1. Sepulchres.-2. A small Lake.-3. Greek Church of the Lower Empire.-4. Small Theatre.-5. Gymnasium.-6. Stadium.- CHAPTER XIV. Contrast between the once flourishing, and the present wretched State of Prevesa-Conquest by the Venetians-Ruin by Ali Pasha-Miseries of the Inhabitants, &c.-Visit to the Vaivode-Inscription in the Wall of a Gateway-Turkish Mosque-Codgia-Bashee-Regulation of Police -Excursion to the Ruins of Nicopolis-Site, Origin, and Privileges of that City-Examination of its Antiquities-Tombs Aqueduct— Citadel-Gateway and Walls-Inscription, &c.-Small Theatre-Bath -Great Suburb-Gymnasium-Stadium-Large Theatre-Actian Games-Description of Theatre-Anecdote of Augustus and his Dedication of Statues-Historical Remarks upon Nicopolis-Its Decline, partial Recovery, and Fall-Return to Prevesa-Survey of its Fortifications-Grand Seraglio-Cruel Extortion-Second Visit to Nicopolis -Purchase of Antiquities-Embark on the Ambracian Gulf-Actium -Dogana of Salagora-Serai-Construction of a new Road to Arta— Wild Fowl and Swans upon the Gulf. NEXT morning we extended our walks over this once-flourishing city, and had an opportunity of seeing into what a state of perdition RUIN OF PREVESA BY ALI PASHA. 409 it has fallen. Formerly it exhibited a curious intermixture of Greek and Italian architecture in its handsome churches, convents, streets, and squares, with a population of 16,000 souls. Blessed with a delicious climate and an incomparable fertility of soil, it possessed also the finest fisheries in the Ionian sea*, olive-grounds and vineyards which were the envy of its neighbours, harbours sheltered from every blast, and woods spreading round the Ambracian gulf capable of supplying timber for all the navy of Greece; in short, it combined every advantage both of agriculture and commerce, where, if any where, the visions of the golden age might be realized. The Venetians, deeply impressed with a sense of its importance, especially regarding its connexion with the Ionian isles, made great efforts to obtain possession of it, which they accomplished under their great commander Morosini in the year 1684, immediately after their conquest of Santa Maura. When the lines round the place were completed, they sent in a messenger to summon its surrender, who was barbarously shot by the Turks: but the garrison soon afterwards capitulated on the following terms; that thirty of their chiefs should march out of the town with arms and baggage, the rest unarmed and with as many moveables as each could carry, all the slaves being set at liberty. Since that time it remained under Christian government and attached to the Ionian state, until Ali Pasha taking advantage of the late struggles which convulsed the whole of Europe, contrived its overthrow, having defeated the French garrison under General Salsette upon the plains of Nicopolis. Since that time what a change has been effected in its condition! Its inhabitants are now reduced to about 3000, and these for the most part worn down by famine and disease, stalk like spectres about the deserted streets over which the *The Ambracian gulf was anciently celebrated for its fish. It supplied the table of the epicure with two species particularly renowned, the rάmpos and the λáßpak; this last was even dignified with the splendid title of Seonais Athenæi. Deipn. 1. vii. 305 & 311. 410 MISERIES OF THE INHABITANTS. gloom of departed prosperity is spread. Most of the houses, and all the churches, except one, have been levelled to the ground; greatest part of the present inhabitants dwell in the suburbs, under sheds literally constructed of hurdles, open to the sight of every passer-by, and exposed to all the winds of heaven. Here and there indeed appear the handsome new-built edifices of their Turkish despoilers, and with the melancholy dejection of the fallen Greek is contrasted the stately dignity of the turbaned Osmanlee or the haughty strut of the Albanian mountaineer with his flowing hair and white capote thrown loosely over his shoulders. A few of the old inhabitants still retain a part of their former possessions but the number of these decreases daily. The tears trickled down the cheeks of our venerable host whilst he recounted to us the series of his misfortunes. A little before our arrival 300 fine trees, the last remnant of his olive-grounds, had been taken from him and given to an Albanian officer in the pasha's service. He had been obliged to pay annually a contribution of 3000 piasters, nor did he expect that a single para of this exaction would be remitted, though the means of furnishing it were thus taken away. A lingering death by famine in the streets, as hundreds of his fellow-citizens had perished, seemed to await the poor old gentleman and his aged wife. To our inquiries why he did not sell the little of his property that was left and emigrate, he answered, that by having remained in Prevesa since its occupation by the pasha, seduced by his deceitful promises, he had made himself his subject, and that such an one cannot leave the country without permission and giving sureties for his return: that no person can purchase his property, and the very proposal would be attended with confiscation and perpetual imprisonment. Notwithstanding his systematic oppression and continual demolition of Prevesa, it is a very favourite residence of the pasha, his great naval depôt, fortified by the strongest works and adorned by the finest palace in his dominions. Neither the casual observer nor the unfortu VISIT TO THE VAIVODE. 411 nate victims of his despotism, can reconcile this apparent contradiction, or develop the motives of what seems to be such tyrannical caprice: to estimate these it is necessary to be acquainted with the history of this extraordinary man. No post being established here, the Turkish vaivode sent to offer his own horses and attendants, if we contemplated a visit to the ruins of Nicopolis; we accordingly waited upon him to acknowledge so polite a mark of attention, and agreed to avail ourselves of it next morning. His residence was in the old seraglio, the court of which we entered by a massive gateway, in which ancient marbles were mixed up with the modern brick-work: on one of these I copied the following inscription: ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΙΚΑΙΣΑ ΣΤΩΙΜΑΛΛΩΤΑΙ TO THE EMPEROUR CÆSAR AUGUSTUS SON OF THE DEIFIED JULIUS THE PEOPLE OF MALLUS. This dedication was made probably after the battle of Actium, but conjecture itself is at a loss where to place the people*. I observed several other inscriptions which had been sawed asunder by the workmen, concerning which no other remark is necessary, than one of indignation, that this interesting and unfortunate country should be subject to such barbarous powers. We found the vaivode, like the generality of Albanian governors, smoking his pipe and surrounded with his picturesque and ragged *The city of Mallus in Cilicia, where was the celebrated oracle of Amphilochus, is mentioned by many geographers and historians, but I cannot find one who even hints at a city of this name in Europe. Yet there seems to be such a connexion with this said Amphilochus, who gave his name to the Amphilochian Argos in the vicinity of the Ambracian gulf, and who, according to Origen (cont. Celsum, p. 131, 2.) was worshipped in Acarnania, as might lead us to imagine that a city of this name did exist somewhere hereabouts. Concerning the people, Steph. Byzant. in voce Malloc writes, ò πολίτης, Μαλλώτης, και θηλυκόν, Μαλλώτις. Vid. etiam Strabon. lib. xiv. p. 675. Τὸν γὰρ Μόψον φασὶ καὶ τὸν ̓Αμφίλοχον ἐκ Τρόιας ἐλθόντας κτίσαι Μαλλόν· ειτ' Αμφίλοχον εις "Αργος ἐλθειν 412 TURKISH MOSQUE-POLICE. satellites. He received us with such cordial civility that I have no doubt but that great expectations had been excited in the country respecting our arrival, ever since the departure of Mahomet the tatar to Athens; an opinion which was confirmed at every subsequent step we took throughout Albania. Having partaken of pipes and coffee, we returned to our lodging, observing on our way, near the great gate of the Serai, a very fine new mosque which had been erected by Ali, contrary to the solemn faith of treaties, for the service of those who were now fattening on the spoils of unfortunate Prevesa. This building had been constructed with some degree of elegance; upon one of its pillars the figures of eagles are carved in high relief, instead of volutes, with basket-work between them and leafy ornaments below; it is supplied by an aqueduct with water, an article so necessary for the ablution of the faithful mussulman. We spent a few hours in the evening with Signore Gianivella, the codgià-bashee of Prevesa, who possesses a very fine collection of cameos and intaglios with a few beautiful medals. Amongst his intaglios, one representing the head of Arsinoe covered with a mantle, is of the first style of excellence: for this gem he had refused the sum of one hundred dollars. When we departed, a servant carried a lantern before us to our lodging, without which appendage we might have been subjected to serious insult from the patrole. This is a police regulation throughout Turkey, but it is more strictly enjoined in the states of Ali Pasha than in any other; and for the annoyance of the poor Prevesans, the lantern hour is fixed here much earlier than elsewhere, so that they may be said literally to light the sun to bed all the year round. December 28. This morning the vaivode sent six horses richly caparisoned, together with two guards, to attend us to Nicopolis. We carried our guns with us, being assured that game of all sorts abounded in the district. After one hour's ride through fertile olive grounds we descried the extensive remains of this great City of Victory, which was |