Capture of Baron Stackelberg by Robbers in the Gulf of Volo---Measures taken for his Release

and their Success---Manners of these Robbers---Extracts from Mr. Cockerell's Account of his

Discoveries at Ægina---Excursion to the Piræus, Munichia, and Phalerum---Excursion upon

the Borders of the Ilissus---Stadium---Altar of the Fates---Curious Anathema--- Excursion

to the Site of the Academy---Gardens of the Cephissus---Plato---Colonos---Timon's Tower

---Grecian Damsel returning from the Fountain---Mount Anchesmus---Inscriptions decy-

phered---Statue of Anchesmian Jupiter---Author attends the School of Athens to hear

Homer expounded---Greek Composition as now taught---Literary Society established at

Athens---Ascent up Mount Hymettus-Excursion to the great fortified Pass between the

Thriasian and Acharnensian Plains---Tour through Part of Attica---Arrival of Tatars from

Ioannina and Constantinople---Vaivode's Government renewed, &c.---Intended Tour in the

Morea prevented---Robbery by our Servant Giovanni---Method pursued in the Affair and

DiscoveryAuthor attacked by an Ague---Arrival of General Davies---Accompany him to

see the religious Ceremonies of the Dervishes in the Tower of Andronicus---Monument of

Lysicrates---Court of Judicature held by the Archbishop, &c.---Power of the Turkish Of-

ficers and Vaivode---Patriarchal Power of the Turks over their own Families---Remarkable

Instance of its Exertion---Departure from Athens Albanian Cottage of Kassià at the Foot

of Parnes

CHAPTER XI.

Passage over the Parnes---Phyle---Approach to Thebes---Its Site---Ismenus---Arx Cadméa---

Excursion round the City---Theban Damsel at a Fountain---Sites of various ancient Mo-

numents---Purchase of Antiquities---Author attacked by Ague---Departure from Thebes to

Livadia---Expected Attack from Robbers---Arrival at Livadia---Author confined by Ague

Cephalonian Doctor---Plain of Topolias--- Inconveniences of travelling in Greece---De-

parture of General Davies---Author's Recovery---Pays a Visit to the Archon Logotheti---

An Albanian Soldier undergoes the Punishment of Bastinado---Account of the Cave of

Trophonius---Lake Copais---Excursion to Charonéa---Reflections on its Plain---Descrip-

tion of its Site and Antiquities---Rustic Inscription near the Theatre---Curious Inscription

in a Greek Church---Remarks on the same---Albanian Cottagers---Return to Livadia---

Produce of its Soil

CHAPTER XII.

Departure from Livadia to Delphi---View of Parnassus---Ancient Triodos---Parnassus the Ci-

tadel of Phocis---Defile called Schiste---Arrival at Arracova---Description of it, Industry

of its Inhabitants, and Tyranny of Ali Pasha---Start for Delphi---Memorials of the earliest

Ages connected with Parnassus---First View of Delphi---Reflections thereon---Scene for a

Painter described---Ruins of ancient Edifices---Tombs---Monastery of the Panagia on the

Site of the Gymnasium---Character of the Caloyers---Inscriptions---Castalian Fountain---

Arrival at Castri on the Site of Delphi---Engage a Priest as a Cicerone--- His Character---

Return to the Castalian Fountain-Bath of the Pythia---Double Vertex of Parnassus--

PAGE

277

318

CONTENTS.

Ascent to the Source of the Spring---Ancient Sites and Inscriptions---Stadium---Site of the

Pythia Temple---Misery of Castri---Departure to Crisso---Crissaan Plain---Antique In-

scription---C.issa and Cirrha.....

CHAPTER XIII.

Reascend the Heights of Parnassus---Church of St. Elias---View from thence---Fine semicircular

Seat---Reflections on the Ruins of Delphi---Ancient Sepulchre---Shed supposed to be a

Remnant of the Pythian Temple---One of its Walls covered with Inscriptions---Copy of one,

in which mention is made of the Pythian Apollo---Historical Account of the successive

Pythian Temples---Description of the last which remained entire in the Days of Pausanias

---Contractors and Architect---Materials of the Building---Form and Species---Sculpture on

the Pediments---Statuaries--- Armour suspended on the Architrave---Sculpture of the Me-

topes and of the Frieze---Inscription over the Pronaos---Ornaments of it---Ceila, with its

Ornaments---Adytum---Statue of the God---Its Deportation to Byzantium---Oracular Chasm

---Tripod---Priestess---Tapestry, Subjects of its Embroidery, and Uses---ŒEdituus or Su-

perintendent---Temenos---Delphic Treasuries---Plunderers of Delphi---Sacred Feasts---

Decline and Extinction of the Oracle---Delphic Laurel---Departure to Salona---Albanian

Vaivode---Description of Salona---Acropolis of Amphissa---Inhabitants---Set sail on the

Gulf of Crissa---Dangerous Voyage---Land at Galaxithi---Its Navy and increasing Com-

merce---Reflections thereon---Policy of Ali Pasha---Sailors---Description of the Town,

ancient Site, Walls, Inscriptions, &c.---Religious Rites of the Greeks---Set Sail---Unable to

land at Patras---Greek Music---Storm---Shelter behind Curzolari Islands--- Achelous---

Fisheries---Set Sail---Strike on a Rock---Anchor in the Dioryctos, opposite Santa Maura

---Description of the Island---New Works at the Port---Lover's Leap---Horrid Stories of

Ali Pasha---Set Sail---Beautiful Prospect, and Arrival at Prevesa

CHAPTER XIV.

Contrast between the once flourishing, and the present wretched State of Prevesa---Conquest

by the Venetians---Ruin by Ali Pasha---Miserie of the Inhabitants, &c.---Visit to the Vai-

vode---Inscription in the Wall of a Gateway---Turkish Mosque---Codgià-Bashee---Regu-

lation of Police---Excursion to the Ruins of Nicopolis---Site, Origin, and Privileges of that

City---Examination of its Antiquities---Tombs---Aqueduct---Citadel---Gateway and Walls

---Inscription, &c.----Small Theatre---Bath----Great Suburb---Gymnasium---Stadium---

Large Theatre---Actian Games---Description of Theatre---Anecdote of Augustus and his

Dedication of Statues---Historical Remarks upon Nicopolis---Its Decline, partial Recovery,

and Fall---Return to Prevesa---Survey of its Fortifications---Grand Seraglio---Cruel Extor-

tion---Second Visit to Nicopolis---Purchase of Antiquities---Embark on the Ambracian

Gulf---Actium---Dogana of Salagora---Serai---Construction of a new Road to Arta---Wild

Fowl and Swans upon the Gulf..

PAGE

349

371

408

Arrival at Arta---Curious Greek Church---General Appearance of the City and Environs, &c.---

Site of Ambracia---Castle of Ambracus---Siege of Ambracia by the Romans---Acropolis---

Religious Ceremonies in the Greek Church---Present from the old Albanian Governor---

Departure from Arta---Canal of Luro---Journey over the Molossian Hills---Han of five

Wells----First View of and Arrival at Ioannina----General Appearance of the City----

House of Signore Nicolo Argyri, in which we lodged, described---Father and Family of our

Host---Anecdote of the Pasha---Diner with Mr. Foresti the British Resident---Signore

Psalida---His Character---First Visit to the Pasha---Serai of Litaritza---Introduction to

Ali---Advantages in visiting Ioannina at this Time---Dinner with Mr. Foresti---Psalida---

Walk round the City---Cruel Executions---Extortion of the Pasha---Gypsies---Police---

Churches---Visit to Mouchtar Pasha---Visit to young Mahmet Pasha---Gardens and Kiosk

of the Vizir---Visit to Psalida---Visit to Mr. Pouqueville the French Consul---Trait of

his Humanity---Similar Anecdote of Mr. Foresti---Shooting on the Lake---Vizir sends a

Kaivasi to reside at our House

CHAPTER XVI.

Visit to the Vizir in the Fortress---Description of the Castron---Old Serai---Conversation with

Ali---Mosques of the Castron, &c.---Visit to Mouchtar Pasha---Description of the Lake---

Katabothra---Ruins at Gastrizza---Fish of the Lake, &c.---Excursion to the supposed Site

of Dodona---Village of Velchista---Reappearance of the Waters of the Lake there---Ancient

Remains---Molossian Dogs---Climate

CHAPTER XVII.

Departure for an Excursion into Thesprotia---Scenery---Greek Chapels, &c.---Ruins of an ancient

City---Theatre and Walls---Conjectures on its Site---Village of Dramisus---Mountain Roads

---Devitzianà---Heavy Rains---Miseries of an Albanian Cottage---Flute of an Eagle's Wing

---Adventure at the Acheron---Return towards Ioannina---Village of Vareatis---Manner of

killing Fowls---Scenery of Epirus---Molossian Dogs---Arrival at Ioannina---Combat in

the Streets---Visit the Vizir in his Albanian Room---Visit Mouchtar and Mahmet Pasha---

Mr. Cockerell departs for Athens---Accompany him over the Lake---Cold of the Winter---

Great scarcity of Fuel---Game at Chess---Visit to a Greek---Dinner at the French Consul's

---Letter from Mr. Cockerell, dated Livadia, and Extract from it

A Dissertation on the Oracle of Dodona; with an Appendix on the Site of that of Delphi. By

Samuel Butler, D. D. Head Master of Shrewsbury School

....

PAGE

430

471

485

509

LIST OF PLATES.

VOL. I.

PLAN of ancient Syracuse

Plan, &c. of Hexapylon

to face Title.

p. 86

View of the Faro of Messina, with the Rocks of Scylla and the Calabrian Coast
Serais of Ali Pasha and his two Sons, in Ioannina

Portraits of Lambro the Suliot, and the old Balouk bashee of Dervitziana
Monastery of Barlaam, on one of the Rocks of Meteora

- 493

- 504

VOL. II.

Map of Albania

Mistress of a Greek Family seated on the Divan of the Gynæceum
View of Albanian Palikars in pursuit of an Enemy
View of the Castle of Berat, and Turkish Cemetery on the Banks of the Apsus
Exit of the Acheron

to face Title.

View of Suli and its surrounding Scenery, from a Window of the great Fortress

VOL. I.