PREFACE.

IT is not intended to detain the Reader by a long Preface. If the Work submitted to his notice be worthy of approbation, it will be conceded without solicitation ; if not, the Author would disdain to seek from favour that which justice should deny. With regard to the assistance which he has received from friends and others, all such instances are noticed, as he hopes, with a proper sense of gratitude, in the several pages where they occur. His opinions throughout have been expressed freely and conscientiously, but without bigotry; since he is very ready to acknowledge the weakness of human judgment, and will be as anxious to retract an error, as he would be averse to supporting any doctrine or position from interested and selfish motives. He has long wished to

fulfil his engagement in the publication of these volumes, that he might give a more exclusive attention to studies connected with a profession adopted subsequently to his Travels; but that wish has been prevented by several causes with which it is not necessary to make the Public acquainted. Whatever may be the fate of his Work, the Author's intention has been to instruct and amuse the Reader; but if he shall have only succeeded partially in this design, and amused him without vitiating his taste or corrupting his principles, he will even then think his time has not been unprofitably employed.

Cambridge,

June 17, 1820.

CONTENTS.

VOLUME I.

CHAPTER I.

Departure from England-Arrival at Gibraltar-Excursion into Spain-Arrival in Sicily-Bay

of Palermo-City and Noblesse-Experiment of the British Constitution-Sicilian Parlia-

ment-Errors of the British Authorities-Concise Account of Manners, &c. in the Sicilian

Capital-Reflections on the general State of the Island-Departure from Palermo, and Arrival

at Girgenti-Ancient Republic of Agrigentum, Commerce, Luxury, and Fine Arts-Splendid

Site of the City-Description of its Temples and other Antiquities-Modern City of Girgenti

upon Mount Camicus-Cathedral, Public Library, &c.-Festival at the Dominican Convent-

Excavations among the Tombs-Departure from Girgenti-Peasantry-Celebration of Har-

vest-home-Music-Arrival at and Description of Castro Giovanni-Temple of Ceres-Lake

of Proserpine-Ancient Castle converted into a Gaol-Scene among the Felons-Adminis-

tration of Justice, and Prison Discipline-Account of Riots and Execution at Palermo.....

CHAPTER II.

Journey to Syracuse-Excavations in the Rock at Lentini-Eastern Coast of Sicily-Arrival at

Syracuse-Gates shut-Sleep on the Edge of the Great Harbour-Appearance of the same-

Pass the fortified Isthmus-Quarrels of the Sicilians-Small Harbour-Hotel of the Leon

d'oro-History of our Host-Visit to Arethusa-Account of Arethusa and Alpheus-Cas-

tello di Maniace-Transportation of Santa Lucia's Corpse, &c. to Constantinople-Infa-

mous Conduct of a Marquess Geraci-Ancient Granaries, Walls, Towers, and Strength, of

Ortygia-Circuit of the Ramparts-Author attacked by Fever-Convalescence, and Visit to

the celebrated Antiquary D. Giuseppe Capodieci-Public Library of Syracuse-Monument

of Hierocles-National Museum, Torso of Venus, Statues of Esculapius, Apollo, &c. Head

of Jupiter Eleutherius, Marble Sarcophagi, Greek Paintings, epitaphial Inscriptions, Monu-

ment of Perpenna; Terra-cotta Vases; Handle of a Vase inscribed with the Name of Aga-

thocles; Character of that Prince-Return to the Leon d'oro-Sail in the Great Harbour-

Promontory of Plemmyrium-Piazza, or great Square of Syracuse-Cathedral-Temple of

Minerva-Its Conversion into a Christian Church-Temple of Diana-Baths of Daphne-

Fortifications of the Isthmus-Fortress of Dionysius I.-Palace of Hiero-Roman Præto-

rium-Saracenic Fort, "Il Castello di Mahrietto"-Compendious History of Syracuse....

CHAPTER III.

Site of Acradina-Cicero's Description-Temple of Jupiter-Forum-Prytaneum-Plunder of

the fine Arts in Syracuse by the Romans-Small Harbour and Vestiges of Buildings-House

of Archimedes-Capuchin Convent-Beautiful Gardens in a Lautomia or ancient Stone

Quarry-Church of Santa Lucia-Shrine and Image of the Saint-Supposed Ruins of the

Hexacontaclinos, and Construction of a curious Arch-Baths excavated by the Cavaliere

Landolina-Traces of the principal Street of Acradina-Church of St. John-Sepulchre of

St. Marcian-Votive Offerings-Descent into the Catacombs-Illumination and gene-

ral Remarks upon them-Return to Syracuse-Second Visit to Acradina-Circuit of the

Walls-Gateways - Broad Street of Separation between Acradina and the upper City-

Turris Galeagra-Return again to Syracuse-Visit to Signore Capodieci-Expedition to

Tycha - Temenites-Apollo and Diana-Ancient Sepulchres-Few Remains of Antiquity

in Tycha-Athenian Wall of Circumvallation-Wall of Dionysius-Fortress of Hexapylon

-Marcellus weeping over Syracuse--Reflections thereon-Battle with a Snake-Labdalus

-Ancient Masonry--Species called Emplecton-Castle of Euryelus upon Epipole-Dif-

ference of Generalship between Nicias and Marcellus-Tremila and Villa of Timoleon-His

Character, &c.- Lysimelia-Olympiæum-Jupiter Urios-River Anapus and Fountain

Cyane-Papyrus-Syracusan Festival-Visit to Neapolis-Lautomia called "Il Paradiso"—

Ear of Dionysius-Character of that Prince misrepresented by the Ancients - Great Theatre

-Street of the Tombs-Tomb of Archimedes-Ancient Aqueduct-Amphitheatre-Pol-

lian Wine-Dangerous Ascent to the Chamber of Dionysius - Reflections on the Antiqui-

ties of Syracuse-Departure ..

CHAPTER IV.

Journey towards Catania-Ancient Monument opposite Thapsus-Arrival at Catania-Descrip-

tion of that City-Expedition to the Rocks of the Cyclopes-Ascent up Mount Etna-

Description of the Mountain with its various Phenomena-Journey to Giardini - Ascent to

Taormina-Magnificence of its Site-Immense Theatre-Prospect of Etna, and the Faro

Straits-Cape Alessio-Messina-Sirocco Wind-Journey to Palermo-Festival of Santa

Rosolia-College of Jesuits-Piazzi the Astronomer-Journey through the Interior of

Sicily to Messina-Description of that City-Superstition of its Inhabitants-Festival of

the Bara-Madonna della Lettera-Copy of the Letter written by the Virgin Mary to the

People of Messina-Straits of the Faro-Scylla and Charybdis-Fortifications at the Faro

Point---The Pantani, or Lakes of the Faro---Site of the Neptunium---Heights of Curcuracci

---Return to Messina---Illumination of the Calabrian Coast---Splendid Scene in the Har-

bour of Messina---Fishery---Harpooning of the Pesce-spada---Increasing Commerce---

Variety of Costume---Albanian or Greek Regiment---Ancient Sarcophagus---Sail for Zante

---Violent Storm---Arrival at Zante.....

CHAPTER V.

View of the City of Zante---Monte Scopo and Acroteria---Description of the Interior of the City

---Description of the Island---Produce in Wine, Oil, and Currants, &c.---Revenue---Inha-

bitants---Venetian Government---Improvements by the British---Religion---Compendious

Ancient and Modern History of the Isle---Antiquities---Tomb of Cicero---Pythagoras of

Zacynthus, and his Invention of the Tripod-Harp---Dinner with the Governor of Zante---

Exhibition of Rope-Dancers---Erection of a Theatre---Excursion to the Pitch-Wells---

Manners of the Peasantry---Dinner with the Ex-Governor---Visit to Prince Comuto---In-

spection of the Phigalian Marbles---Spirit of Discovery excited thereby---Account of Mr.

Fiott Lee's successful Excavations in Ithaca--- List of rare and valuable Articles discovered

---Notice of them in the Ionian Ephemeris---Establishment of a free Press in Zante---Re-

sults that may be expected---State of the Modern Greeks---Reflections thereon---Departure

for the Morea

...

PAGE

67

107

144

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VI.

Arrival at Patras-Fast of the Ramazan-Greek Host and his Sons--Hospitality of the English

Consul-Turkish Bath-Scenery around Patras-Manners of the People-Serious Affray-

Visit to the Vaivode-Departure from Patras-Description of a Turkish Han-Reflections

thereon-City of Calavrita-Ruins of Cynethæ-Conduct, and singular Visage of a Post-

master-Suthena-Arcadian Scenery and Peasantry-River Aroanius-Bridge and Tomb

of a Turkish Agà-Han-Climate of Arcadia-Plain of Mantinéa-Arrival at Tripolizza-

Greek Dragomau-Unfortunate Dilemma with the Pasha-Cephalonian Doctor-Visit to

Ruins of Tegea-Friendly Conduct of Nourri Bey---Extract from Mr. Cockerell's Tour in

the Morea--- His Discovery of the Phigalian Marbles, &c.---Departure from Tripolizza---

Mount Parthenion---Lernæan Marsh---Arrival at Argos.....

CHAPTER VII.

Larissaan Acropolis---View from thence---Reflections thereon---Plain of Argos---Excursion to

Tiryns---Cotton Harvest---Description of Tiryns---Cyclopéan Masonry---Historical In-

quiry into the Origin and Character of the Cyclopes, &c.---Architecture introduced by them,

with its subsequent Improvements---Nauplia---Kind Reception by the Pasha---Manners of

the Turks--Feast of the Bairam---Curious Incident in the Street of Argos---Visit to the

Vaivode-Investigation of Argos---Theatre---Statue of Telesilla---History of that Heroine

---Endeavour to explain the strange confusion of Argos and Mycena by ancient Authors---

Albanian Inhabitants of Argos---Custom of the Girls carrying Coins upon their Heads---

Visit to Mycena---Acropolis---Gate of the Lions---Homeric Age and Poems---Treasuries

of Atreus-Defence of the Argive Character

CHAPTER VIII.

Cross the Plain of Argos---River Inachus---Cave of the Nemean Lion---Nemea-Cleonæ---Ar-

rival at Corinth---Excellent Character of the young Bey. His great Hospitality---Failure in

our Attempt to ascend the Acrocorinthus---Ascent of an adjoining Mountain---Departure

and Passage over the Isthmus---Megara---Interesting Discovery made there by Mr. Jones

-Plain of Eleusis and Saronic Gulf---First View of Athens---Arrival there---Visits of

Ceremony from the Inhabitants

CHAPTER IX.

Walk in Athens---Pnyx---Adventure there---Athenian Acquaintance---Mr. Cockerell---Temple

of Theseus---Tweddell---Archon Logotheti---Trait in the Character of the modern Athe-

nians---Athenian Girls---Manners and Customs---Visit to the Vaivode---Dispatch a Mes-

senger to Constantinople-Visit the Acropolis accompanied by Signore Lusieri---English

Frigate entering the Piræus---Disdar Agà---Parthenon---Erecthéum---Colossal Statue of

Minerva---Spoliation by Lord Elgin, &c.---Character of the ancient Athenians, and Traits

of the modern---Athenian Ball---Manners of the Turkish Women---Curious Adventure of

the Author---Lusieri's Collection of Antiquities---Fauvel's---Walks round Athens---An-

cient Platforms, Seats, Sepulchres, &c.---Prison of Socrates........

ix

PAGE

172

201

237

249