and fifteen feet, and the height of the great tower is one hundred and ninety-two feet. "Whitewash and paint," says Mr. Fergusson, “have done their worst to add vulgarity to forms already sufficiently ungraceful, and this, the most famous, is also the most disappointing of Northern Hindu temples." It was erected in A.D. 1174, and is the latest of the Orissa group of temples. It is dedicated to Vishnu, and pilgrims are continually on their way through Bengal to and from this temple. It is calculated that ten thousand pilgrims annually die either of disease or fatigue and want at Puri, or on the return journey. Those who live bring back with them umbrellas made of cane and palm-leaves, bundles of painted rattan canes, and backbones of cuttle-fish, to show that they have been on the sea-shore. These fish-bones are called by the poetic name of "ocean foam." The street leading to the temple is full of sacred buildings, and the inhabitants of the town number thirty thousand. Three wooden images of revolting aspect, six feet high, represent the god Juggernaut, his brother, and his sister; and once a year, in the month of March, these are taken through the town, each idol in its car, that of Juggernaut being thirty-four feet high, with sixteen wheels. On these occasions a hundred and fifty thousand pilgrims are assembled. The English Government has interfered to put an end to the self-immolations beneath its wheels. Mounted police armed with heavy whips accompany the car in its progress, and when a frenzied devotee throws himself in its way the whip is applied, and he immediately jumps up and runs away, forgetting that if he is willing to be killed he should be willing to bear the lash. The tradition of a bone of Krishna being contained in the image is regarded as a as a Brahmanical form of Buddhist relic-worship, and the three images are supposed to be only the Buddhist trinity, Buddha, Dharma, Sanga. The idol is, in fact, an imitation of the Buddhist emblem. Buddhism formerly existed in Orissa, and the tooth-relic of Buddha preserved at Puri. Everything at Puri is redolent of Buddhism. Another significant vestige of this system is the absence of all recognition of caste during the festivals. In the neighbourhood of Juggernaut, on the coast, is the so-called Black Pagoda at Kanarak, of which only the beautiful threestoried porch remains, carved with elegance and variety. Orissa, indeed, abounds with temples, all of the same type, and very different from those of Southern India. The towers, or vimanas, have a curved outline; they are not storied, and the buildings have no pillars. The Temple of Juggernaut is the latest, and the oldest is supposed to be the great Temple of Bhuvaneswar.

"The Temple of Bhuvaneswar is," says Fergusson, "perhaps the finest example of a purely Hindu temple in India." It is three hundred feet long by seventy-five broad. It consisted of a vimana, or tower, and a porch. It has a singularly solemn and pleasing aspect. Its height is

JUGGERNAUT.

one hundred and eighty feet, wholly of stone, and every inch of the surface is covered with elaborate carving. "Infinite labour bestowed on every detail was the mode in which a Hindu thought he could render his temple most worthy of the deity, and, whether he was right or wrong, the effect of the whole is marvellously beautiful.”

On Sunday, as we were passing Juggernaut Puri, our ship's company of passengers and officers were quietly gathered on deck to offer our common prayers to the great Father in heaven, to read His Word and to hear His Gospel. Again it was my lot to conduct service at sea, and the heaving of the ship formed a natural accompaniment to the lessons and the sermon. On board was an officer high in rank, and inspector of military schools, who spoke of what he had seen of the brutal treatment of the natives. A passing Hindu, he said, was rudely taken to task by Captain for not making a salaam to him. "Why should I?" said the man; "you have conquered our race, and I won't salaam." "Let us see the general," said the captain. The general said, "Make a salaam, sir.” The man still firmly but calmly refused, and the general seized him by the neck, threw him to the ground, buried his face in the dust, and ordered the man fifty lashes. Thus by sheer brute force was this Hindu punished for an independence which we should honour in an Englishman. The mild Hindu submits to the English as to a conquering race, and all he can do is to be patient and bide his time. If not subdued by justice and kindness, he will seek his revenge some day.

In the afternoon we anchored at False Point, outside the mud-locked harbour at the mouth of the Mahanadi river. It is a dismal spot, with a house on the beach and a lighthouse in the distance. A few cargo boats and native vessels were swinging at anchor and rolling lazily with the tide. From this place a steam-launch runs, or rather crawls up the river to Cuttack, the capital of Orissa, whither some of our passengers were bound. When Akbar built Attock (or Attack) on the Indus, Kattack and Attack were spoken of as the two extremes of the Mogul Empire. Seventy miles beyond Cuttack is the famous Barmul Pass, eight miles long, between peaked ridges and hills covered with jungle, through which the Mahanadi flows rapidly. The scenery is said somewhat to resemble the Lower Danube.

And now weighing anchor, and taking our pilot on board, we started up that narrow and dangerous branch of the Ganges called the Hoogly. After stopping at Diamond Harbour, a turn or reach in the river with its signal flagstaff, where particulars are given as to the height of the tide at the bars, we made our way cautiously up past "James and Mary," the most dangerous of the rapids, all hands on board being in readiness. to let go the anchor, if we should ground. At Garden Reach our ship was turned round, and was steamed stern foremost up to Government House, CALCUTTA, amidst a crowd of shipping reminding one of Liverpool.

Calcutta, ninety miles from the sea, and on the east bank of the Hoogly, which here flows directly south, is a city not two centuries old. It was founded by Job Charnock, who set up a factory here in 1690, married a

Hindu wife, and as to religion led a Hindu life. In 1742 the famous ditch cut to protect the settlement against the Mahratta cavalry. It ran along the ground now marked by the Circular Road. The settlement, in spite of this, was captured by the Nawab, when, on the 19th of June, 1756, a