From New York to Delhi - Robert Bowne Minturn - Google Books

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CHAP. XIV.-Benares, conCLUDED.

Religious Ablutions-Aurungzeeb's Mosque-View from Minár-Burning Ghât-

Market Place-Hindoo College-"Native Gentlemen"-European Manners and

Morals in India-Ruins of a Boodhist Monastery-Gold Brocade-Opium....... 147

CHAP. XV.-ALLAHABAD-"THE CITY OF GOD."

Arrival at Allahabad-Zubburdustee-Seekhs-Hindoostanees-Fort at Allahabad-

An Invisible River-Sooltan Khooshroo's Surai-Hindoostanee Wells-Allahabad

to Cawnpoor-Bullock Trains-Elephantiasis....

CHAP. XVI.-CAWNPOOR TO LUCKNOW.

The Station of Cawnpoor-Disorder in Oude-Cawnpoor to Lucknow-Elephants-

Kaorees-Lucknow-Making Ice-The Weather-The Generosity of the Sove-

reign Company-My Man Brown-First View of Lucknow-A Moral-The Gate

of Rome-The Taza-The Imambara-A Fine Coup-d'œil-Situation of Oude-

Splendour of the Court-Indian Misgovernment-Indian Gentlemen-Extortion

and Tortures-Lord Canning's Confiscation-Brutal Degradation of the Court-

Relations of the East India Company to the King of Oude-Violated Faith..... 160

CHAP. XVII.-LUCKNOW, CONCLUDED.

A Morning Surprise-Salám-Native Polish-Hindoo Manners-Parade-Red Coat

-Character of Sepoys-An Army of Priests and Kings-Caste Misunderstood-

Pariahs-India Conquered for the English by Natives-Bullock Artillery-

"Hathee pur Howdah" or Elephant Riding-Rich Dresses-Chokeedárs-Fuk-

heers-A Coat of Paint-Royal Palace-Vanity--The Social Evil-A Modern

Sodom-Defence of the Lucknow Residency-The Massacre of Cawnpoor....... 178

CHAP. XVIII.-TO MEERUTH.

Appearance of Country-Bishop Heber-Christian Missions-Colonel Tucker-

Country between Futtehghur and Meeruth-Ganges Canal-An Indian "Sta-

tion"-Sirdhána-Dyce Sombre's Tomb-Free Lances of India-An Ingenious

Process for Collecting Money-A Female General-Success of the Bégoom-To

Moozuffurnuggur-Dhoolee Travelling-Persian Inscription-Natural History.. 192

CHAP. XIX. THE HIMALAYAS.

A Night in a Dhoolee-The Turai Forest-First View of the Snowy Range-Siwalik

Hills-Ram! Ram!-The Dhoon Valley-Rajpoor-Ascent of the Himalayas-

Puharrees-Munsooree― Indian Hospitality-Landoor-View of Snow-clad

Peaks Hill-stations-An Accident-The Descent-Agriculture in India-Tea

Plantation-Chinese Workmen-A Snake Fight....

CHAP. XX.-RETURN TO MEERUTH.

Rev. Mr. Woodside's-American Missionaries-Opening of the Ganges Canal-Ex-

citement of Natives-Moral Effect-Missionaries' Opinion of the Company's

Government-Its General Effects-Native States-A Seekh Temple-The Goo-

roo-Farewell to my Countrymen-Last View of Himalayas-Roorkhee-Work-

shops-Native Workmen-Repugnance between the English and Native Races

-The Ganges Canal-Other Buildings-Meeruth Again-Mutiny at Meeruth-

Conduct of Officers and their Feelings toward the Sepoys......

CHAP. XXI.-THE IMPERIAL CITY OF DELHI.

PAGE

First View of Delhi-Entrance to the City-The Palace-The Houses Low-The Ar-

senal-Col. Skinner's-The Church-The Square of Death-The Signal Tower-

Drive to Kootub-Ruins-Old Delhi-An Imperial Whim-Sufdur Jung's Tomb

-The Kootub-Indian Sam Patches-The Observatory-Chandee Chok, the

Broadway of Delhi-Dandy Moosulmans-The Mosque of Slaughter..

CHAP. XXII.-DELHI, CONTINUED.

A Juggler-Poses Plastiques-Entrance to Palace-Dewán Am-Emperor's Throne

-Mosaics-Drawing First Blood-A Paradise on Earth-Peacock Throne-A

Microcosmic View of the Mogul Empire-Shah Jehan in State-A Hundred

Years Later-Native Tact-The Glory has Departed-Maharattas in the Palace

-Gholam Kadur, the Rohilla, seated on the Royal Throne-Restoration of the

Empire by the British-Their Majesties, and their "Particular Slaves"-The

Last Emperor-The Last Tenants of the Dewán Khas-The Pearl Mosque-

Palace Gardens-The Jumma Musjeed-View from Minár-Moosulman Worship

-Feerooz's Walking Stick-Hoomaioon's Tomb-Chubootras-Peculiarities of

Mahommedan Architecture-Capture of the King of Delhi.......

CHAP. XXIII.-DELHI AND UMBALA.

The Saint's Tomb-A Royal Cemetery-A Victim of the English-The Old Fort--A

Nach at Mr. Skinner's-The Dinner-The Girls-Their Songs-Dancing Boys-

Native Gentlemen-Snakes-The Bazárs of Delhi-The Streets-A Native Wed-

ding-A "Public Night" at the Mess of the 54th-Dâk to Umbala-Sick-A

Dandy Servant-"Vengeance is Sweet"-Sepoy Dands-The Native Army-

Cashmeer Shawls..

CHAP. XXIV.-RETURN TO DELHI.

Desertion-Life of an Indian Officer-Christmas Evening at Mr. Beresford's-The

Mutiny at Delhi-Murder of my Friends-Fate of the Beresfords-The Revolted

Emperor's Government-The City while held by the Mutineers-Uniform De-

feats of the Mutineers-The Siege and Assault-Taking of the City and Flight of

the Mutineers-News of the Taking of Delhi-The City after its Occupation by

the English-Wholesale Punishment..

CHAP. XXV.—AGRA.

Arrival at Agra-The Taj-Its Proportions-Mosaics-The "Tribe of the Infidels"

-"The Ornament of the Palace"-Cost of the Taj-The Fort-The Pearl

Mosque-The Dewán Am-Dewán Khas-A Seat for a Sovereign-A Court of

the Zenana-The Palace of Mirrors-The Terrace-Sleeping Rooms-Town of

Alexander-The Printing Establishment-Akbur's Tomb-Akbur's Character

-His Legislative and Administrative Acts-His Religion-An Unexpected

Meeting-Dine with my American Friends-"Young Bengal"-Illumination

of the Taj-Revisit the Palace-An Indian Oubliette-The Old Hindoo Palace-

Hindoo Art-A Great Well-A Pleasant Summer Residence-Presentation of

Colours-Commander-in-Chief's Camp-Manly Sports-The Cathedral-Ram-

bagh-Tomb of Aktmud-ood-Dowlah-"The Light of the Harem"-Her Ambi-

tion and its Success..

CHAP. XXVI.-AGRA TO JAIPOOR.

PAGE

Chowdris-Combination versus Competition-Our Retinue-Price of Labour-Com-

mercial Integrity-Leaving Agra-The Departure of "A Warrior Lord"-A

Loan to the Sovereign Company-The Royal Pilgrimage—“Seekree, the City of

Victory-Tomb of a Wealthy Saint-Bishop Heber's Guide-Human Chessmen

-Blind-man's Buff-A Triumph for Religion-"Pointing a Moral" Four Rupees'

worth of Picturesque Piety-Bhurtpoor-English Protection and its Fruits-

An Indian Sebastopol-Rajah's Palace-Battle of Deeg-Quail Fighting-A

Boxing Match-Deer-Bosawur-Breakfast at 3 P. M.-Antelopes-Manpoor-

Walled Villages-Naked Sanctity-Buranah-Hills of Jaipoor-Palace of the

Rajah-Jaipoor....

CHAP. XXVII.-JAIPOOR.

Elephants-Beauty of the City-The Zenana and Palace-Novel Stairways-View

from Roof-A Court-Revenue Department-Dewán Khas-Sitringees-Native

Furniture-Curtain-ladies-A Lovely Character-Palace Gardens-His High-

ness' Toys-"Composite Architecture"-Native College-Marriage Nach-Ob-

servatory-Palace in Lake-Palaces of Ummeer-Tiffin in the Reception Court

-Bishop Heber's Praises of the Palace-Bazár of Jaipoor-History of Jaipoor... 320

CHAP. XXVIII.—RAJPOOTANA-"THE COUNTRY OF PRINCES."

Bugroo-Peacock Shooting-Thakoor's House-Dhoodoo-Superstition about Wells

Jain Temple-Kishinghur-Visit from Baboo-Rajah's Palace-Excitement of

the Public-A Dancing Elephant-Road to Ajmeer-Scenery-Dress and Man-

ners of Rajpoots-Fort of Ajmeer-Ruins of a Hindoo Palace-Nusseerabad-

Bombay Sepoys-The Shop of a Fire-worshipper-Bunai-Hindoo Cooking-A

Native Huntsman-Dáblah-Filial Grief-Bunaira--Remarkable Castle-Road

to Ummeerghur-Cheap Meat-The Day of Rest..

CHAP. XXIX.-COUNTRY OF THE MAHARATTAS.

Arrival at Chittôr-Seven Miles of Ruins-Tank-The Moon Lady-The Great Tem-

ple-Hindoo Religious Architecture-The Great Tower-Antiquity of Hindoo

Ruins-Religious Pic-nic-Enter the Maharatta Territories-" Zubburdustee❞—

"The Good Old Rule"-Poppy-fields-Neemuch-Noble Banyan Tree-Irriga-

tion-Mundissoor-A Pleasant Resting-place-Jowra-Nawáb's English Palace

-Khachród-New Style of Architecture-The Soobah's Politeness-Oojen-The

City-Temple of Kunaia-The God's Carriage-Indian "Punch"-The Maha-

rattas-A Native Government-Professional Robbing-Spread of the Maharatta

Power-Nature of their Government-Their Subjugation by the English-

Gwalior States-The Police-Indirect Utility of Native Misrule....

CHAP. XXX.-TO ELLORA.

March of Sir R. Hamilton-Indor-The Rajah's Palace-Strike into the Mail-road-

Revolt of Kuhárs-Origin of the Present Rajah-Mhow-Goojree-Kurrum-

poora-A Stray White Man-Manners of Natives-Sindwar-Fortress in Ruins-

Sirpoorah-Peculiar Police Regulation-Old Venetian Coins-Dhoolia-Native

Town-Evidences of having entered British Territory-Malligaum-Canton-

ments-Native Town-Nandgaon-Camp in a Grove-Sakigaon-Put up in

a Temple-Enter the Děkkun-Physical Geography-The Nizam-"Might

CHAP. XXXI.-THE CAVE TEMPLES OF ELLORA.

General Description of the Temples-Khailas-Fine Sculptures-"The Work of

Gods or Devils ?"-Other Caves-A Heavenly Carpenter-A Disorderly House-

hold-View from Hill-Saint's Tomb-Roza-Aurungzeeb's Tomb-His Charac-

ter-Splendour and Power-Decay of the Mogul Empire-A Night in Para-

dise-Indra Sabha-Sonorons Obelisks-The Doorma Lena - Architectural

Ornaments of the Caves-Hindoo Religious Mendicants-Peasantry-Their

CHAP. XXXII.-TO BOMBAY.

Road to Dowlutabad-"The City of Riches"-A Stronghold-The "Master of the

Plain"-Meet "the Moon-Lady" again-Aurungabad-A Magician-Tomb of

Aurungzeeb's Daughter-Another Revolt-Separation of our Forces-Toka-

The Godaveri-Brahmuns-A Hungry God-Rope-and-boat Bridge-Imampoor

-Ahmudnuggur-Meet our Friends-The Fort-The Kingdom of Ahmudnug-

gur-The Largest Brass Cannon in the World-Duelling among Natives of India

-Chand Beebee again-Death of Aurungzeeb-Bombay Kuhárs-Seroor-Kon-

dapoora-The River Kistna-Poonah-Dismiss our Kuhárs-Good-bye to Dhoo-

lee-travelling-Irregular Cavalry.............

CHAP. XXXIII.-BOMBAY.

Khandála-The Ghat Mountains-Cave Temples-The Railway-Obstacles to its

Construction-Situation of Bombay-The Fort-Native Town-Residences of

Europeans-Growth of Eastern Cities-Cominercial Ability of Natives-Com-

merce of Bombay and Calcutta-Variety of Nationalities represented in Bom-

bay-Parsees-Their Costume, Religion, and Customs-Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeeb-

hoy-Other Native Inhabitants-Hindooism in Bombay-Bóhoras and Portu-

guese-Peculiarities of English-Degeneracy of all other Nations in the East-

The Hoolee-Nach at the House of Juggurnathjee Sunkurset-Anglomania in

India-Old Hindoo Costume-Cave Temple of Elephanta
890

CHAP. XXXIV.-BOMBAY TO CAIRO.

The "Ganges"-Our Fellow-passengers-The Crew-Life on the Steamer-Aden—

Its Appearance-"Hell with the fires put out”—An Original Head-dress-Arabs

-The Cantonments-The Fortifications-Importance of the City-Free Trade-

A Foot-print of Civilization-The "Gate of Tears"-The Red Sea-Its Heat-

Suez-Transit Across the Desert-Its Appearance-The Road-The Pyramids-

The "City of Victory"-A Recommendation for Indian Travel...

CHAP. XXXV.-CLIMATE AND HISTORY OF INDIA.

Size of the Country-Not Thickly Settled-Rainy Season-Cold Season-Hot Season

-Unfit for a Residence of Europeans-Effect on their Health-Origin of the

Present Inhabitants of India-The Hindoo Conquest-Remnants of the Abo-

rigines-The Four Castes-Changes in Them-Arguments in Favour of this

Hypothesis-Mahommedan Invasions-Tamerlane-Foundation of Mogul Em-

pire by Babur-Akbur-Shah Jehan-Aurungzeeb-Decay of the Empire-

Revolts-Maharattas-Rajpoots-Death of Aurungzecb-The Seekhs-Utter

Disorganization-Nadur Shah's Invasion-Rise of the English-Conduct of the

Company toward Conquered Princes-Annexation contrary to the Company's

Policy-Character of Native Dynasties-Government of Dependent States.... 410

CHAP. XXXVI.-ENGLISH GOVERNMENT IN INDIA.

Abolition of Company's Trading Privileges-Board of Control-Government of India

Nominally in the Hands of the Directors, but really under the Control of the

Ministry-Civil Servants Appointed by Examination-Objections to this System

-Unfitness of Natives for Government Employ-Government in India-District

Magistrates-Salaries-Character of the Civil Service-Native Employees-Un-

covenanted Service-Universal Lying-Instances from Real Life-Rules of Tes-

timony-Civil Law of India-Mild Criminal Code-Thugs-Dukoitee-Religious

Murderers and Robbers-Infanticide and other Crimes-Suttee and Human

Sacrifices-Poisoners-Peculiarities of Crime in India-Thieves-Stealing a Sheet

from under a Man Sleeping-Precautions-Disregard of Capital Punishment-

Black Water-Blowing from Guns-Model Prisons-Caste in Jail-Smoking—

Licentiousness-Discourteous Manners of English to Native Gentlemen-What

is a Gentleman ?-Difficulties of Magistrates-Native Police-Their Corruption

and Tyranny-Torture in India-Bribery and Corruption-The Remedy-Causes

of the Moral Degradation of the Hindoos

CHAP. XXXVII.—THE ARMY OF INDIA.

Its Strength-Different Classes of Troops-English and Native Officers-Enlist-

ment purely Voluntary-Pay-Madras Army-Bombay Army-Low-Caste

Men-An Army of Gentlemen-Truckling to Caste--Tame Tigers-Salaries of

Officers-Staff-Service

CHAP. XXXVIII.-REVENUE AND WEALTH OF INDIA.

Undeveloped Condition of the Resources of India-Cotton-Obstacles to Develop-

ment-Small Agriculturalists — Caste-Want of Capital among Agricultural

Classes-Inferiority of Native Labour-Want of Roads-Railways-Ganges Canal

-Want of European Capital and Energy-Obstacles to the Supply of this-

Land-tax under Native Governments-Under the English-Lord Cornwallis's

"Settlement"-The Madras System-The "Village System"-Its Advantages-

To be made still more Liberal-Revenue and Expenses of the Indian Govern-

ment--Low Taxation-India a Poor Country-Misapprehensions that have

prevailed with regard to the Wealth of Oriental Nations...

CHAP. XXXIX. THE REVOLT.

Indian Rebellion not a Matter of Surprise-Revolutions and Rebellions common un-

der Native Governments-Rebellion did not originate among the People-Cha-

racter of the old Native Governments-Nature of the English Conquest, and

Character of their Rule-Evidence that the Rebellion was not a Movement of

the People-The Rebellion was not in its Origin a Military Mutiny-The real

Instigators were the Moosulman Princes-It was the dying Effort of Islamism—

Character of the Mahommedan Population of India-Favourable Circumstances

for the Rebel Leaders-Abortive Attempts of the Rebels to arouse the Mass

of the Population-The Moosulman Character of the Movement evident in its

Development-Atrocities-Noble Stand of the English-The Revolt in Oude-

Sympathies of the Population of India-The Disaffected Classes-The probable

Result of the Rebellion if it had not been restrained..

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