p. 600: "The Jumma Musjid at Delhi is not unlike the Moti Musjid in the Agra Fort in plan, though built on a very much larger scale, and adorned with two noble minarets, which are wanting in the Agra example; while from the somewhat capricious admixture of red sandstone with white marble it is far from possessing the same elegance and purity of effect. It is, however, one of the few mosques, either in India or elsewhere, that is designed to produce a pleasing effect externally. It is raised on a lofty basement, and its three gateways, combined with the four angle towers and the frontispiece and domes of the mosque itself, make up a design where all the parts are pleasingly subordinated to one another, but at the same time produce a whole of great variety and elegance. Its principal gateway cannot be compared with that at Fatehpur-Sikri (near Agra), but it is a noble portal, and from its smaller dimensions more in harmony with the objects by which it is surrounded." The gateways are surmounted with galleries, on the roof of which are fifteen marble domes, with spires tipped with gold. Above these are six fluted marble minarets, with open arched chambers at the top, and surmounted with gilt pinnacles. These three noble gateways are approached by grand Hights of steps, unrivalled in Delhi or elsewhere, adding materially to the grandeur of the whole effect.

The doors are massive and overlaid with brass arabesques half an inch thick, giving access to a stately quadrangle, 325 ft. square, in the centre of which are a marble basin and fountain. Round three sides of the quadrangle runs an open sandstone cloister, 15 ft. wide, with pillars of the same material. The mosque proper is 201 ft. long and 120 ft. broad. The inscription gives the date in Arabic as 1658 A.D., the year in which Aurangzib deposed his father, Shah Jehan.

Five thousand workmen were employed for six years in the construction of this mosque. At the N.E. corner is a pavilion in which are placed relics of Mohammed. The traveller must not

here. There is a Koran written in Kufik of the time of 'Ali, that is in the 7th century of our era; one written by the Imam Husain, very clear and well preserved; one written by the Imam Hasan, the pages of which are much crumpled at the beginning; the Kafshi-Mubarak or "Prophet's Slipper," filled with jasmine; the Kadmu'l Mubarak, "Footprint of the Prophet " imprinted on a stone; Mui-i-Mubarak, a hair of the Prophet's moustaches; and part of the canopy over the Prophet's tomb. The two minarets rise to the height of 130 ft. They contain staircases, and the ascent to the top is easy. At the top are small pavilions, from which the whole city can be viewed.

Chandni Chauk, which is the principal street of the city, runs from E. to W. in almost a direct line from the Lahore Gate of the Fort to the Lahore Gate in the W. wall of the city. It is lined with fine trees, and has a covered aqueduct running along the middle. The chief articles of native manufacture are jewellery and embroidery in gold and silver, and the best shops are in this street. In the centre of the Chandni Chauk is the Northbrook Fountain. The Mosque of Roshanudaulah, also called the Sonala or "Golden Mosque," from its three gilt domes, is close to this fountain. It was built in Muhammad Shah's reign, by Roshanu-daulah Zafar Khan in 1721 A. D. It is a small but beautiful building, and on it Nadir Shah sat during the massacre at Delhi. The Kotwali is next to it, and it was here that Hodson exposed the bodies of the Delhi Princes whom he had killed. At the W. end of the Chandni Chauk is the Fatehpúri Mosque. It was built in 1650 A.D. by Fatehpúri Begam, wife of Shah Jehan. It is of red sandstone. There are two minarets 105 ft. high. The Mor (or Queen's) Sarai, in Queen's Road, near the rly. sta., is a modern structure built by the Municipal Committee at a cost of 100,570 rs. for the accommodation of native travellers.

Close by are the Queen's Gardens. They have the Chandni Chauk skirting them to the S., and face the rly. and

sta. on the N. They are laid out with beautiful trees and shrubs of all kinds, and in them stands a huge stone elephant. On the platform upon which it is raised is an inscription stating that it was brought from Gwalior, and set up outside the south gate of his new palace by the Emperor Shah Jehan, 1645 A.D. A legend relates that the two famous Rajput chiefs, Jaimall and Patta, who defended Chitor against Akbar, were represented by stone figures riding on this and another elephant which has been lost. Akbar himself killed Jaimall, and set up the elephants, with the two warriors riding on them, at Agra. Shah Jehan brought them to Delhi. They were mutilated by Aurangzib and lost sight of. The two figures are now in the verandah of the Museum of the Institute, which contains little of interest except portraits of the two Lawrences, Sir R. Montgomery, Nicholson, Lord Metcalfe, Lord Canning, and others-poor pictures, but better than none. The Clock Tower adjoins this building, and stands in the Chandni Chauk. It is of red sandstone, 128 ft. high.

The Kalan Musjid, or Black Mosque, to the S. of the town near the Turkuman Gate is well worthy of a visit as one of the most perfect specimens of the age of Feroz Shah Tughlak, 1386.

On the outside, the building consists of two stories, of which the lower, forming a kind of plinth to the actual place of worship, is 28 ft. high, the total height to the top of the battlements being 66 ft. "The sloping style of the architecture seems peculiarly illustrative of the buildings of that and earlier periods. The sloping pilasters on each side of the main entrance give somewhat of an Egyptian appearance to the front of the building, which is not dissimilar from those of the more ancient remains of Hindu architecture. .. The peculiar construction of the arches and domes, the stones of which

1 The Turkuman Gate has its name from a saint called Shah Turkuman, who was styled the "Sun of Devotees." He died in 638 A.H. = 1240 A.D., in the time of Muizzu-din Bahram Shah. There is a pavement round his tomb, and on the 24th of Rajab a great fair is held here.

are held together by the wonderful adhesive qualities of the lime used in those days, without any keystones, is characteristic of the Mohammedan Indian buildings of the 14th cent.' (Carr Stephen). The walls, which are very thick, have in the upper story a number of openings, filled with red stone screens, now much mutilated. There is a stern look about this sombre unadorned building, the plan of which Bishop Heber says "is exactly that of the original Arabian mosques—a square court surrounded by a cloister and roofed with many small domes of the plainest and most solid construction."

The Jain Temple, to the N. W. of the Jumma Musjid (about end of last cent.) is approached by narrow streets, and stands upon a high walled platform gained by narrow steps. It consists of a small marble court surrounded by a stucco colonnade in front of the temple proper, which rises breast-high above the court and is surmounted by an oblong dome. Within, the ceiling and walls are richly gilded, and are supported by two rows of small marble columns. In the centre of the temple is a pyramidal platform in 3 tiers, upon which rests a small figure of Buddha, seated beneath an elaborate ivory canopy. In the porch, Fergusson draws particular attention to the exquisite device of filling in the back of the struts which support the architrave beneath the dome-characteristic of Jain architecture—with foliated tracery.

The Cambridge Mission to Delhi was sent out from the University in 1876. The members live in community at the Mission House near the United Service Hotel. They work among the natives in connection with the S.P.G. which has an old established station here. The Mission Compound and St. Stephen's Mission Church are close to the railway station. The two Missions conjointly have charge of St. Stephen's College, of a native boys' boarding school with 600 pupils, and several day schools.

The S. P. G. has also a Medical Mis. sion here.

SITES IN CONNECTION WITH THE MUTINY AND SIEGE OF 1857. The Ridge is outside the city about 1 m. to the N. W. The traveller driving there from the rly. sta. will pass the following objects of interest on his way. Near the Post and Telegraph Offices are the 3 Gateways of the Arsenal, which was blown up by Willoughby

Just beyond the Cemetery is Ludlow Castle, a large house which was the residence of Simon Frazer, the murdered Commissioner of Delhi. There are two blocks of masonry in the compound inscribed as follows:

No. 2 Battery, Left,

With armament nine 24-pounders, Major CAMPBELL, R, A., commanding. To breach curtain of Cashmere Bastion.

a fine building.

St. James's Memorial Church, rt., was erected at the sole expense of Colonel Skinner, as recorded in a tablet on left of entrance. Another tablet records that he died at Hansi in 1841, and was buried in this church in 1842. It is a rotunda, with four large porticoes supported by pillars.

In the church are a large number of tablets of unusual interest, some to commemorate regimental losses, some in remembrance of whole families, and others in memory of individuals. It is a sad list; a record of evil times.

Beyond to the E. is the Cashmere Gate, which was blown in on the morning of 14th September, and the site of the breaches close to it through which the storming columns Nos. 1 and 2 passed. On a slab set up by Lord Napier of Magdala, just outside the gate, the event is described.

Just inside the Cashmere Gate was posted the Main Guard at the time of the Delhi Mutiny.

Outside the Cashmere Gate, the Kudsiya Gardens are about 300 yds. to the N.; they are prettily laid out. Near them in the Cemetery, close to the entrance, is the tomb of General Nicholson, one of the greatest heroes of India. "Who led the assault of Delhi, but fell In the hour of victory, Mortally wounded, And died 23d of September 1857. Aged 35 years."

There is a splendid monument to Nicholson in the Panjab, near Rawal Pindi, but this is the place where his body was actually interred. At the end farthest from the entrance is a memorial cross 25 ft. high.

No. 2 Battery, Right,
Armament two 18-pounders and
Seven 8-inch howitzers,

Major EDWARD KAYE, R.A., commanding.

Ludlow Castle was a post of importance in the closing scene of the siege of Delhi, as will be seen from the historical sum mary above. Continuing along the Alipur Road, at some little distance the traveller will pass Metcalfe House on the right, and shortly after will reach the Ridge Road, which commands a fine view. Here is the Flag-staff Battery, a castellated tower, now quite empty.

The Second Picquet is 300 yds. to the S., and 400 yds. farther in the same direction is a mosque, where the Mosque Picquet was stationed. The building is now a picturesque ruin. It is a Pathan mosque, with the remains of the battery in front. 200 yds. to the S. E., is Hindu Rao's House, which is now used as a convalescent hospital for soldiers. It is a large white bungalow. About 200 yds. S. of it is Asoka's Pillar.

Asoka's Pillar.-On the pedestal is a tablet stating that this pillar was originally erected at Meerut, in the 3d century before Christ, by King Asoka. It was removed thence, and set up in the Kushk Shikar Palace, near this, by the Emperor Feroz Shah, 1356 A.D.; thrown down and broken into five pieces by the explosion of a powder magazine in 1713-19. It was removed and set up in this place by the British Government 1867 (see vol. v. of the Arch. Rep.) There are two of Asoka's pillars at Delhi, this one and another standing on the top of a building in Feroz Shah's Kotila, in Ferozabad (see below). Both of these pillars were brought to Delhi by Feroz Shah. The