building occupied by the Bank of Bengal, where 300 clerks are employed.

It appears to me that India is likely now to take a step in advance; education, railways, newspapers and other influences are lifting it up as it were, breaking down old prejudices, letting in the light, and removing some of those causes which have hitherto had such a depressing effect on the population. The principal desideratum is a policy of peace, which will enable the Government to provide out of surplus revenuefirst for the relief of the miserable masses from such taxes as that on salt, which bears so heavily on the poor; and then for the development of vast districts of the country, as yet neglected, by means of railroads and otherwise, so as to increase production, and avert famines. Such beneficial measures are out of the question if millions are to be thrown away on absolutely unnecessary and unjust frontier wars

wars which make enemies of proud neighbouring races, and which cost India infinitely more than the mere actual expenditure shown in the military accounts. It will be impossible

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largely to extend education, to open up communications, to provide the requisite irrigation, or to do many other things absolutely necessary for the future well-being of the people, unless there is an end to this system of picking quarrels for which they have got to pay. The natives with whom I have conversed, Hindoo and Mahometan as well, feel strongly on this point.

The recent endeavours of the Government to stimulate private enterprise, especially in the construction of railroads, instead of making them itself, are theoretically, and from a politicoeconomic point of view, quite right; but I doubt very much whether it will be possible, for a considerable time to come, to get much done in this way, unless the State is prepared to grant a guarantee, say, for a limited period of years; and I should be surprised were the able and judicious men now at the head of affairs here to insist too strongly on Government refusing all aid.

With respect to taxation in general, we at home must never forget that great considera

tion should be paid to the prevailing sentiment among educated natives, although it may appear to us founded on erroneous principles. On this point let me quote a few words from the Indian Spectator, a well-conducted newspaper published in Bombay :-" One important fact seems often to be forgotten by our rulers: that the views, opinions, and systems of free civilised countries of Europe, however good from the point of European politics and European economy, are not exactly or even approximately the views, opinions, and systems which ought to be circulated or enforced in a semi-civilised Asiatic country. It is needless at this time of the day to remind the authorities how vastly different are the political, social, and even economic conditions of this country from others. It has been more than once stated in these columns how dangerous it is to govern India on European principles." These cautions must be kept in mind in dealing with such matters as the tariff, the opium revenue, and the income-tax.

As far as I can learn, the question of the employment of natives in official life is making

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fair and satisfactory progress. I find no disposition whatever to discourage it on the part of those in power. One difficulty standing in the way of its more rapid extension is, that most of the better-educated classes amongst them are zemindars, or rich landed proprietors, whose interests are considered by the masses of the cultivators to be antagonistic to their own; so much so indeed that the latter are accustomed to look in preference to Europeans for justice.

G

CHAPTER VIII.

THE TEA-PLANTATIONS, DARJEELING.

THERE is an excellent custom at Government House, in Calcutta, of presenting each person living in the house with a printed list of the guests to be present at the dinner parties, so that you know whom you are to meet; and I thought that this might be very well imitated at some of the London entertainments.

We left for an excursion in the Himalayas on Saturday, 7th January, and were driven to the Sealdah Railway Station in the Viceregal chariot with the postillions. The scenery for many miles was more Oriental, as far as foliage was concerned, than any we had yet seen in India : dense jungle of bamboo alternating with gardens of palms, bananas, and mangoes, with occasional patches of wheat and tobacco; then came wide plains, with immense numbers of cattle and buffaloes feeding on almost invisible stubble; rows of fine tamarind-trees; picturesque houses