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well trained-a marvellous sight, especially as we saw them, when all out on parade in a wide field, each with his mamouts or keepers. The cost of each elephant would probably make a fat living for a hundred Hindu families. The depôts where captured elephants are kept are called Khedda. They are usually captured in Eastern Bengal by being driven into V-shaped traps or corrals; and by degrees are broken in and tamed so as to become. the most majestic and docile of beasts of burden. On state occasions these elephants are clad in the costliest cloths, surmounted by gilded howdahs.

But, of course, the centre of interest in Lucknow is the Residency, where, in 1857, two thousand two hundred souls, consisting of nearly a thousand European residents, with their women and children and native servants, who came in for refuge, and five hundred English soldiers, under Sir Henry Lawrence, with the same number of native soldiers who remained faithful, kept a large army of sepoys at bay for six months.

The building is a large three-storied house, with two towers, and t

walls, standing on an elevation. Its grounds cover some acres, with scattered buildings, and a rampart. It is a ruin, a melancholy spectacle; and the inscriptions are most affecting, "Here Sir Henry Lawrence was wounded; "Here Sir Henry Lawrence died." We went down to the huge cellars,

where the women and children and the sick took refuge. Marks of shot and shell are on every hand, but Nature has mantled the spot with verdure. Near is the burial-ground, sweet with blooming roses, but full of touching monuments raised over the remains of those who died of disease or were shot during the siege. July was the most fatal month. July was the most fatal month. On the fourth of

LUCKNOW.

that month, Lawrence, the beloved, the adored commander, fell. His tomb has this inscription, embodying his own dying words: "Here lies Henry Lawrence, who tried to do his duty. May the Lord have mercy on his soul!" Nearly three months passed after his death before Havelock came to the rescue.

Soon afterwards, this great general himself died of disease, brought on by the hardships of his march.

His tomb is at the Alambagh, and over it a monument erected by his widow and children, with the inscription: "He showed how the profession of a Christian could be combined with the duties of a soldier." To his friend Outram, before he died, he said, "For more than forty years I have so ruled my life, that when death came, I might face it without fear."

What with beautiful parks, capital roads, good shops, and a large civil and military population, Lucknow, in spite of these sad memories, is, we are told, extremely popular. There is plenty of society, and plenty of amusement. Boating, shooting, games of all sorts, are in vogue; Badminton parties, races, and "a magnificent ball-room with a perfect floor." Out of a native taxation amounting to twenty lakhs of rupees, the authorities of these North-West Provinces spend three and a half in "conservancy," including lighting, repairing, and watering the roads, and seven and a half on works of public utility; so that the European residents are well provided for. In the hottest months they have within easy reach by way of railway to Bareilly, the refreshing hill station of Naini Tal.

Naini Tal is in the Himalayan division of Kumaon, and is the resort of the Government of the North-West Provinces during the hot weather. The scenery as we ride up is lovely; fine trees, drooping creepers, orchids, and tree ferns. The road winds round hills rising above hills, all densely