It is an island, and is the chief, that is, as a maritime place, and for merchandise. It is distant from the mainland ten or twelve miles. In this said island there is not sufficient water or food, but all comes from the mainland. Near this island, at a distance of three days' journey, they fish up the largest pearls which are found in the world, and the manner of fishing for them is as you shall hear. There are certain fishers with some little boats, who throw out a large stone attached to a thick rope, one from the stern and one from the prow, in order that the said boats may remain firm: they throw down another rope, also with a stone, to the bottom. In the middle of the boat is one of these fishers, who hangs a couple of bags round his neck, and ties a large stone to his feet, and goes fifteen paces under water, and remains there as long as he is able, in order to find the oysters in which are pearls. As he finds them he puts them into the bags, and then leaves the stone which he had at his feet, and comes up by one of the said ropes.1 Sometimes, as many as three hundred vessels belonging to different countries are assembled at the said city, the Sultan of which is a Mahommedan.

£1,250 of our money. (Histoire des Voyages, vol. i. p. 110.) It is now farmed of the Persian Shah by the Sultan of Máskat, together with Bunder Abbas, Minau, and several other places on the mainland, for a yearly payment of 16,000 Toomans £7,600; but it has lost all its former trade and prosperity, and its population consists of about four hundred inhabitants, mostly employed in the salt trade and as fishermen. The island has no water except what is saved in reservoirs during the rains. There are a number of these reservoirs in good repair, and the ruins of some hundreds, showing what the place was in former times. The old Portuguese lighthouse is still standing, though fast falling to decay. Large quantities of salt are exported from the island to all parts of the Persian Gulf and the coasts of Arabia. The fort is garrisoned by a hundred men belonging to the Sultan of Máskat. The channel between Hormuz and the mainland directly opposite is only four miles broad. Between the island and Bunder Abbâs it averages between eleven and twelve.

1 This is a correct description of the pearl fishery as it exists at the present day.

THE CHAPTER CONCERNING THE SULTAN OF ORMUS, AND OF THE CRUELTY OF THE SON AGAINST THE SULTAN HIS FATHER, HIS MOTHER, AND HIS BROTHERS.

At the time when I visited this country there happened that which you shall hear. The Sultan of Ormus had eleven male children. The youngest was considered to be simple, that is, half a fool: the eldest was looked upon as a devil unchained. Also the said Sultan had brought up two slaves, the sons of Christians, that is, of those of Prester John, whom he had purchased when quite young, and he loved them like his own children.1 They were gallant cavaliers and lords of castles. One night, the eldest son of the Sultan put out the eyes of his father, mother, and all his brothers, excepting the half-witted one; then he carried them into the chamber of his father and mother, and put fire in the midst, and burnt the chamber with the bodies and all that was therein. Early in the morning what had taken place became known, and the city arose at the rumour, and he fortified himself in the palace, and proclaimed himself Sultan. The younger brother, who was considered a fool, did not, however, show himself to be such a fool as he was supposed to be; for, hearing what had taken place, he took refuge in a Moorish mosque, saying: "Vualla occuane saithan uchatelabu eculo cuane," that is, "O God, my brother is a devil; he has killed my father, my mother, and all my brothers, and after having killed them he has burnt them."2 At the expiration of fifteen days the city became tranquil.

1 Habeshi, or Abyssinian slaves, mostly of Christian parentage, were the most trusted and favourite soldiers of the sultans and other chiefs of Arabia at this period. They were also imported largely into India, and frequently acquired considerable influence in the courts of the native princes.

2 W'Allah, akhûna shaitân: hua kútel abûh, wa-kul akhwânana. By God! our brother is a devil: he has killed his father, and all my brothers.

The Sultan sent for one of the slaves above mentioned and said to him: "Thale inte Mahometh.” The slave, who

was named Mahometh, answered: "Escult iasidi,” that is, "What dost thou say, lord? Said the Sultan: "An ne Soldan?" that is, "Am I Sultan ?" Mahometh replied: "Heu valla siti inte Soldan," that is, "Yes, by God, thou art Sultan." Then the Sultan took him by the hand and made much of him, and said to him: " Roa chatel zaibei anneiati arba ochan sechala," that is, "Go and kill thy companion, and I will give thee five castles." Mahometh replied: "Iasidi anue iacul menau men saibi theletin sane vualla sidi ancasent," that is, "O lord, I have eaten with my companion thirty years and acted with him, I cannot bring my mind to do such a thing." Then said the Sultan: "Well, let it alone." Four days afterwards, the said Sultan sent for the other slave, who was named Caim, and made the same speech to him that he had made to his companion, that is, that he should go and kill. "Bizemele," Caim said at once, "erechman erachin Iasidi," that is, "So be it, lord, in the name of God;" and then he armed himself secretly and went immediately to find Mahometh his companion. When Mahometh saw him, he looked him fixedly in the face, and said to him: "O traitor, thou canst not deny it, for I detect thee by thy countenance; but look now, for I will slay thee sooner than that thou slay me." Caim, who saw himself discovered and known, drew forth his dagger, and threw it at the feet of Mahometh, and falling

1 Taûl anta, Muhammed. Come hither, Muhammed. Aish kult, ya sidi? What do you say, sir? Ana sultán? Am I sultan ? Ay w'Allah, sidi, anta sultán. Yes, sir, you are sultan.

* Ruh aktal sûhibek, wa-ana 'aätîk arbäa aw khams kaläa. Go kill your comrade, and I will give you four or five castles.

W'Allah, sidi,

3 Ya sidi, ána akált mäa'u min sabi,―thlûthin sana. ankássir. Oh, sir, I have eaten with him from childhood,-thirty years. By God, sir, I shall fail.

1 B'ism-Illah, er-Rahmân, er-Rahîm. In the name of God, the Pitiful, the Compassionate. A formula frequently used to express assent.

H

on his knees before him said: "O, my lord, pardon me although I deserve death, and if it seem good to thee take these arms and kill me, for I came to kill thee." Mahometh replied: "It may be well said that thou art a traitor, having been with me, and acted with me, and eaten together with me for thirty years, and then at last to wish to put me to death in so vile a manner. Thou poor creature, dost thou not see that this man is a devil. Rise, however, for I pardon thee. But in order that thou mayest understand, know that this man urged me, three days ago, to kill thee, but I would not in any way consent. Now, leave all to God, but go and do as I shall tell thee. Go to the Sultan, and tell him that thou hast slain me." Caim replied: "I am content," and immediately went to the Sultan. When the Sultan saw him he said to him: "Well, hast thou slain thy friend?" Caim answered: "Yes, sir, by God." Said the Sultan: "Come here," and he went close to the Sultan, who seized him by the breast and killed him by blows of his dagger. Three days afterwards Mahometh armed himself secretly and went to the Sultan's chamber, who, when he saw him, was disturbed and exclaimed: "O dog, son of a dog, art thou still alive?" Said Mahometh: "I am alive, in spite of thee, and I will kill thee, for thou art worse than a dog or a devil ;" and in this way, with their arms in their hands, they fought awhile. At length Mahometh killed the Sultan, and then fortified himself in the palace. And because he was so much beloved in the city, the people all ran to the palace crying out: "Long live Mahometh the Sultan!" and he continued Sultan about twenty days. When these twenty days were passed, he sent for all the lords and merchants of the city, and spoke to them in this wise: "That that which he had done he had been obliged to do; that he well knew that he had no right to the supreme power, and he entreated all the people that they would allow him to make king that son who was considered crazy;"

and thus he was made king. It is true, however, that Mahometh governs everything. All the city said: "Surely this man must be the friend of God.” Wherefore he was made governor of the city and of the Sultan, the Sultan being of the condition above mentioned.1 You must know that there are generally in this city four hundred foreign merchants, who traffic in silks, pearls, jewels, and spices. The common food of this city consists more of rice than of bread, because corn does not grow in this place.

THE CHAPTER CONCERNING ERI IN CORAZANI OF PERSIA, AND OF ITS RICHES, AND OF THE ABUNDANCE OF MANY THINGS, AND ESPECIALLY OF RHUBARB.

Having heard this lamentable event, and seen the customs of the abovenamed city and island of Ormus, departing thence I passed into Persia, and travelling for twelve days I found a city called Eri, and the country is called Cora

1 I have not succeeded in finding any historical notices corroborative of the events recorded in this chapter; but the following extract from the Histoire des Voyages, referring to the capture of the island by Albuquerque in 1508, four years subsequent to Varthema's visit, tends to confirm several of the principal facts narrated :-" Albuquerque trouva sur le trône Sayf Addin, jeune prince d'environ douze ans, dont les affaires étoient gouvernées par un esclave adroit et courageux." Vol. i. p. 109.

* Eri or Heri is the ancient name of Herât, and the question is, whether Varthema means that city, and, if so, whether he personally visited it. His description is sufficiently accurate to warrant an inference in the affirmative. Herât at the time was the capital of Khorassan, and the residence of Sultân Husein Mîrza, a descendant of Timour. Its commercial and general prosperity under that enlightened ruler has been perpetuated by the celebrated historian Khondemir, and the natural resources of the country correspond with our traveller's account of them. Moreover, Varthema speaks as an eye-witness, and thus far I have not discovered a single instance inclining me to doubt his testimony as such. Besides, there appears no sufficient reason why, if he had not personally visited Herât, he should not have described it as he does