insight into the character of this pasha: my own attention was directed chiefly to the contemplation of his countenance; and this is in general no index of his mind. Here it is very difficult to find any traces of that bloodthirsty disposition, that ferocious appetite for revenge, that restless and inordinate ambition, that inexplicable cunning, which has marked his eventful career: the mien of his face on the contrary has an air of mildness in it, his front is open, his venerable white beard descending over his breast gives him a kind of patriarchal appearance, whilst the silvery tones of his voice, and the familiar simplicity with which he addresses his attendants, strongly aid the deception. He appears as he is described by the animated bard

"A man of war and woes;

Yet in his lineaments ye cannot trace,

While gentleness her milder radiance throws

Along that aged venerable face,

The deeds that lurk beneath, and stain him with disgrace."

Childe Harold, p. 91.

Still after very attentive consideration I thought I could perceive certain indications of cruelty and perfidy beneath his grey eyebrows, with marks of deep craftiness and policy in the lineaments of his forehead; there was something sarcastic in his smile, and even terrible in his laugh. His address was engaging, his figure very corpulent, although it is said to have been graceful in his youth; as his stature is rather below the middle size, and his waist long in proportion, he appears to greatest advantage as we now saw him seated on the divan, or on horseback: but the print annexed will give a much better idea of his personal appearance than any other representation could hope to do.

Soon after our entrance some young boys dressed in rich garments with their fine hair flowing over their shoulders, presented us with pipes, whose amber heads were ornamented with jewels: others brought us coffee in small china cups with golden soucups. Our conversation was very desultory. The vizir paid many handsome compliments to

our country, assuring us that he should always feel happy whilst his territories afforded objects of curiosity and interest to his English friends. We assured him in return, that the theatre of his exploits, would long continue to attract the regards, not only of the English but all other nations. He seemed pleased at the compliment, inquired with much apparent interest respecting Lord Byron and Mr. Hobhouse, asked us how long we had left Athens, whether any discoveries had been made there lately by excavations, and mentioned the pleasure which his son Vely Pasha had received by his visit to that beautiful city. Observing that I was somewhat incommoded by sitting close to an immense fire piled up with logs of wood upon the hearth, he directed an Albanian attendant to place a large metal pan before me in lieu of a screen, saying " Young men require no fire at all; when I was young, I lived upon the mountains in the midst of snows and exposed to storms, with my touphéki on my shoulder and my Albanian capote, but I never cared for the cold." He then turned to Colonel Church with an air of the greatest affability, for whatever displeasure he may feel internally he can mask it by the most complete veil of hypocrisy *, and expressed his hopes that he would stay at least a month with him in Ioannina: this invitation was politely declined under plea of military orders, which obliged the colonel to leave Albania next day upon this the vizir requested another conference with him in the morning before his departure, and addressing

He certainly was at this time very jealous of our raising the Greek regiments, and suspected some deep and secret plot beyond the mere enrolment of a corps against the common enemy of Europe: many of the troops composing it were certainly his subjects, and others were outlaws or robbers who had escaped from his vengeance. Possessing, as he does, the art of simulation and dissimulation to the greatest possible extent, he hoped to have elicited all he wished to know from Colonel Church, but was cruelly disappointed by that gentleman's politic feint of ignorance in the Romaic language: thus he was thrown into the necessity of employing Mr. Foresti as an interpreter, the only man in the world perhaps who had ever so thoroughly studied his character that he was able to retain his confidence, whilst he eluded his wiles and foiled his machinations. To prevent our recruiting, Ali had very sedulously set abroad reports that the plague was in his country, and had thereby occasioned the quarantine in the Ionian isles, which prohibited our excursions in Santa Maura. Not long after Colonel Church's departure from Ioannina, we learned that all his agents had been arrested at the same time by orders of the Pasha.