zoological garden afterward, which was attended by many thousands of people.

On the 16th, General Grant spent several days in the immediate vicinity of Lucerne and Interlaken, Switzerland, whence he made excursions to the mountains in the vicinity. On the 24th, we find him at Berne, Switzerland, where he was received by the President of the Swiss Confederation. On the 27th, he was at Geneva, where he laid the corner stone of a new American Protestant church in that city. Large crowds were present, and hundreds of American flags were displayed from the windows of citizens' houses. The authorities of the city, and also the English and American clergymen of Geneva, were present. Speeches complimentary to General Grant were made by M. Carteret, President of Geneva, and by several of the principal clergymen. General Grant said, in replying to the toast given to America, that the greatest honor he had received since landing in Europe was to be among Americans, and in a republic, and in a city where so great a service had been rendered to the Americans by a Swiss citizen in the settlement of a question which might have produced war, but which left no rancor on either side. On the 30th, the General left Geneva for the North Italian lakes, thence to Ragatz, where he spent several days for rest and recuperation with his brother-in-law, M. J. Cramer, American Minister to Denmark.

On the 5th of August, General Grant went to Pallanza, on Lake Maggiore; thence to Lake Como, stopping at Bellagio; thence to Varese. At each of these points he was received with great enthusiasm, his stay being one grand round of festivities, each city seeming to vie with the other in the hospitalities offered. At Lake Maggiore, addresses were made by the Mayor and an officer who served under General Garibaldi. General Grant, in his reply, referred to the exceeding hospitality he had received, praised

the general conduct of the people so far as he had seen them, expressed his delight at the grand and lovely scenes that had met his eye at every turn since he had crossed the Alps, and concluded by saying, "There is one Italian whose hand I wish especially to shake, and that man is General Garibaldi." This allusion was greeted with a perfect storm of applause.

On the 18th, the General visited Copenhagen, where he was received with distinguished honors, and at Antwerp a like cordial reception was given.

On the 25th, he returned to England, having made a hurried and fatiguing continental tour, where he rested, previous to accepting the urgent and flattering invitation to visit Scotland.

The fact that General Grant is named Ulysses, and that, in making "the grand tour," has suggested a classic comparison to the good-natured jokers of the obvious. It seems, too, as though the General had determined to keep up the character of the wandering king of Ithaca; for the heavy English journals, after slowly lifting their eyebrows to the point of astonishment that Ulysses the Silent could speak at all, have found the word "wise" to apply to what he did utter. Indeed, one of them believed that the term silent was ironical, and as proof quoted from "his remarkable speech" that sentence about fighting it out on a certain line if it took all summer. Perhaps if we use a society. phrase, and say that General Grant has been "happy" in his recent after-dinner utterances, we shall come nearer the mark. When there are certain unpleasant topics that might be touched on, it is "happy" to avoid them at such times; and when the speaker who ignores them plunges into platitudes about "common blood and kindred peoples," he may be called felicitous when he is only politely adroit. In England, for instance, the General kept clear of blockade runners and Confederate scrip, and, when the Alabama was

forced before him, only touched on that piratical craft as a sort of blessing in disguise to both peoples. On the other hand, he was overwhelmingly unctuous in calling the English our blood relations, making the glasses dance on the festive board with the thunderous applause he evoked from noble lords and lofty commoners.

In Frankfort, however, he had a chance to say a "happy" thing, and he said it. In Frankfort they bought our bonds, when it was vital to the nation that our securi ties should find purchasers. To be sure, they made a good thing of it, for they bought them cheap; but England and poor generals had cheapened them. Hence it was a "happy" thing for the soldier who brought our "boys" and our bonds "out of the wilderness"-the former to Richmond, and the latter to par and beyond-to tell the Frankforters how well they had stood by the Union in its darkest days. There was much good German blood spilled in the cause of the Union, so that his hearers were aware that the General referred to heart-strings as well as purse-strings in his compliment to them. So, also, at Geneva, his compliment to the representative whose "casting vote" turned the scales in the Geneva award was not forgotten; in fact, the General seemed to be in a "happy" vein, complimenting without stint. This change, or rather drawing out of General Grant's thoughts, will surprise none more than his intimate friends, who have known him only by works, not words.

CHAPTER XXIII.

RETURN TO GREAT BRITAIN.

The freedom of the city of Edinburgh was presented to General Grant on the 31st of August. He left London in

a Pullman car. On the way from London four hundred miles- the scenery was exceedingly attractive. All through England and in the south of Scotland, the country is a perfect garden, and only when you get among the chilly hills, valleys and crags of northern Scotland, do you feel that you are getting into the open country. What a pity that there are no forests to cover these beautiful and historic mountains, where in centuries gone by the horns of the leaders summoned the clans to bloody work!

The reception given to General Grant as each station. was reached, was whole-souled and fully meant hospitality. At Carlisle the dinner stopping-place-at Galashiels, Melrose, Harwick, and a number of smaller towns in Scotland, there were expressions of joy and enthusiasm that reminded. one of the railroad receptions that General Grant gets at the towns of Illinois and Ohio. It seemed as though they knew him perfectly well-his face, his history, etc.- for they recognized him everywhere, and demanded as much handshaking as could be done in the limited time the train was to stay. Then the cheers and hurrahs always sounded in the distance above the whistle of the locomotive. Mrs. Grant was quite cheerful and talkative. She looked very much better than when she left Washington, though she said she was always in good health there. Washington

has a slightly malarial atmosphere, and the complexion of a Washingtonian changes for the better after a trip to Europe. She enjoyed her European trip. She said her lines of association there had always fallen in pleasant places, and that she had been greatly pleased with every acquaintance she made in Europe. Mrs. Grant is a quiet, rather reserved lady, but one who impresses her associates by her kind nature, her broad views upon the subject under discussion, be it commonplace or important, and her sensible ideas of life. She sprang from one of the best families of the Mississippi Valley, well known and highly respected since a hundred years and more ago, and her early training was not lost. All the ladies who met her and became her acquaintances at the White House, loved her, from first to

last.

The freedom of the city of Edinburgh was presented to ex-President Grant by Lord Provost Sir James Falshaw, in Free Assembly Hall, two thousand persons being present. In reply to the Lord Provost's speech, General Grant said:

"I am so filled with emotion that I scarcely know how to thank you for the honor conferred upon me by making me a burgess of this ancient city of Edinburgh. I feel that it is a great compliment to me and to my country. Had I the proper eloquence, I might dwell somewhat on the history of the great men you have produced, on the numerous citizens of this city and of Scotland who have gone to America, and the record they have made. We are proud of Scotchmen as citizens of America. They make good citizens of our country, and they find it profitable to themselves. I again thank you for the honor conferred upon me."

On September 1st, General Grant and party visited Tay Bridge. One of the most striking features of the view obtained from the deck of the little steamer is that of the