journey we arrived, though late in the evening, at a solitary resting place called the "Han of five wells" (wire geάgia). It stands in a very bleak and desolate situation, upon the highest point of ground between the plains of Arta and Ioannina, and takes its name from the number of wells dug for the accommodation of caravans. Whilst the best apartments above stairs were put into order for our reception, we were glad to creep for the sake of warmth into the most wretched shed that ever was constructed for the reception of human beings, the very abode of filth, where our tatar and another of his fraternity were already seated over a few charcoal embers, boiling their coffee in small brass pots, which, together with a small cup, a metal soucup, and a wooden spoon to stir the liquor, always forms a part of their travelling apparatus. As soon as a fire was lighted up stairs by our own servants (for no Turkish han ever supplies any menial assistance) we ascended, and found that the apartment in which we were to rest had been newly composed of unseasoned wood, which by frequent splitting and warping let in the piercing breeze on all sides: thus we were unable to keep a lamp or candle lighted, or to enjoy the blessing of sleep after the large fire became extinguished that we had piled up before we went to bed. Yet we were informed that these rooms were built expressly for the accommodation of the vizir himself. Next morning we were charged twelve dollars for this lodging and fire. We started at an early hour, and proceeded by a gradual descent into the plains of Ioannina. We rested for a short time at the han of San. Dimitri, where we procured some black bread and resined wine, which the keen air of the mountains made palatable, and then dashed over the plain at a gallop, with loud cries and cracking of whips from the tatar and suradgees, like a baggage-train flying from an hostile force. About two miles before we arrived at Ioannina we ascended a gentle eminence which brought that city full into our view, with its glittering |