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an interesting unfortunate people, and throw them into the arms of another power, whose preponderance might thence become too great for the repose and prosperity of the European states.

I beg pardon of the reader for this long digression; in consideration of which I will spare him the tedious recital of leave-taking and other preparations for our departure in Zante, and transport him at once over the Ionian waves to the shores of ancient Peloponnesus.

CHAPTER VI.

Arrival at Patras-Fast of the Ramazan-Greek Host and his SonsHospitality of the English Consul—Turkish Bath-Scenery around Patras-Manners of the People-Serious Affray-Visit to the Vaivode— Departure from Patras-Description of a Turkish Han-Reflections thereon-City of Calavrita—Ruins of Cynetha-Conduct, and singular Visage of a Postmaster-Suthenà—Arcadian Scenery and Peasantry— River Aroanius-Bridge and Tomb of a Turkish Agà-Han-Climate of Arcadia-Plain of Mantinéa-Arrival at Tripolizza—Greek Dragoman-Unfortunate Dilemma with the Pasha-Cephalonian DoctorVisit to Ruins of Tegea-Friendly Conduct of Nourri Bey-Extract from Mr. Cockerell's Tour in the Morea-His Discovery of the Phigalian Marbles, &c.-Departure from Tripolizza-Mount Parthenion— Lernaan Marsh-Arrival at Argos.

AFTER the close of day on the 8th of September, we cast anchor in the Bay of Patras: the shades of night were already spread around its cypress groves, but brilliant rows of lighted lamps surrounding the slender minarets of its mosques, rendered the city faintly visible to the eye, as if it had been seen through a darkened glass. This illumination, together with the hollow sound of drums and the grating discord of Turkish music*, announced to us that we had arrived in the fast of the Ramazan, a season of mortification to the disciples of Mahomet, who are enjoined the most rigid abstinence for one month during the whole time that the sun is above the horizon: after sun-set and the celebration of public prayers, their law allows them to take a slight refresh

*The principal instrument in a Turkish band is called zournas: it somewhat resembles a hautboy, but is smaller, and emits a very shrill and grating sound which is heard to a great distance.

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ment, just sufficient to keep body and soul together; but no luxury, not even the almost necessary comforts of a pipe and a cup of coffee. Most of the Turks have greatly relaxed the rigid discipline of this ordinance: preserving its outward form, when the spirit is evaporated, they turn night into day, and as soon as the ceremony of evening prayer is finished, commence a scene of riot and festivity, indulging in every excess with greater zeal from the very circumstance of its prohibition. A few austere mussulmen are however still found, especially in that class called Hadjee, who have made the pilgrimage to Mecca, and these strictly adhere to all the enactments of the law, avoid even the smell of a nosegay, or the sight of anathematized meat, and would as soon take a dose of poison as a pinch of snuff. Such devotees generally come out of the Ramazan as lean as Pharaoh's kine, but they find sweet consolation in that deference which is paid to their superior sanctity, and the licence which they enjoy of railing at those well-conditioned rogues whose sleek skins and plump faces betoken their contempt for the prophet's commands. This fast begins and ends with one revolution of the moon: hence the new orb of this luminary is welcomed by the half-starved Mahometans with shouts of joy and a constant firing of pistols, musketry, and cannon: in their eagerness to announce the arrival of this interesting visitor, they mount the highest towers, the roofs of houses, and minarets of the mosques.

September 9th. The English ensign flying at our mast-head brought crowds of people to the quay as soon as day began to dawn, and amongst the rest a secretary of the English consul who conducted us to our lodging in the city. The attempt would be vain to express my sensations at first setting foot upon the shores of Greece, that

"Clime of the unforgotten brave!

Whose land from plain to mountain-cave,
Was freedom's home, or glory's grave !"

*Giaour, l. 103.

The impression is still vivid-never to be effaced-but it defies description. We had scarcely taken possession of our apartment before our host, a respectable Greek, entered, leading in his hand a fine comely boy, about six years of age, whom he introduced as his eldest son Themistocles: the child ran eagerly to our fire-arms which he began to handle with manifest delight: the father observed him with signs of pleasure, telling us that he was a brave boy, though much inferior to Leonidas his youngest brother, whom he hoped to see one day heading his countrymen against their common enemy. What vengeance burns secretly in the breasts of this injured people, like the concealed flame of a volcano! Let the Turks beware of its explosion; for terrible will be their fate if they be caught sleeping in the lethargic lap of power.

After breakfast we adjourned to the consular dwelling of Signore Strani, for whom we had brought letters of introduction and from whom we experienced, during our residence at Patras, that hospitality and attention which so many travellers have acknowledged: from thence we proceeded to the public hummaum, or Turkish bath, which is generally recommended as the best restorative in the world after the fatigues of travelling: in the large outer apartment lay a considerable number of persons enjoying the luxury of repose after their ablution: each occupied a separate couch, having a cloth wrapped round his head and a sheet thrown over his body, and altogether exhibiting the appearance of patients in an hospital: both this and every other room we saw was the very abode of dirt and darkness, a perfect contrast to what we read of those elegant, costly, and diaphanous edifices which the ancients erected for their baths, and adorned with the choicest works of art. Having left our clothes upon couches in the outer apartment, we enveloped ourselves in fine linen, and putting our feet into wooden clogs, marched together into a small interior room under a circular dome, where being seated upon wooden platforms raised about one foot from the floor the apartment was soon filled with steam

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so completely as to render every object invisible, and we underwent the operation of stewing, soaping, scraping, and kneading; it was any thing but luxury; yet the sensations that ensued in the elasticity of the spirits, flexibility of the limbs, and invigoration of the frame, were new and delightful.

Patras contains very few remnants of antiquity worthy of commemoration*: but its magnificent site upon the roots of Mount Voithiá, the ancient Panachaicon, commanding the fine scenery of the Corinthian gulf, amidst which rise the majestic summits of Ætolian Chalcis and Taphiasus, is admirably calculated to impress a favourable opinion of Grecian scenery upon the mind of the traveller. This port being the principal entrepot of Morean commerce, is one of the chief places of residence for European consuls in Turkey: nor is it less a rendezvous for villains of every description, stained with the blackest crimes, who escape the sword of justice and resort hither from all the neighbouring islands. This circumstance gives an air and character of peculiar ferocity to its Turkish inhabitants, who allege that, without extreme severity, no order could possibly be preserved among so vile a population. One evening we ourselves witnessed their summary mode of justice and skill in quelling a riot. A quarrel had arisen in the public street between two vagabonds of Cephalonia: this soon attracted a crowd, some of whom became interested in the affray, and others stood by as idle spectators. The Turks were not long inactive ; having collected together their forces in considerable numbers from the bazar and adjoining houses, and being armed with long white sticks, which they generally carry in their hands, like the sceptres of ancient heroes, they commenced a furious attack upon the multitude, dealing blows most liberally upon their heads and shoulders, and following

* I found but one inscription, and that had lately been dug up in a vineyard near the city where it was then lying. It was on the pedestal of a statue and commemorated one L. CVRTIVS ONESIPHORVS. Some fragments of antique sculpture are enclosed in the external masonry of the castle walls.