ter Roemer, of Zurich; Feer-Herzog, a National Councillor; the German poet, Kinkel; General Vogelli, of the Swiss army; Mr. Nicholas Fish, the American Charge d'Affaires at Berne, and many prominent Swiss citizens.

When the cloth was removed, Consul Byers, after a few appropriate remarks, asked his guests to drink the health of his renowned countryman, "who, having led half a million of men to victory, and having governed a great nation for eight years, needs no praise from me." General Grant's health was then drank with all the honors. The Burgomaster expressed, in a brief and happy speech, the interest with which the Swiss people followed General Grant's career as a soldier and as President of the great Republic, and said that the honor done and the pleasure given to the citizens of Zurich by ex-President Grant's visit was very great.

In response, General Grant expressed a deep sense of pleasure and honor at meeting such distinguished Swiss gentlemen. He thanked the citizens of Zurich, through their Mayor, for their cordial reception, which he regarded as a symbol of the good feeling existing between the two countries. The General concluded by proposing the health of the President of the Federal Council and nation, and the prosperity of the city of Zurich.

Feer-Herzog replied in an eloquent allusion to the amity existing between the two countries, and ended by proposing the health of President Hayes. Mr. Nicholas Fish responded, testifying to "the memory cherished by all true United States citizens of the Switzers who fought and died during the American war-giving their lives and services from the pure, unselfish sympathy of their hearts and their inborn love of freedom. The acts of those heroes are to Americans the guarantee of Switzerland's sympathy in the hour of need and of despair."

Other speeches were made, and the dinner was, alto

gether, a thoroughly enjoyable occasion. In every respect General Grant's reception in the land of William Tell has been as hearty as in any place in Europe. The General left for Paris the following morning.

f

CHAPTER XXIX.

GENERAL GRANT IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

General Grant arrived at the French capital on September 25, from Belfort. He was met at the station by Minister Noyes, ex-Governor Fairchild, ex-Governor McCormick, and other American officials. The General was in excellent health and spirits, and had experienced so little fatigue during his journey that, after dining en famille, he strolled along the boulevards for more than two hours.

A grand dinner was given to the ex-President October 3 by Mr. Edward F. Noyes, the United States Minister, at the Legation. Among the invited guests were the following distinguished Americans: General and Mrs. Grant, John Welsh, Minister to England; John A. Kasson, Minister to Austria; J. Meredith Read, Charge d'Affaires to Greece; General Hazen, United States Army; General Lucius Fairchild, Consul-General at Paris; ex-Governor McCormick, Commissioner-General to the Paris Exposition; ex-Governor Smith, of New Hampshire, and Miss Waite, daughter of the Chief Justice of the Supreme Court of the United States.

General Grant, having abandoned his contemplated trip to India for the present, concluded to remain in Paris and vicinity for the winter, and planned a month's tour through Spain, Portugal and Algiers.

The ex-President and party arrived in Vittoria, having entered Spain from France by the Bayonne route. The little town of Irun, which is just over the frontier,

afforded the first glimpse of Spanish life and character. Its neat railway station was draped with flags and bunting, and on the platform was a group of officers of the royal guard, standing apart from those privileged citizens who had been admitted within the barriers. Beyond, clearly seen through the gates and station windows, struggling for a glimpse of the distinguished visitor, were the villagers and the country people, who, denied admission to the yard, were none the less active in their demonstrations of curiosity.

As the train drew up at the platform, General Grant alighted from his carriage. The ranking officer of the del egation, a general on the staff of Alfonzo XII., advanced, and, saluting the visitor, welcomed him, in the King's name, to the Iberian Peninsula. He stated that he was directed by His Majesty to place at the General's disposal the special railway carriage of the King, and to beg an acceptance of the same. General Grant expressed his thanks in a few words, and accepted the proffered courtesy. The train moved out of the little village toward the war-begrimed city of San Sebastian - the last stronghold of the Carlists.

At San Sebastian, General Grant was received by Emilio Castelar, ex-President of the Spanish Republic. To the well known statesman and journalist, General Grant was exceedingly cordial. He concluded his remarks by saying: "Believe me, sir, the name of Castelar is espe cially honored in America." Here, as at Irun, were gathered many people to see General Grant, and he was presented to the town officials and the distinguished citizens. The contracted harbor reflected the green of the tree-covered hills that encircle it so nearly, and beyond the cone-like isle at its mouth was the sheen of the noonday sun on the Bay of Biscay.

Leaving this place, the road leads southward toward Tolosa and Vergara. At both of these stations a squad of

soldiers was stationed. The usual military guard had been doubled in honor of the American General. After wind ing about the hills beyond the station of Tolosa, the train suddenly leaves the defiles behind and smoothly skirts the side of a great hill, giving the occupants of the carriages a grand view to the southward. Near at hand are seen the peaks of the Pyrenees-only the extreme western spur of the range, to be sure, but very formidable looking barriers to railway engineering. Altogether, the journey is a charming, Swiss-like ride, creeping, as the traveler does, through what were once dangerous mountain paths, and where, even yet, the railway coaches are alternately in the wildest forests of scraggy pine and the long-leaved chestnut.

Passing the summit, the descent southward is soon marked by a radical change in the aspect of the country. Villages are met more frequently, until, winding toward the west through the Welsh-looking hills, the train dashes into Vittoria. Here the General was received on alighting by the civil and military authorities attached to the King's military and civil staff. He repaired at once to his hotel. The annual manoeuvres of the Spanish ariny were being held here, and the King and his entire staff were in Vittoria. At night the General strolled out through the tangled streets of the old part of the town. He inspected the bazaars in the Plaza Nueva, and the pretty streets in the new portion of the city. The Alameda was crowded with people, and the General seemed to enjoy the life al fresco almost as much as the citizens of the capital of Alava.

The following morning General Grant was received by King Alfonzo at the Ayuntamiento, or residence of the Alcade, quite a palace in its exterior and interior adornments. The King, who speaks English fluently, said that he had long had a curiosity to meet the General, whose civil and military career was so familiar to him. He said there was no man living whom Spain would more gladly