confusion of the echoes. The voices of several persons speaking at the same time are as unintelligible as the cackling of geese, so that if the ancient Sicilians were half as loquacious as the modern, who always chatter in concert, they must very often have put the listening tyrant to a nonplus. The most agreeable effect produced was by the notes of a German-flute, the finest by a bugle-horn; the sound in both instances being multiplied till it appeared almost like a band of music. I think therefore, upon the whole, that the reader will agree with me in considering these experiments unfavourable to the common tradition, and that the prisoners must have been well tutored beforehand to have sustained their parts in the drama. The design of this curious cavern must in all probability remain for ever a mystery; a mystery which, like many others, if unravelled, would confer no benefit upon society, but rather destroy a source of harmless investigation and innocent amusements: if I were to form an opinion upon the subject I should incline to consider it as an experiment in acoustics by some ingenious mechanic of the school of Archimedes, who found this rock better suited to his purpose than that which was first attempted in the garden of the Capuchins. Before we quitted the lautomia we took the measure of this grotto, as well as we were able, and found it 183 feet in length, varying at different parts in breadth from 16 to 21, 25, and 33 feet the height appeared to be about 70. The shape of the ground plan in some measure resembles the letter S, the sides incline to each other in a wavy line towards the roof, which is finished by a narrow channel five feet eight inches in depth, and decreasing in breadth from three feet three inches to one foot eight inches. At about mean distance on the right hand side, is a large and deep recess or chamber, of the shape here represented, which is called the tympanum of the ear. A considerable number of stone rings have been cut in the sides of the cavern, to which,

as the story goes, the prisoners were attached; but as a

child could break them, the story is at once refuted-they are probably of modern addition.

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REFLECTIONS ON THE ANTIQUITIES OF SYRACUSE.

With this beautiful lautomia ended our survey of the antiquities of Syracuse, a survey which afforded us the most pure and unmixed sensations of delight, where the eye was enchanted, the mind employed, and the powers of imagination stimulated: it was indeed a noble theatre where fancy could call back the phantoms of a splendid drama which was past, and revel in the visionary combinations of her own creation. The cynic may deride the feelings thus excited, but though they increase not the stock of literature or science, they are neither useless nor degrading: they purify and exalt the human heart, supply it with fresh sources of sentiment, and encourage that enthusiasm which aspires to imitate the objects of its admiration. “Quis est quem non moveat clarissimis monumentis testata consignataque antiquitas?"

The following day was occupied in preparing for our departure and taking leave of our acquaintance; and on the 18th of June we finally bid adieu to Syracuse. As we passed slowly and silently over the deserted platform of this once populous city, we turned our eyes towards the height of Epipolæ glittering in the morning sun, anxious to catch the last view, as it were, of a friend from whom we were about to part for ever.

Χαϊρ ̓Αρέθοισα,

Καὶ ποταμοὶ τοὶ χειτε καλὸν κατὰ Θύμβριδος ὕδωρ.

CHAPTER IV.

Journey towards Catania-Ancient Monument opposite Thapsus-Arrival at Catania-Description of that City-Expedition to the Rocks of the Cyclopes-Ascent up Mount Etna-Description of the Mountain with its various Phenomena-Journey to Giardini-Ascent to Taormina— Magnificence of its Site-Immense Theatre-Prospect of Etna, and the Faro Straits-Cape Alessio-Messina-Sirocco Wind-Journey to Palermo-Festival of Santa Rosolia-College of Jesuits-Piazzi the Astronomer-Journey through the Interior of Sicily to Messina-Description of that City-Superstition of its Inhabitants-Festival of the Bara-Madonna della Lettera-Copy of the Letter written by the Virgin Mary to the People of Messina-Straits of the Faro-Scylla and Charybdis-Fortifications at the Faro Point-The Pantani, or Lakes of the Faro-Site of the Neptunium-Heights of Curcuracci-Return to Messina-Illumination of the Calabrian Coast-Splendid Scene in the Harbour of Messina-Fishery-Harpooning of the Pesce-spadaIncreasing Commerce-Variety of Costume-Albanian or Greek Regiment-Ancient Sarcophagus-Sail for Zante-Violent Storm-Arrival at Zante.

AT the distance of about five miles, opposite the peninsula of Thapsus, now called Magnisi, we observed on the left hand side of the road a square pedestal of great size, on which are a few layers of an immense circular column. It is called by the natives La Guglia, and is said, upon the authority of Fazzello and Mirabella, to be the remains of a trophy erected by Marcellus for his conquest of Syracuse. It certainly stands upon or near the ground where the Roman army was encamped during the siege, and that has, perhaps, led these historians

108

DESCRIPTION OF CATANIA.

to ascribe it to the Roman conqueror, without the least authority from historical records. Long before the shades of night descended we arrived at Augusta; and the next day brought us to Catania, the finest city in Sicily, and for its size, perhaps in Europe. It is nobly situated on the roots of Etna, its despoiler and its benefactor-overwhelmed as it has often been by torrents of liquid fire, it has risen like the Phoenix more splendid from its ashes. The very substance which once ravaged its plains, has by its own decomposition covered them with soil fertile as the fabled garden of the Hesperides, and on all sides the material of destruction is turned to the purposes of ornament and utility: the streets are paved with lava-houses, palaces, and churches are built of lava-of lava they form ornamental chimney pieces, tables, and a variety of toys-whilst a natural mole of lava defends the shipping from the fury of the tempest. Ask a Catanian what is the substance of almost any thing you behold in art or nature, and his reply will be, with a most significant elevation of his hands and eyebrows, "Lava, Signore; tutta tutta Lava." The plan of this city is very superb, and no one is permitted to deviate from it in building it contains three streets, each a mile, more or less, in length: the longest and most splendid of these terminated at one end by the Cathedral, forms at the other a noble vista which directs the eye up a gradual and majestic ascent to the smoking summit of Mount Etna: no capital in Europe that I have seen, probably none in the world, contains so sublime a prospect. Near the Cathedral is a fine piazza or square, adorned with an antique statue of an elephant. Tradition' says, that this square formed in very early ages the temenos of a temple dedicated to the Dea Ognia, the daughter of Cham, and afterwards to Pallas, whose armed effigy was seated upon an elephant, in memory of a great victory gained over the Carthaginians, who attacked the walls of the town from towers placed upon the backs of those stupendous animals, in the reign of Cocalus, King of the Sicani. Catania has been long celebrated as the best university in Sicily: literature, indeed, seems to have flourished here in early times; for Marcellus

ROCKS OF THE CYCLOPES.

109

founded a celebrated gymnasium within its walls after his Syracusan victory, and it was from Catania that M. Val. Messala brought a knowledge of the Sun-dial to Rome, in the first Punic War. This city is noted also for its numerous charitable foundations, and the humane disposition of its inhabitants: amongst the present race, the Duca di Carcaci and the Principe di Gisiro deserve particular approbation, each of whom is supposed to give away at least a third of his income in acts of charity; the annual revenue of the latter being estimated at 12,000 dollars, and that of the former, who has founded an hospital, at 30,000. The Museum of the Prince of Biscari, which with great liberality is thrown open to the public, possesses strong attractions: amongst other treasures it contains one of the finest collections of bronze statues in the world. Its agreeable society, in which Catania excels the rest of the island, the inspection of its extensive silk manufactories*, its superb edifices, and its ancient curiosities buried underneath the modern city, above all, the agreeable incident of meeting with a valued friend on his return home from the borders of Euphrates †, detained us more than a week in this delightful place. One day we made an excursion over the ancient port of Ulysses, which has long been filled up by an inundation of lava, to the celebrated "Scogli di Ciclopi," or rocks of the Cyclopes, an appellation which they have retained since the days of Pliny. Having passed over the worst roads in the island, we arrived in about two hours at the Castello di Aci: there we took a boat, and proceeded over the calm surface of the most transparent sea I ever beheld, to the rocks which appeared about half a mile distant from the shore. They are seven in number, lying nearly in a strait line from north to south. Three of them rise to the height of near a hundred feet from the water in a pyramidal shape, three

Silk worms were brought by Roger the first about the year 1130 from Athens into Sicily, whence their culture passed into Italy. They were introduced from India into Constantinople under the reign of Justinian.

+ John Fiott Lee, Esq. of Colworth House, Bedfordshire,