33 m. Lhaksar junc. sta. [A branch line from here runs N. 16 m. to Hardwar, giving access to Dera Dun and the hill-stations of Mussoorie, Landour, and Chakrata (see Rte. 17).] 73 m. Nasina sta. (R.) 120 m. Moradabad sta. ✡ lies at the S.E. of the city,m. S. of the junction with the Meerut road. The D.B. is nearly 1 m. due N. of the railway station. But at the railway station are Rooms which perhaps a traveller may be allowed to occupy. Moradabad (pop. 73,400) is on the right bank of the Ramganga river. Beyond the jail, to N.W. of town, are the Cantonments and civil station. is also an excellent Meteorological | gunners of the N. Artillery showed Observatory. from the first unmistakable signs of an inclination to revolt. On the 18th of May a regiment from Meerut, which had mutinied, came down upon Moradabad, and arrived at the Gangan Bridge. They had with them a considerable treasure, which they had carried off from Zafarnagar. Mr. Wilson moved against them with a detachment of the 29th, under two excellent officers, Captain Faddy and Lieut. Clifford, and a body of Irreg. Horse. He surprised the 20th asleep, and eight or ten of them were seized, one shot dead by a trooper, and the treasure captured. Next day the mutineers of the 20th entered Moradabad, when one was shot dead by a Sikh Sepoy of the 29th, and four were made prisoners. The slain man was a relative of one of the 29th, who prevailed on a number of his comrades to go to the jail and get his body, and also to rescue the military prisoners. The guard at the jail fraternised with these men, and all the prisoners in the jail were released, but the Adjutant of the 29th and Wilson with a few Sepoys and a few Irregulars captured 150 of the prisoners, and lodged them again in the jail. In this manner Wilson continued to make use of the 29th, though in a dangerous mood, and he even disarmed two companies of Sappers who marched in from Roorkee and had mutinied. But when the news of the mutiny at Bareilly arrived it became impossible to restrain the Sepoys any longer, and Wilson had to make over the treasure to them, and escape with the other civilians and their wives to Meerut. St. Paul's Church is W. of the D.B. Aboutm. N. of the railway sta. is the American Church, built by their Methodist Mission in 1874. It is used as a school, except during hours of service. The Mission has also a vernacular school in the city. The office of the Tahsildar, on the opposite side of the road, is a handsome white building. 1 m. from this church is the Zil'a School, on the banks of the Ramganga, which is here crossed by a bridge of boats. To the W. of the school is the Badshai Musjid. The date is in the reign of Shah Jehan, 1628-58 A.D. The principal mosque, to the S. of the school, is a plain large building, with an inscription in the central alcove inside in Persian. The date corresponds to 1636 A.D. N. of the school are the ruins of Rustam Khan's fort, the walls of which are of burnt brick, and are from 4 to 6 ft. thick; it is quite close to the Ramganga. A large well here is called the Mint Well, because it supplied water to the Mint in which Rustam Khan coined his money. What occurred at Moradabad during the Mutiny has been told by Kaye in his Sepoy War, vol. iii. p. 252. The 29th B.N.I., posted at this station, were for some time kept steady by Mr. Cracroft Wilson, the Judge, but the 147 m. Chandausi junc. sta. (R). [A branch line from here runs S.W. 60 m. to Aligarh on the E. I. Rly. near Dhanasi sta., 19 m. from Chandausi. Good snipe and duck shooting may be had; no accommodation.] 191 m. Bareilly junc. sta.✶ (R). [From here the Rohilcund and Kamaon Railway runs N. to 66 m. Kathgodam, under Naini Tal, and 30 m. to Philibheet, D.B. (see Rte. 16A).] Bareilly was the chief city of Rohil cund, and long had a bad name for disaffection. In 1816 an insurrection broke out, in consequence of the imposition of a new tax on houses. A Mufti, named Muhammad Aiwaz, a man of great age and reputed sanctity, encouraged the popular excitement. He was soon joined by 5000 armed men. They attacked the troops, but after a sharp conflict were dispersed, with the loss of several hundred men killed and wounded. Some remembrance of this affair, no doubt, lingered amongst the pop. of Bareilly when the news of the outbreak of 1857 at Meerut and Delhi arrived. There was a small fort to the S. of the city, and one-sixth of a mile to the E. of the railway station, which had been built by Government for a citadel, after the insurrection of 1816. It was quadrangular, with a good ditch and two bastions projecting from opposite angles, but nothing seems to have been done to place it in a state of defence. In cantonments there were native troops only. There was a large cluster of civilians, and altogether there were nearly 100 Christians, exclusive of women and children. On the 31st May the outbreak took place. Parties of the 68th set fire to the English houses, they then shot down every white man they met. Major Pearson and four other officers of the 18th escaped from the ground, but were killed by the villagers of Rampatti. The Commissioner, Mr. Alexander, escaped to Naini Tal, as did Mr. Guthrie, the Collector and Magistrate; and the Joint Magistrates, Mr. Parley and Mr. Currie. The Judges, Mr. D. Robertson, Mr. Raikes, and also Dr. Hay and Mr. Orr, were all killed. Thus the higher civilians, with several subordinates, were slain, as were many merchants and traders, with their wives and children. Khan Bahadur Khan, a descendant of Hafiz Rahmat Khan, the famous Rohilla chief, was proclaimed viceroy, and he ordered all Christians to be killed. Mr. Handsborough, the Superintendent of the Jail, who had defended himself for a full day, was then brought to the Nawab and cut to pieces. 235 m. Shahjahanpur sta.✶ (R.) Chief town of a district with civil sta. and military cantonment. Pop. 78,000. The station contains an English church and three churches for native converts belonging to the American Methodist Mission, which also supports several schools. The principal local manufacture is sugar. The Rosa sugar factory and rum distillery is situated on the Garra river a few m. from the city, with which it is connected by railway. 274 m. Hardoi sta. (R.), D.B. 337 m. LUCKNOW junc. sta. (R.) [Branch S. W. to Cawnpore.] The city covers 36 sq.m., and has a pop. of 272,600 including the cantonments, of whom three-fifths are Hindus. It is the largest city in the Indian Empire after Calcutta, Madras, and Bombay. It is the capital of Oudh, a province with an area of 26,131 sq. m., and has been so since Asafu-daulah in 1775 moved the seat of Government to it. It is situated on the right bank of the Goomti, but there are suburbs on the left bank. The deepest interest attaches to the ruined Residency and its crowded cemetery, and to every stage of its defence by a handful of men against a large army. No Englishman can fail to be moved by the memories of the deeds done in Lucknow when Henry Lawrence, Havelock, Outram, and Colin Campbell commanded, and brave men served with devotion and gave their lives ungrudgingly. The traveller must not expect to find in the capital of Oudh the beautiful architecture of Northern or Western India, or the elaborate carvings of the South. The buildings of Lucknow are poor in design and execution, but are described to assist the visitor who has time to devote to them. Should he be hurried he must remember that a day spent in Agra, Delhi, or Ahmedabad will disclose to him more to admire than a month in Lucknow. On the rt. bank of the Goomti is the Chatr Manzil Palace (see below). It used to be the city Residency,-no* be confounded with the cante Residency, S. of the city, on the of Haidar's or Ghaziu d'-din's Canal, | a part of the 32d Foot, with guns, had and here described. been brought into the Residency from the cantonments (see Kaye, vol. iii. p. 437), and with them came great numbers of Englishwomen and children. The Treasury contained over 60 lakhs of rupees. A guard of Sepoys had been in charge, but a European guard was now substituted. The defences of the Residency and its buildings, beginning from the Baillie Guard on the E. and proceeding to the N., were, 1st, Alexander's Battery; 2d, Water Gate Battery; 3d, Redan Battery; 4th, a palisade; and then turning S., the Innis Garrison, the Bhusa Guard, Ommaney's Battery, the Gubbins's Garrison, and Gubbins's Battery, the Sikh Square; and turning to the E., the Cawnpore Battery, Thomas's Battery, Anderson's Garrison, Post Office Garrison, Judicial Garrison, Sago's Guard, and Financial Garrison. The gateway of the Baillie Guard was an ordinary gateway, commanded by Lieut. Aitken. On entering through it, Dr. Fayrer's house will be seen to the left, 50 ft. back. Before visiting the Residency, the traveller should on no account fail to stop at the Ajaib Ghar Museum, in order to study the Model of the Residency made by Chaplain Moore. By so doing he will start with a far better grasp of the relative positions of the buildings and of the scenes of the memorable siege than he would otherwise have. It represents the Residency before the clearances were made. It shows the great disadvantages under which the besieged fought, as the enemy were close to them all round, and under cover. But this model is not the only attraction to the Museum ; | it also contains an extremely interesting collection of Buddhist sculptures and fragments of architecture from Muttra and other places which have been brought together here. Amongst them is one fragment, unearthed in 1891 by Dr. A. Führer, which possesses very considerable archæological interest. It is a torana bearing a relief representing a stupa worshipped by Centaurs and Harpies, or, as the Hindus would say, Kinnaras, and Garudas or Suparnas. Centaurs have been found on the Buddhist sculptures at Bharhut and Gaya, while Muttra has furnished the Silenus groups and Hercules strangling the Nemean lion. This find is a further addition to the monuments which prove the influence of Hellenistic art among the Hindus of the last centuries preceding our era. The Residency.-This place and its environs demand the first attention of the traveller. The Residency itself, with its various dependencies, such as the Baillie Guard, the Barracks, the Hospital, etc., is 2150 ft. long from N.W. to S.E., and 1200 ft. broad from E. to W., that is, from the Baillie Guard to Gubbins' Battery. The first thing the traveller will see on his visit to the Residency is an Obelisk, erected by Lord Northbrook, in front of the Baillie Guard, with an inscription in memory of the native officers and Sepoys who died near this spot nobly performing their duty. On the evening of the 17th of May At In a room in this house Sir Henry Lawrence died, and a written notice calls attention to the fact. 100 ft. from the Baillie Guard is a small pillar inscribed "Financial Post," and this is the first of a series of such pillars which surround the Residency, and mark the spots where the different detachments of the garrison were posted. The ground to the W. of this pillar rises in mounds, and a little way to the S.E. of this pillar is another with Sago's Post"; then comes "Germon's Post." At the top of the slope, and to the rear of Germon's, was "Residency Post." To the N. is "Post Office Post," and in line with Germon's is "Anderson's Garrison.' To the W. of Anderson's, in the same line, is the Cawnpore Battery pillar. This was the most dangerous post of all. The mutineers had rifles fixed in rests in the house opposite, and swept the road that led through the Residency enclosure here. To show one's self in that road was certain death. At 50 ft. to the N.W.is Duprat's pillar. Duprat was a gallant Frenchman, who had served in the French army. On W. side of |