Gothic pile, with an embattled tower; decorated with twelve pinnacles; and containing a fine monument to the memory of Sir John Popham, chief justice of the Court of King's-Bench in the conclusion of Elizabeth's reign. The effigies of himself and his lady are sculptured at length upon the tomb.

Quitting Somersetshire, about three miles from Wellington, we entered Devonshire at Blewet'scross; and after a further progress of ten miles, reached the town of CULLUMPTON; remarkable for its bandsome church, with the beautiful chapel it contains, built by John Lane, a wealthy clothier, in the fourteenth century; a structure one should have thought far beyond the means of an humble tradesman, had we not recollected that the woollen manufacture was first established in these parts, and confined to them for a long period, during which time immense fortunes were made by those who preserved the monopoly of this lucrative branch of trade. We were also much struck by a venerable house in the town, a well-preserved specimen of the architecture of the fifteenth century.

The magnificent scenery of Devonshire now opened upon us; sweeping hills and broad luxuriant vallies, backed to the north and west by the dark irregular summits of Exmoor. The picturesque effect, too, of the high banks which occasionally

bounded the road on either side, was not lost upon us; where the combination of the red highly-carbonated earth, and the green foliage spread over its face, produced a most agreeable harmony of colouring. The vivid vegetation of the low parts of Devonshire is indeed almost proverbial with artists; and the chief of English painters, Sir Joshua Reynolds, used to assert that the verdure in the neighbourhood of Exeter, Bath, and Bristol, was the richest in the kingdom.

In the happiest part of this scenery stands Killerton, the elegant mansion of Sir Thomas Acland, skreened to the north-east by a superb tract of wood, and commanding a view, if not extensive, at least beautifully diversified.

Evening had almost overtaken us before we gained the summit of Stoke hill, almost two miles from Exeter; but she had not as yet so completely drawn her "gradual dusky veil" over the scenery, as to rob us of the pleasure, or prevent the admiration, which it is so well calculated to afford and excite. Immediately before us lay the suburbs of EXETER, its venerable city, and majestic cathedral. The frowning heights of Exmoor closed the view to the north-west. To the left, the river Exe rolled tranquilly through its vallies to the sea, which formed the horizontal line in that quarter. The interme

diate space was filled up with " hamlets, brown and "dim-discovered spires;" meads, corn-fields, and woods, " uncertain if beheld,” and, in a word, all the other constituents of a grand picture, " stretched out immense," and infinitely diversified.

Has it ever been your fate, my friend, to enter a large inn at the close of day, when all its apartments were completely occupied, and every one of its attendants with more business upon his individual hands than three could well perform? If so, you will figure to yourself the situation of Wand myself when we reached the L- Inn, hungry and jaded, and found ourselves in a house that made up seventy beds, and whose waiters were as thick as rabbits in a warren, but where no arts of persuasion, or airs of authority, could have procured the least attention to our pressing wants. But how efficacious are the virtues of patience and goodhumour in remedying "the miseries of human life!" By having recourse to these, our inconveniencies began gradually to disappear; and we at length found ourselves in possession of all the accommodation we could have wished, and treated with all the hospitality, to say the least of it, that our humble appearance deserved.

As the term of our absence from home was limited, and our chief attention intended to be directed

to Cornwall, our stay in Exeter was not delayed beyond the time necessary to catch a glance at its many curiosities. We took a transient survey of the massive Saxon cathedral, and its numerous interesting monuments. We ascended to Rougemont, which having served the purpose of a Roman, and poffibly anterior to that time, of a British post, was afterwards the residence of the West-Saxon monarchs; devolved then upon the Earls of Cornwall; and contains now the civil and criminal Courts for the county. We rambled through the gardens of Mr. Granger, by the Castle-gate, on the scite of the ditch, the striking beauties of which are formed from a combination of natural charms, the remains of antiquity, and the improvements of modern taste. Mr. Edward Upham, with a ready and kind politeness that increased the weight of the obligation, gratified us with a sight of the Roman Penates, or domestic gods, which were dug up on his premises; and this classical feast was still further heightened by the large and valuable collection of Keiserman's Drawings of Ancient Remains in Italy, which we were permitted to inspect by the obliging civility of its owner, Mr. Russell, jun.

The road to Chudleigh conducted us over HallDown, an elevated, dreary heath, but commanding a view of the utmost magnificence; a magnificence,

in the words of Johnson, like that ascribed to a Chinese plantation, the magnificence of vast extent and endless diversity. With all its attractions, how. ever, we congratulated ourselves that we had to traverse its broad and exposed summit in the summer instead of the winter; when it is so beaten by the fury of the south-westerly gales, that the traveller is scarcely able to maintain his footing; or so covered by a sheet of snow, that he can only discover the proper road by the posts which are ranged along its side for his direction.

One of the chief characteristics of the scenery of Devonshire is the striking contrast perpetually recurring in it of hopeless barrenness to extreme fertility, of bare and craggy mountains to luxuriant wooded vallies. An example of this was before us when we descended from the region of storm and sterility just described, into the delightful Vale of Chudleigh. Here every thing is concentrated, that can delight the eye of the painter: rock, wood, water, meads, and fields waving with abundant harvests. It is a tract, indeed, to which may be applied with the utmost justice the terse description of the Lacedæmonian reign of Amycles, by Polybius, τοπος καλιδενδροτατος, και καλικαρπο TaTOS, a place at once most beautifully wooded, and most exuberantly productive.