Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1858, by ROBERT B. MINTURN, JR., In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District of New York. TIBKVBA MEM AOKK PREFACE. THE following work has grown out of a six months' tour in India, just before the outbreak of the recent mutiny. The materials were principally derived from letters intended only for the perusal of my family. I have been induced to give my observations a more permanent form and a wider circulation, both on account of the interest which has been excited in the subject by the events of the last year, and because, considering the size and population of the Indian peninsula, its immense capabilities of production, and the important position that it may hereafter hold in the economy and commerce of the world, it certainly has not hitherto attracted in this country its due share of attention. The policy and administration of the East India Company's government are so generally misunderstood, and so hopelessly unpopular, that it seems a thankless task to say a word in its favour. I have stated, however, only what I believe to be the truth, after the most careful investigation which I could give..I do not hold, with some, that the East India Company was the only perfect government in modern times; but, on the other hand, I believe that posterity, if not, the present generation, will admire and wonder at the sagacity and wisdom of a policy which has enabled fifty thousand men (fer, until: the late difficulties, there have never been more Englishmen in India) to conquer so vast a country, and hold in subjection myriads of men, of most opposite national character, generally civilized, often warlike, and defended, in more than one instance, by the science and skill of the art of war as practised in Europe. I am aware that many things which I have stated with regard to the character of the natives of India may appear improbable or incredible. All I can say is, that no European can ever comprehend an Asiastic, and that the more their peculiarities are studied, the more inconsistent they appear. How can Englishmen or Americans ever rightly appreciate people who have no expression in any of their languages for "India," the country in which they live; no equivalent for "thankyou," and no word for "patriotism," and many such ideas. The last five chapters in the book contain statistical and other information, which would perhaps be most valuable, if perused before the description of the country itself. Since this work has been written, the East India Company has ceased to exist as a government. One of the Queen's ministers is now in name, as he has long been in fact, the supreme authority in Indian affairs. The very slight modifications introduced into the system of government by the new act is the best possible testimony to the excellence of the old organization, an excellence which can only be found in a system which is based solely upon the conclusions of common sense, and has grown up from the results of practical experience. The difficulties consequent upon the revolt still continue, but the war is now purely defensive on the part of the rebels, and their fate is certain unless they can find new allies among the native princes or feudal lords. The great heat of the present season, the small number of English troops, and the superiority of the natives in rapid marching, all tend to delay the restoration of order; though they do not seem to strengthen the rebellion, which appears to possess neither unity nor organic vitality enough to spread or become aggressive. Disturbances are now confined to a comparatively small extent of country, and do not affect the peace and security of the peninsula at large. It now only remains that I should acknowledge the very valuable assistance that I have derived: from many previous writers on this subject, especially Colonel Sleeman: and M. de Valbezen, whose very words I have, in several instances, followell. The facts and figures which I give I have endeavoured to make as accurate as possible by a careful collation of different authorities, and a reference to official documents, whenever practicable. NEW YORK, August 14, 1858. .... CONTENTS. Cause of visiting Rio-Entrance of the Harbour-Repairing Vessels at Rio-Porters -European Appearance of the City-Architecture-Priests and Religion- Slaves-Villas in the Country-Tejuca-Substantial Houses-Business-Polite- PAGE First View of Australia-Sydney Harbour-The Town and its Climate-Passage to Melbourne-Public Land System-The Road to Ballaarat-Colonial Milestones- CHAP. III.-AUSTRALIA, CONTINUED. First View of Ballaarat-Description of the Place-Gold Digging-A Colonial Theatre-Socialism at the Antipodes-Geelong-Melbourne-Paramatta-Re- publicanism in Australia-Government and Education-Emigration and probable The Passage from Australia-Making the Chinese Coast-The Yang-tze-kiang-The Foreign Settlement-Dress and Life of the Resident Europeans-Chinese Sol- diers-Natural Characteristics in Northern and Southern China-Native Town of Shanghae-Streets-Pawnbrokers-Public Buildings-Temples, and Worship -Phonographic Writing-State Visit of the Taootai-A Chinese Café-Romish Mission-Executions and Torture-Indifference to Pain shown by Orientals- Leave Shanghae for a Trip up the Canals-Our Boat-Swimming-Banks of the Canal-Military Stations-Temples-Graves-Villages-Dress of Chinese-Town of Kwunsan-Grain Junks-Comparison of Chinese and American Governments -This part of China once Submerged-Cormorants-Approach to Soo-Chow- The City-"Foreign Devils"-Grand Canal-Heat-Hills near Soo-Chow-View of Ty-hao-Mandarin's Tomb-Ty-hao-Chinese River Thieves-Their Honesty. 50 CHAP. VI.-A TRIP INLAND, CONTINUED. Ascend Toong-toong-ting-shan-The View-The Great Lake of China-A Beautiful Canal-Villages-Return to Soo-chow-Grand Canal-A Customs' Barrier-A Chinese Fort-Ping-bong-Chinzà-Nan-zing-Effect of Drought on Rice Fields -Our Examination by Mandarins-Preparations for the Rebels-Hoo-chow- Pretty Girls-Are compelled to return to Shanghae-Bridge at Yang-kow-shin -Kahing-Troops-Mandarin's House in Lake-Arrive again at Shanghae- Leave Shanghae-The Peninsular and Oriental Company-Hong Kong-Foreign Settlement of Canton-The Chinese Suburbs-Ceremonies at Ming-qua's House -Making Tea-Opium Smoking-The OpiumTrade-Temple of a Hundred Gods -Beggars Dying of Starvation-Interior of a House-A Chinese Restaurant- Chop-sticks-Rat Grills and Dog Stew-Public Opium Shops-The Boat Popu- lation of Canton-Indifference to Life-Lepers-How-qua's Garden-Unique Method of Hatching Eggs-Monasteries of Honan-Boodhist Services-Sacred Hogs-Gambling-Macao-A Protective Policy-The Portuguese-Effect of the The "Lancefield”-Entomology-Singapore-First View of Orientals-The Parsees -Malays-Gárrhees-Proas-Black Water-Torture-Crew of a Ship in the Indian Seas-Jolly Tars-An Indian Watering-place-The Hoogly-Bores-First View of Natives-Hubble-bubble-Fattening Shell-fish for Market... Palkees Buggies-The City of Calcutta-Government House-Tanks-Bazárs— The largest Mint in the World-Supreme Court-Conflict of Laws-Missions and Schools-Spence's Hotel-Servants-Expenses of Living in India-Civil Servants-Their Salaries-The Language of the Camp-A People without a CHAP. X.-CALCUTTA, CONTINUED. Roasting Human Bodies-Adjutants in Calcutta-Unpaid Scavengers-Early Rising -The Morning Drive-"The Strand"-Clothing-Country around Calcutta- "Stations"-Dum-Dum-Artillery Mess-An Ameer of Sind-Barrackpoor-The CHAP. XI.-CALCUTTA, CONCLUDED. Life in Calcutta-My Friends there-The India Trade-Skill of the Natives in Com- merce-Conduct of American Residents during the Revolt-Travelling in India- The Palanquin-"Marching"-Steamboats on the Ganges-Gárrhee-dâk—The Railway to Raneegunj-Indian Railways-Coal-A Dâk-Gárrhee-Dâk Companies- The Rights of Horses-Leopards and Jackals-Dâk-Bungalows-Scenery-Com- parison between Natives of India and China-Land-Tenure-Nullahs-People on the Road-Sahussuram-Two fine Tombs-A Dancing Cow-The Village Zěmindar-"Taking Leave"-Unsympathetic Character of the Natives-Country |