of a better appearance than the rest (I passed two more villages in this day's march) are built and roofed with the same materials, as are also the Government warehouses. I saw many European plants to-day. Cherry-trees were numerous. I observed a good deal of honeysuckle and some hips and haws, and one of the guides brought me a large handful of bilberries. I saw, however, no ice; and indeed I had many opportunities of observing, that high as we had climbed in the course of the day, we were not so high as when on the top of Gaughur. Nothing could be finer than the climate. Though the sun was hot before we got to our station, the distance being seven coss, it was not unpleasant at any time of the day; nor, though in the shade it was certainly cold and chilly, was it more so than is usually felt in England in the finest part of October. My Sepoys, who, as all water-drinkers are, are critics in the beverage, praised exceedingly the purity and lightness of the little streams which gushed across the road. Mr. Boulderson, indeed, had told me that the Khasyas pride themselves much on their springs, and have been known to refuse advantageous situations in the plain, saying, "How can we get good water there?" This, however, does not seem to militate against their annual emigration. All the villages which we passed were empty, the people having gone to Bamoury for the winter. One or two cottages, however, were still inhabited round the Company's post, the master of one of which, who, though dressed like a common Khasya peasant, said he was the Zemindar of the district, brought me some beautiful lemons and some young potatoes, both the produce of his garden. Potatoes are much liked by the mountaineers, and are becoming very common. They are, perhaps, among the most valuable presents which they are likely to receive from their new masters. My attention here, as elsewhere, is never quite withdrawn from missionary inquiries, but in these annual emigrations I see a great hindrance to their reception of the Gospel or the educa tion of their children. At Almorah, however, and in the other towns, the case is, in some respects, different. The Company's post is a small bungalow, with a still smaller guard-room, which latter could only accommodate the Naitch and his party whom we found in possession, while the stony soil all around would not admit of our pitching the tents. The soldiers and servants were, therefore, obliged to sleep in the open air. He During the afternoon, and soon after I had finished my early dinner, a very fine cheerful old man, with staff and wallet, walked up and took his place by one of the fires. He announced himself as a pilgrim to Bhadrinâth, and said he had previously visited a holy place in Lahore, whose name I could not make out, and was last returned from Juggernâth and Calcutta, whence he had intended to visit the Burman territories, but was prevented by the war. He was a native of Oude, but hoped, he said, before he fixed himself again at home, to see Bombay and Poonah. I asked him what made him undertake such long journeys? said he had had a good and affectionate son, a havildar in the Company's service, who always sent him money, and had once or twice come to see him. Two years back he died, and left him sixteen gold mohurs, but since that time, he said, he could settle to nothing, and at length he had determined to go to all the most holy spots- he had heard of, and travel over the world till his melancholy legacy was exhausted. I told him I would pay the goomashta for his dinner that day, on which he thanked me, and said "so many great men had shown him the same kindness, that he was not yet in want, and had never been obliged to ask for anything." He was very curious to know who I was, with so many guards and servants in such a place; and the name of" Lord Padre" was, as usual, a great puzzle to him. He gave a very copious account of his travels, the greater part of which I understood pretty well, and he was much pleased by the interest which I took in his adventures. He remarked that Hindostan was the finest country and the most plentiful which he | had seen. Next to that he spoke well of Sinde, where he said things were still cheaper, but the water not so good. Lahore, Bengal, and Orissa, none of them were favourites, nor did he speak well of Kemaoon. It might for all he knew, he said, be healthy, but what was that to him, who was never ill anywhere, so he could get bread and water? There was something flighty in his manner, but on the whole he was a fine old pilgrim, and one well suited to 66 Repay with many a tale the nightly bed." A nightly bed, indeed, I had not to offer him, but he had as comfortable a berth by the fire as the Sepoys could make him, and I heard his loud cheerful voice telling stories after his mess of rice and ghee, till I myself dropped asleep. CHAPTER XVIII. ALMORAH TO MEERUT. Trees used as Gallows-Bhooteahs-Kemaoon subiect to Earthquakes-Havelbagh-Vegetation in Kemaoon-Animals and Birds-Wild Dog-Visits from Vakeel and Pundit-Cold at Pruny-Poverty of Ghurwali-Koosilla River--Description of Okul Doonga-Pillibheet Rice-Emetic Property of Wild Tea-Ghorkha Boy-Manner of catching Fish-Cashipoor -Women Spinning-White Buffalo-Sugar Mill--Imperial Tree-Moradabad-Making Ice -Yogis and Tigers-Canes set on fire by Friction-Party of supposed Bheels-Thugs. tine. It struck me forcibly to find the same dog-like and amiable qualities in these neglected animals, as in their more fortunate brethren of Europe. The dog had, before this, been rather a favourite with my party, and this will, I think, establish him in their good graces. We had two more toilsome ascents, and another deep and black ford to pass before we reached the foot of the hill of Almorah. The town is approached by a very long and steep zigzag road, which a few resolute men might defend against an army. On NOVEMBER 27.-As we had to climb the eastern side of so steep a hill as that on which Almorah stands, I conceived that the sun might possibly be troublesome, and started a little earlier than I had done the two preceding days; we descended into a valley with a very rapid river, the Koosilla, running through it, over a rugged and stony bottom. The abutments of a bridge which had, as usual, lost its arch, and had only its slack rope, pointed out the place where we were to cross by rather a difficult ford. One of my followers, a poor Pariah dog, who had come with us all the way from Ba-seeing the impenetrable nature of this reilly for the sake of the scraps which I had ordered the cook to give him, and, by the sort of instinct which most dogs possess, always attached himself to me as the head of the party, was so alarmed at the blackness and roaring of the water, that he sate down on the brink and howled pitifully when he saw me going over. When he found it was a hopeless case, however, he mustered courage and followed. But, on reaching the other side, a new distress awaited him. One of my faithful Sepoys had lagged behind as well as himself; and when he found the usual number of my party not complete, he ran back to the brow of the hill and howled, then hurried after me as if afraid of being himself left behind, then back again to summon the loiterer, till the man came up, and he apprehended that all was going on in its usual rou whole country, one cannot help wondering how it ever should have been conquered. Its first subjection, however, by the Ghorkhas was in conse quence of a disputed succession, and forwarded by the dissensions of the people themselves. Its recent conquest by the British was aided by the goodwill of all the natives, whom the cruelty of their masters had disposed to take part with any invader. The Khasyas in every village lent their help, not only as guides, but in dragging our guns up the hills, and giving every other assistance which they could supply. I was met by Mr. Traill about half a mile from the town, mounted on a little pony like that which he had sent me. We rode together under a spreading toon-tree, so like an ash that I at first mistook it for one. There are four | of these trees in the four approaches to height is 22,300 feet. The peak which Nundidevi, the highest peak in the world, is stated to be no less than 25,689 feet above the sea, and 4000 feet and upwards higher than Chimborazo. Bhadrinath and Kedarnath are merely two ends of the same mountain; its Beyond them is the Chinese frontier, strictly guarded by the jealous care of that government. Mr. Moorcroft did, indeed, pass it some years ago, and was kindly received by one of the provincial governors; but the poor man was thrown into prison, and died there, as a punishment for his hospitality, and, since, nobody has been allowed to go beyond the frontier village. When Mr. Traill visited it they showed him great respect and attention; brought him firewood, milk, eggs, earthen vessels, and would receive no payment, but, on his mounting his horse to push on a little further, he was immediately surrounded and brought back, though in the civilest manner, by the Tartar horsemen, who pleaded the positive orders of the emperor. To the north, however, the small independent Tartar kingdom of Ladak has shown itself exceedingly hospitable and friendly. Mr. Moorcroft, when he was there, was treated with unbounded kindness and confidence, and their khân has since sent a formal offer, which I am sorry was declined, of his allegiance to the British Government. during the Ghorkha government. They are now fully tolerated and protected, but their numbers are very small. Government, on the conquest of Almorah, very liberally built a number of small bungalows in airy situations round it, for the accommodation, gratis, of any of their civil or military servants, who might come to reside here for their health. They are small low cottages of stone, with slated roofs, and look extremely like the sea-bathing cottages on the Welsh coast, having thick walls, small windows, low rooms, and all the other peculiarities (most different from the generality of Anglo-Indian houses) which suit a boisterous and cold climate. Yet, in summer, the heat is considerable, and the valleys very far from wholesome, being, some of them indeed, only a shade better than Tandah, and the rest of the Terrai. On the hilltops, however, there is always a fine breeze, and, even in May and June, the nights are chilly. There is another reason why the To return from this digression. I found Almorah a small but very curious and interesting town. It chiefly consists of one long street, running along the ridge of the mountain from the fort westward to a smaller blockhouse eastward, with scattered bunga-bungalows of this country are built lows, chiefly inhabited by Europeans, to the right and left hand on the descent of the hill. The main street has a gate at each end, and, on a small scale, put me in mind of Chester. The houses all stand on a lower story of stone, open to the street, with strong square pillars, where the shops are, looking like some of the rows. Above the buildings are of timber, exactly like those of Chester, in one, or sometimes two very low stories, and surmounted by a sloping roof of heavy grey slate, on which many of the inhabitants pile up their hay in small stacks for winter consumption. The town is very neat; the street has a natural pavement of slaty rock, which is kept beautifully clean the stone part of the houses is well whitewashed, and adorned with queer little paintings; and the tradesmen are not only a fairer but a much more respectable-looking race than I had expected to see, from the filth and poverty of the agricultural Khasyas. : We passed two or three little old pagodas and tanks, as well as a Mussulman burial-ground. The Mussulmans were treated with great rigour here low. Kemaoon is extremely subject to earthquakes; scarcely a year passes without a shake or two, and though all have been slight since the English came, it would not be wise to build upper-roomed houses, unless, like the natives, they made the superstructure of timber. In the best of these bungalows I found Mr. Adams, who received me most hospitably. He introduced me to Sir Robert Colquhoun, the commandant of the local troops of Kemaoon, who invited me to accompany Mr. Adams and himself, on Monday, to his house at Havelbagh, where the native lines are, and where Mr. Adams is residing at present, as being a milder climate than that of Almorah. Mr. Adams had a party to dine in the evening, and I found that almost all the civil and military officers here were Scotch. Sunday, November 28.-This day I enjoyed the gratification of being the first Protestant minister who had preached and administered the Sacraments in so remote, yet so celebrated a region. I had a very respectable congregation of, I believe, all the Christian |