In the cemetery at Shah Jehangir, so-called from a Fakir of that name, are the tombs of those who fell in the battle. Beyond to the E. are two mosques, one of which is rather remarkable. 71 m. Guzerat sta. This is the chief | The British Infantry then advanced, town and administrative headquarters deployed, and carried the position. of a district of the same name. The Next day General Gilbert, with town (19,000 inhab.) stands on the 12,000 men, pursued the enemy, and ancient site of 2 earlier cities. The at Rawal Pindi received the submission second, according to General Cunning- of the entire Sikh army. Thus ended ham, was destroyed in 1303 A.D. Two the second Sikh war. centuries after this Sher Shah was in possession of the country, and either he or Akbar founded the present town. Akbar's fort stands in the centre of the town. It was first garrisoned by Gujars, and took the name of Guzerat Akbarabad. Akbar's administrative records are still preserved in the families of the hereditary registrars. In 1741 the Ghakkars established themselves at Guzerat, and in 1765 the Sikhs acquired the country. The Civil | Station, in which is the D.B., lies to the N. During the reign of Shah Jehan, Guzerat became the residence of a famous saint, Pir Shah Daulah, who adorned it with numerous buildings. The Battle-field.-The decisive battle of Guzerat was fought on the 21st of February 1849. The village of Kalra is 2 m. from the D. B. It was the key of the Sikh position. It is a village of 70 houses in a flat plain, where there are no natural advantages to assist an army in maintaining its position. Thence the Sikhs retreated round the W. and N. sides of the town of Guzerat. Lord Gough's camp on the 18th and 19th of February was 9 m. to the S. of Guzerat, near the Chenab river. Thence he advanced with seven brigades of infantry and a body of cavalry on each flank. The advance began at 7 A. M. The artillery went to the front and poured their fire on the Sikh army, which was drawn up a little to the N. of Kalra, and consisted of six brigades of infantry, with 59 guns, and four great bodies of Sikh cavalry, with 4000 Afghan horse (whereas the English army consisted of 25,000 and nearly 100 guns). The heavy English guns opened on the Sikhs at 1000 yds. and crushed their lighter metal. As the Sikh fire ceased, the English field batteries were constantly pushed forward. By 11.30 A.M. most of the Sikh guns had been withdrawn, dismounted, or abandoned. A 83 m. Lala Musa junc. sta. (R.) branch line runs W. on the left bank of the Jhelum river to Kundian junc. on the Sind-Saugar Rly. (Rte. 14). A traveller having time at his disposal can from this line visit the battle-field of Chilianwala, the salt-mines near Pind Dadan Khan, and the fountain and temples at Katas. 103 m. Jhelum sta. is a modern municipal town, and the administrative headquarters of a district of the same name, but appears to have been built on an ancient site. The Civil lines and Cantonment lie 1 m. E. and W. of the town respectively. Many ancient pillars have been dug up near the rly. sta., and amongst them one with a human face in the Greek style, which is now in the Lahore Museum. One is to be seen in the railway engineer's compound. [Rotas is 11 m. N.W. of Jhelum. Carriage-road to the Kahan river, 8 m., and after that cart track along the river, and below barren hills 200 ft. high a bridle-path. This famous fort stands on a hill overlooking the gorge of the Kahan river. Its walls extend for 3 m., in places from 30 to 40 ft. thick, and enclose about 260 acres. was built by Sher Shah as a check on the Ghakkar tribes. It The fort is partly hidden by the hills, stands high (130 ft.) above the ravine, and it is quite possible to miss the gateway, which is to the left of the river. The entrance, up a steep path, is by the Khawas Khan Gate, on the N.E. of the hill. The Suhali Gate Mr. Fergusson says: "It is, indeed, one of the most marked characteristics of these Gandhara topes that none of them possess, or ever seem to have possessed, any trace of an independent rail; but all have an ornamental belt of pilasters, joined generally by arches simulating the original rail. This can hardly be an early architectural form, and leads to the suspicion that, in spite of their deposits, their outward casing may be very much more modern than the coins they contain." (where is the D.B.) is on the S. W., | the detached rail of the older Indian and is reached through the town, with monuments. a deep fissure on the lt., and on the rt. an inner wall with a lofty gateway, called after Shah Chand Wali. Within this stand the ruins of Man Sing's palace, built after he reduced Kabul. The S. W. corner consists of a lofty barahdari, in which is a stone finely carved with figures of birds, etc. The S.E. corner is 150 ft. off, and consists of a smaller barahdari, about 25 ft. high. The wall between the two is gone. There were twelve gates to the fort, but they are now nearly all in ruins. The Shisha Gate (an inner gate) was so called from the Harim's Hall of Mirrors, which adjoined it.] The circular gallery which runs round the great stupa is 6 ft. 2 in. from the ground, and 10 ft. broad. hemisphere are 4 ft. high. The building The row of pilasters that go round the made of round rough stones, a foot in diameter, and the mortar is of an inferior kind. The whole was faced 157 m. Labani sta. (a flag-station only), is the nearest point to Manik-is yala Tope, which is 2 m. distant.1 with smooth stones. The opening or tunnel made by Gen. Ventura is on the E. side, facing the present path to Manikyala. The stones were not disturbed, but the tunnel was dug under them. At 2 m. to the N. of Ventura's tope is Court's tope. Here the earth is of a [Manikyala was first noticed by Mountstuart Elphinstone in 1815, and afterwards thoroughly explored by Gen. Ventura in 1830. In 1834 the stupa was explored by Gen. Court, and 30 years after by Gen. Cunningham. The date is uncertain. There are coins taken from it of Kanerke and Hoerke, which date from the beginning of the bright red colour, and therefore Christian era, but with them was found Cunningham identifies this stupa with a coin of Yaso Varmma, who reigned that mentioned by Hiouen Thsang as not earlier than 720 A.D., and many "the stupa of the body-offering;' silver Sassano - Arabian coins of the while at 1000 ft. to the S. of it is Hiouen same period. Cunningham thinks that Thsang's "stupa of the blood-offering," the stupa may have been originally which that pilgrim ignorantly attribuilt by Hoerke, who deposited coins buted to its being stained with the of his own reign and of his predecessor blood of Buddha, who, according to a Kanerke, and that the stupa having be- curious legend, is said to have offered come ruinous was rebuilt in its present his body to appease the hunger of seven massive form by Yaso-Varmma, who re- tiger cubs. The stupa of the bodydeposited the relic caskets with the addi- offering was opened by Gen. Court, tion of a gold coin of himself and several who found in a stone niche, covered contemporary coins of Arab governors. by a large inscribed slab, three cylindriThe dome of the stupa is an exact cal caskets of copper, silver, and gold, hemisphere, 127 ft. in diameter. The each containing coins of the same metal; outer circle measures 500 ft. in circum-four gold coins of Kanerke were found ference, and is ascended by four flights of steps, one in each face, leading to a procession path 16 ft. in width, ornamented both above and below by a range of dwarf pilasters, representing 1 Cunningham's Arch. Rep. vol. ii. p. 152; Fergusson's Hist. of Arch.; James Prinsep's Journal, vol. iii. in the gold box; in the silver box were The inscription has been deciphered in the 14th century. The Church is and translated by Mr. Dowson, who about 200 yds. from the D.B., and here made out the date to be the eighteenth is Bishop Milman's tomb. The Fort is year of Kanishka, and that it was the a little less than 1 m. from the D.B. record of the monastery of the Huta- to the S.S.E. It is a strong place Murta, or "body oblation," including, though somewhat commanded by hills of course, the stupa in which the to S. E. The town has nothing very inscription was found. remarkable in it. The Public Garden here is Cunningham ran trenches across the mound, which now represents the monastery, and brought to light the outer walls and cells of the monks, forming a square of 160 ft. In the middle were three small rooms 11 ft. sq., which were probably shrines for statues. Rather more than 1 m. due S. of Court's tope, is the mound of Sonala Pind, which stands on the highest and most conspicuous of all the sandstone ridges, and is thickly covered with Mohammedan tombs. This mound is 118 ft. long, 100 ft. broad, and 13 ft. high. About 400 yds. to the S.E. is a sandstone ridge, called Pari-ki-deri. It is covered with Moslem tombs, where Cunningham found the walls of a monastery; and in the centre of the interior quadrangle he found the basement of a temple 30 ft. sq. park of 40 acres, with a low forest, well preserved. General Cunningham, Arch. Rep. vol. ii. p. 152, says that, in excavations near the Jail, amongst other interesting discoveries was that of an oil-lamp of classical shape with an Aryan inscription, said to be now in the British Museum, and a cup of mottled sienna-coloured steatite. Every year after rain coins are found on the site of the present cantonment. The ground is still thickly covered with broken pottery, among which fragments of metal ornaments are occasionally discovered. Several didrachms of Hippostratus and Azas and a didrachm of Apollodorus have been picked up on the Old Parade-ground. [Rawal Pindi is the starting-place for the Hill-station of Murree (or Marree). * It is 39 m. by a carriage-road,―a journey of 5 hours. It is the great Numerous other excavations have been undertaken, but with little result. The distance of the stupa of Manik-northern sanitarium of the Panjab, and yala from Labani is 2 m. The road the summer resort of the General in leads for a few hundred yds. along the command at Rawal Pindi. The site was Grand Trunk Road, and then turns N. selected in 1850, and in 1853 barracks over rough ground. There is a small for troops were erected. The houses village called Kalyal, with about 50 are built on the summit and sides of inhabitants, 3500 ft. to the S. by W. an irregular ridge, and command magof the larger village of Manikyala, nificent views over forest-clad hills which has about 1000 inhabitants.] into deep valleys, studded with villages and cultivated fields, with the snowcovered peaks of Cashmere in the background. The climate is well adapted for Englishmen, the lowest recorded temperature being 21°; the highest, 96°. 174 m. Rawal Pindi Cantonment junc. sta. (R.) (a branch line runs W. to Khusalgarh on the Indus river, 78 m.), D.B. This is a modern municipal city, and headquarters of a district. It is also one of the largest military stations in India. The force consists of a R.H.A., 2 bat. R.A., 1 reg. Cav., 1 reg. Inf., 1 reg. B. Cav., 2 reg. N.I. The city itself has a pop. of 73,460, the majority of whom are Mohammedans. It received its name from Jhanda Khan, a Ghakkar chief, who restored the town of Fatehpur Baori, which had fallen to decay during an invasion of the Moguls [India] The stationary pop. is only about 3000, but in the height of the season it rises to 14,000 or 15,000. The station is 7507 ft. above the sea-level. The loftiest peaks behind the sanitarium attain a height of 8000 ft. There is very little game now to be found in the hills. Situated at convenient sites along the ridge in the direction of Abbotabad are several "Hutted Camps" for the British troops in summer.] P Rawal Pindi is also the starting- | place for Cashmere by Murree and the Jhelum Valley. A tonga-road runs all the way to Sirinagar; this is the best route into the country (see p. 206). Leaving Rawal Pindi by rail from Attock, Margala is passed 3 m. before reaching the station of Kala ke Sarai. On an eminence to the S. is the monument of General John Nicholson : "Erected by friends, British and native, to the memory of Brig.-Gen. John Nicholson, C. B., who, after taking a hero's part in four great wars, fell mortally wounded, in leading to victory the main column of assault at the great siege of Delhi, and died 22d September 1857, aged 34." 194 m. Kala ke Sarai sta., D.B. At 6 m. from this place is the beautiful village of Wah. 203 m. Hasan Abdal sta., D.B., famous for the so-called Lalla Rookh's tomb, which is close by; also on account of the spring of Babi Wali, or as the Sikhs call him, Panja Sahib. This is one of those attractive places to which each religion in succession has attached its legends, and it has been appropriated in turn by Buddhist, Brahman, Mohammedan, and Sikh. The shrine of this saint is on the peak of a lofty and precipitous hill, at the N.W. foot of which numerous springs of limpid water gush out of the ground and form a rill which falls into the Wah rivulet, m. to the W. of Hasan Abdal. At the E. entrance into the town on the right hand, aboutm. from the D.B., is the tomb of one of Akbar's wives, which the ignorant people say is that of Nur Jehan. The road to it passes through roughly paved streets, and then leads down to a clear rapid brook, crossed by stepping-stones, a few yds. beyond a Sikh temple, near a beautiful pool of water, canopied with mulberry and pipul trees of large size, and full of mahsir, some of them as big as a 20 lb. salmon. Walk now 250 yds. along the stream, past some ruins of the time of Jehangir, and past another pool to the Tomb, which is very plain, and stands in a garden surrounded by a wall, with four slim towers, one at each corner: the enclosure is well filled with trees, amongst which is a cypress more than 50 ft. high. From Hasan Abdal branches off the road to Abbotabad, D.B., a pretty hill-station and headquarters of the Frontier Force Command. It is named from a Lieut. James Abbot, who reduced the district to order in 1868. 232 m. Attock Bridge sta. (or Attak), D.B., 14 m. below the town and Fort. Attock has seen the passage of every conqueror who has invaded India from the N. W. from the time of Alexander the Great downwards; but independent of historical interest, the place is inviting to the traveller as being one of the most picturesque in India. It is a small town and fortress of quarters of a subdistrict of the same some military importance, and headname (pop. 2000). The Fort, situated on a commanding height, overhanging the E. bank of the Indus, and a little to the S. of the point where it receives the Kabul river, is very extensive and has a most imposing appearance. It was built by the Emperor Akbar in 1583, who also established the ferry which it commands. Ranjit Sing occupied the place in 1813, and it remained in the hands of the Sikhs till the British conquest of 1849. It is now held by a small European detachment. Leave can be obtained to walk round the ramparts: this is well worth doing on account of the picturesque views to be obtained. The Indus is crossed here by a very fine Iron Railway Girder Bridge, which was difficult to construct owing to the rapidity of the current and the height above the water. The rails are on the top of the girders, and there is a passage for road-traffic below. Each end is protected by a fortified gate. The river has been known to rise 90 ft. in flood near the Fort, where the channel becomes very narrow. To the N. of the Fort and on the S. side of a small ravine, overlooking the united river, at the height of 300 ft., is an old sarai, converted into the artillery officers' mess-room. Another ravine to the S. divides the sarai from the higher hill, on which is |