The country, as far as I have yet advanced, is (though not generally fertile, and almost universally flat) as beautiful as palms, and spreading trees, and diligent cultivation can make it, and the ancient Hindoo temples, though inferior in taste to the magnificent Mussulman buildings of which I sent you a description from the north-west of India, are in size, picturesque effect, and richness of carving, far above any thing which I had expected to meet with. Here, at Chillumbrum, (a town half-way between Cuddalore and Tanjore) is a temple of Siva, covering with its quadrangles, its cloisters, its "hall of eleven hundred columns," and the other buildings which surround its sanctuary, a space of ground, I am persuaded, more than equal to Christ Church, with an establishment, if its abbot speaks the truth, (who, by the way, strange as it may seem, is himself of a low caste) of no fewer than 300 Brahmins. The place, however, which though of comparatively insignificant size, has interested me most from the association with which it is connected, is Māhǎbālipoorum, "the city of the great Bali," with its ruins lashed by the surf, and the romance of its submarine palaces.

I hope some day to find time for a more elaborate and intelligible view. But, indeed, I do not eat the bread of idleness in this country. Since my arrival at Madras, little more than three weeks ago, I have preached eleven times (including my visitation charge) have held four public and one

private confirmation, visited five schools, attended one public meeting, travelled sixty miles in a palanquin, and 140 on horseback, besides a pretty voluminous correspondence with Government, different Missionaries and Chaplains, and my Syrian brother Mar Athanasius. And the thermometer this day stands at ninety-eight in the shade. However I continue, thank God, on the whole, to enjoy as good health as I ever did in England. Busy as I am, my business is mostly of a kind which I like, and which accords with my previous studies. The country, the objects, and the people round me, are all of a kind to stimulate and repay curiosity more than most others in the world; and though there are, alas! many moments in the day (more particularly now that I am separated from my wife and children) in which I feel my exile painfully, I should be very ungrateful indeed if I did not own myself happy. Heaven grant that I may not be useless! When at Calcutta you have added much to my comfort by sending Grey there, who, I rejoice to say, is as popular as he deserves to be. It happens now, remarkably, that all the three Chief Justices were my contemporaries at Oxford, and that I have always been on terms of friendly intercourse with all, though Grey was the only one with whom I was intimate.

*

Lord Combermere, during his stay in Calcutta, was a great accession to our circle, and I really believe you could have found no person better suited to play the very difficult and important task

He

which was placed in his hands, from his good sense, his readiness in dispatch of business, and his accessibility, which had gone far to gain him the good will of the Company's army, even before his success at Bhurtpoor; appears at present to enjoy a higher reputation than any Commander-in-Chief since Lord Cornwallis, or any officer who has appeared in India, except Sir A. Wellesley.

*

It is really strange how much importance has been attached to the fortress of Bhurtpoor. Even in the Carnatic, Sir Thomas Munro tells me, the native princes would not believe that it ever could be taken, or that the Jâts were not destined to be the rallying point of India, as they certainly are, by the little which I saw of them, among its finest races. I regret now I did not visit Bhurtpoor. I was within one march, and corresponded with the Raja, but was too anxious to reach Jyepoor, to accept his invitation.

Sir T. Munro is a man of very considerable talent, and is universally respected and esteemed by all whom I have yet heard speak of him; individually I have received much kindness from him.

REGINALD CALCUTTA.

TO THE REV. CHARLES SHIPLEY.

Tanjore, March 28, 1826.

MY DEAR CHARLES,

I am again, alas, separated for several months from my dear wife and children, having been obliged to undertake the visitation of southern India in a season when it is dangerous for any but the robust and hardy to travel. The heat is indeed already considerable, and must be, ere many weeks are over, much greater. I am well, however, and am very closely and interestingly occupied in the visitation of the Missions under the patronage of the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, the success of which, since the time of the excellent Schwartz, has been far greater than is generally known or supposed in Europe. On Easter-day, I confirmed seventy, and administered the Sacrament to nearly 200 natives, and in the evening, when the service was in Tamul, I pronounced the benediction in that language on above 1300. The difference of numbers will be easily accounted for ; since, in the former instance, few attended but those who understood a little English, the rest having attended the ministry of one of the Missionaries early in the morning. This, however, is only in the city of Tanjore. There are scattered congregations, to the number of many thousand Protestant Christians, in all the neighbouring cities

and villages; and the wicker-bound graves, each distinguished by a little cross of cane, of the poor people by the road side, are enough to tell even the most careless traveller that the country is, in a great measure, Christian. The Missions, however, are in a state which requires much help and restoration; their funds, which were considerable, have been sadly dilapidated since the time of Schwartz, by the pious men (but quite ignorant of the world) who have succeeded him, and though I find great piety and good-will, I could wish a little more energy in their proceedings at present.

I heartily wish I could stay here a month or six weeks, every hour of which time might be usefully and profitably employed. My time, however, is very limited, and I must press on to Travancore before the south-west monsoon shall have made travelling on the Malabar coast impossible.

Thence, I hope, after visiting Calicut and Cannanore, to return by Seringapatam to Madras, and thence to Calcutta.

Heaven bless you, my dear Charles,

Believe me ever your's affectionately,

REGINALD CALCUTTA.