Colonel M'Combe and Major De Bosset, we set sail in a small boat: we had failed in our attempt the day before, when, the wind being fresh, our bark grounded in the channel, where we must have remained but for the efforts of a Greek sailor, who, by dint of main strength heaved us off the shallows: the brawny shoulders and muscular power of this man reminded us of an ancient Athleta. Having passed the castle and a small island nearly opposite its north extremity, where we were challenged by an English sentinel, the towers and forts of Prevesa were dimly seen peering above the distant waves : The sun was bright, the sea calm, and the water quite transparent* : its depth varying from about three to four fathoms we could see the bottom all the way covered with innumerable marine plants, like a thick copse of brushwood: from contemplating this novel and beautiful scene as we glided over the placid surface, we were aroused by the melancholy sound of the castle guns at Santa Maura discharging the last honours over the corpse of our late companion. At length a prospect truly oriental rose to view. This was Prevesa, with its gorgeously painted seraglio, forts, and minarets, surrounding that fine inlet of the Ambracian gulf where a cold-blooded tyrant and • Its complete tranquillity was preserved by a long ridge of rocks which project for several miles into the sea from the northern point of Sta, Maura. a hot-brained debauchee contended for the empire of the world. Well might the indignant bard exclaim, "God! was thy globe ordain'd for such to win and lose?” The miserable huts of the town itself are concealed by these edifices, which at some distance seem floating on the waves, whilst the dark mountains of Suli and the snow-capt summits of the more distant Pindus form one of the most magnificent back-grounds the imagination can picture to itself. About sunset we entered the bay, in which we observed a brig and a schooner riding at anchor surrounded by a considerable flotilla; a part of the shore was lined with fishing-boats, but few merchant vessels were to be seen. At landing we were met by the English viceconsul Signor Valentini, with Signor Giannivella the Greek codgiàbashee*, who conducted us to the house of a respectable old gentleman who had been a merchant of good repute under the Venetian government, though now reduced to a state bordering upon poverty, We had no reason however to complain of our accommodations. * The principal duties of this officer are to keep the accounts of the Greek population-to collect the haratch and other taxes, to distribute the burdens of payment equally among his townsmen-to provide necessaries, &c. for those who carry the pasha's bouyourdee. In the villages he acts as a kind of go vernor. 1. Sepulchres.-2. A small Lake.-3. Greek Church of the Lower Empire.-4. Small Theatre.-5. Gymnasium.-6. Stadium.- CHAPTER XIV. Contrast between the once flourishing, and the present wretched State of Prevesa-Conquest by the Venetians-Ruin by Ali Pasha-Miseries of the Inhabitants, &c.-Visit to the Vaivode-Inscription in the Wall of a Gateway-Turkish Mosque-Codgia-Bashee-Regulation of Police -Excursion to the Ruins of Nicopolis-Site, Origin, and Privileges of that City-Examination of its Antiquities-Tombs—Aqueduct Citadel-Gateway and Walls-Inscription, &c.-Small Theatre-Bath Great Suburb-Gymnasium-Stadium-Large Theatre-Actian Games-Description of Theatre-Anecdote of Augustus and his Dedication of Statues-Historical Remarks upon Nicopolis-Its Decline, partial Recovery, and Fall-Return to Prevesa-Survey of its Fortifications-Grand Seraglio-Cruel Extortion-Second Visit to Nicopolis -Purchase of Antiquities-Embark on the Ambracian Gulf—Actium -Dogana of Salagora-Serai-Construction of a new Road to ArtaWild Fowl and Swans upon the Gulf. NEXT morning we extended our walks over this once-flourishing city, and had an opportunity of seeing into what a state of perdition RUIN OF PREVESA BY ALI PASHA. 409 it has fallen. Formerly it exhibited a curious intermixture of Greek and Italian architecture in its handsome churches, convents, streets, and squares, with a population of 16,000 souls. Blessed with a delicious climate and an incomparable fertility of soil, it possessed also the finest fisheries in the Ionian sea*, olive-grounds and vineyards which were the envy of its neighbours, harbours sheltered from every blast, and woods spreading round the Ambracian gulf capable of supplying timber for all the navy of Greece; in short, it combined every advantage both of agriculture and commerce, where, if any where, the visions of the golden age might be realized. The Venetians, deeply impressed with a sense of its importance, especially regarding its connexion with the Ionian isles, made great efforts to obtain possession of it, which they accomplished under their great commander Morosini in the year 1684, immediately after their conquest of Santa Maura. When the lines round the place were completed, they sent in a messenger to summon its surrender, who was barbarously shot by the Turks: but the garrison soon afterwards capitulated on the following terms; that thirty of their chiefs should march out of the town with arms and baggage, the rest unarmed and with as many moveables as each could carry, all the slaves being set at liberty. Since that time it remained under Christian government and attached to the Ionian state, until Ali Pasha taking advantage of the late struggles which convulsed the whole of Europe, contrived its overthrow, having defeated the French garrison under General Salsette upon the plains of Nicopolis. Since that time what a change has been effected in its condition! Its inhabitants are now reduced to about 3000, and these for the most part worn down by famine and disease, stalk like spectres about the deserted streets over which the The Ambracian gulf was anciently celebrated for its fish. It supplied the table of the epicure with two species particularly renowned, the kάmpoc and the Aáßpat; this last was even dignified with the splendid title of 9torais Athenæi. Deipn. 1. vii. 305 & 311. 410 MISERIES OF THE INHABITANTS. gloom of departed prosperity is spread. Most of the houses, and all the churches, except one, have been levelled to the ground; greatest part of the present inhabitants dwell in the suburbs, under sheds literally constructed of hurdles, open to the sight of every passer-by, and exposed to all the winds of heaven. Here and there indeed appear the handsome new-built edifices of their Turkish despoilers, and with the melancholy dejection of the fallen Greek is contrasted the stately dignity of the turbaned Osmanlee or the haughty strut of the Albanian mountaineer with his flowing hair and white capote thrown loosely over his shoulders. A few of the old inhabitants still retain a part of their former possessions but the number of these decreases daily. The tears trickled down the cheeks of our venerable host whilst he recounted to us the series of his misfortunes. A little before our arrival 300 fine trees, the last remnant of his olive-grounds, had been taken from him and given to an Albanian officer in the pasha's service. He had been obliged to pay annually a contribution of 3000 piasters, nor did he expect that a single para of this exaction would be remitted, though the means of furnishing it were thus taken away. A lingering death by famine in the streets, as hundreds of his fellow-citizens had perished, seemed to await the poor old gentleman and his aged wife. To our inquiries why he did not sell the little of his property that was left and emigrate, he answered, that by having remained in Prevesa since its occupation by the pasha, seduced by his deceitful promises, he had made himself his subject, and that such an one cannot leave the country without permission and giving sureties for his return: that no person can purchase his property, and the very proposal would be attended with confiscation and perpetual imprisonment. Notwithstanding his systematic oppression and continual demolition of Prevesa, it is a very favourite residence of the pasha, his great naval depôt, fortified by the strongest works and adorned by the finest palace in his dominions. Neither the casual observer nor the unfortu |