through the bazár and chôk. The streets were again crowded with people, and were so narrow that the foot passengers often found it difficult to get out of the elephant's way. As I sat in the howdah, I was on a level with the upper story of the houses, and could look in upon the apartments. In the principal bazár these were mostly tenanted by young girls, dressed in fine sarees of green or red muslins, decorated with gold nose-rings and jewellery, their eyes darkened with kohl (antimony), and their hands tinged red with heena. These ladies are called in Hindoostanee khusbees, or more politely, lallbeebees (red-ladies). Not to be less polite than the natives themselves to those who are in India, as they were in Greece, the only well-educated class of women, we will call them bayadères, though it is a word which I never heard in India. The bayadères then sat at the windows, smoking their naichas, displaying their finest clothes and jewellery, and sometimes making remarks to me in Hindoostanee or English.

"Ite quibus grata est picta lupa barbara mitra."

Sometimes might be seen beings still more repulsive-men with their pale faces, long, oily locks, decorated like their female correlatives, and gazing out of the windows with spiritless leering eyes:

"Hispo subit juvenes et morbo pallet utroque.
Talia secreta coluerunt orgia tæda

Cecropiam soliti Baptæ lassare Cotytto.
Ille supercilium madida fuligine tactum

Obliqua producit acu pingitque trementes
Attollens oculos; vitreo bibit ille Priapo

Reticulumque comis auratum ingentibus implet,
Cærulea indutus scutulata aut galbina rasa."

The city of Lucknow is spread over a large space of ground, but the best streets are all near the palace and Imambara, so that it did not take me long to see them all, particularly as 1 was on an elephant: in fact, there was such a crowd that, in any other conveyance, progress would have been almost im possible. Once or twice we met with other elephants, and

then as the streets were too narrow for the elephants to pass or turn round, the other always had to retreat backward before ours, till he came to a cross-street.

After taking another view of the Imambara and Room-eeDurwázu, we again passed the bridge to return to the bungalow. As we reached the opposite shore of the river, I turned round and took my last view of Lucknow. It seemed to me even more beautiful by the slanting rays of the evening sun than when I had seen it before, shining as if made of silver in the full blaze of an Indian noon. That evening I read Bayard Taylor's description of Lucknow, and the expressions of his feeling on seeing for the last time that magnificent home of vice and crime, represented my own feelings so well that I cannot forbear quoting the words: "The sun is setting, and the noises of the great city are subdued for a moment. The deep-green gardens lie in shadow, but all around us, far and near, the gilded domes are blazing in the yellow glow. The scene is lovely as the outer gate of Paradise, yet what deception, what crime, what unutterable moral degradation fester beneath its surface!"

In truth, every native capital in India is a nursery of the darkest crimes, a hot bed of the most disgusting forms of licentiousness ever invented by the depraved passions of man. Should the doom of Sodom descend upon these cities, no one who knows what they are would dispute the terrible justice of the punishment.

I again dined at Captain Hayes', who gave me much advice during the evening as to my further progress, and furnished me with letters to his friends in the stations whither I was going. Late in the evening I bade adieu, with regret, to my kind entertainer and his wife, for whom I had formed sentiments of sincere respect and esteem.

The subsequent fate of Captain Hayes was sad. He took command of a regiment of irregular cavalry, a service for which he was eminently adapted by his intimate acquaintance with the natives and their language; and fell, among the first victims of the mutiny, treacherously shot from behind, by one of his trusted followers.

The same evening I left the city of Lucknow, which was subsequently the scene of so much noble endurance, and such heroic gallantry. The siege of the Residency is, I believe, unparallelled in the world's history. The residency is a large, three storied house, of not more than average strength, and entirely unsuited for defence; and yet here a little band of noble hearts held out for month after month of sickening suspense, with unexampled courage, unflinching endurance of privation, and a never-failing trust in their countrymen, against countless hordes of well-armed, well-provisioned, and ferocious enemies. They were fighting to save their wives from barbarous indignities, worse than a thousand deaths; themselves and their children from the hellish tortures of the heathen, whose tender mercies are cruel; and the English name from disgrace and degradation. Their struggle was watched with breathless interest by the civilized world; their success and safety were hailed with universal applause-an applause shared by their heroic rescuers.

I arrived at Cawnpoor again on the morning of November 13, and, having breakfasted, left in gárrhee for Futtehghur. At breakfast I met some officers who offered to show me splendid sport if I could give a week to it. They were going with camels and tents to have some deer and antelope shooting; but I felt that I must push on as fast as was compatible with seeing the most remarkable objects, and was obliged to refuse myself the pleasure.

Six months after I left Cawnpoor, its troops revolted, and its European inhabitants fell a prey to the treachery and barbarous cruelty of Nana Sahib-a wretch, who, it is to be hoped, will soon meet with the just reward of his horrible crimes, and die amid the curses of the world; a monster whose name will always be mentioned with loathing, and heard with horror. To all his other vices he added cowardice. Miserably inefficient as were the hasty defences which the feeble band of Europeans had reared against the mutinous thousands, they were strong enough to hold those overpowering odds in check, and the leader of the rebels was obliged to resort to the basest perfidy, and perjure himself by

the most sacred oath of his religion, to obtain that surrender, which he and his followers dared not force. Black treachery was followed by pitiless slaughter, and the blood of the innocent called on Heaven for vengeance. Nor was Heaven indifferent to the cry. Though every circumstance seemed to promise the mutineers immunity for their crimes, a stern and speedy avenger was found in the "Puritan" soldier, Havelock, and his army of "Saints." "Though only a few thousand in number, far away from all succour, and in the ends of the earth, they marched unfalteringly amid millions of disaffected people, and armies of trained mutineers, over thousands of miles, in the worst season of the year, besieging and overthrowing great cities, meeting intrepidly all sorts of surprises, against incredible odds of numbers, and defeating day after day, vast hordes of well-armed and desperate men. They did this while the air sighed with the dying sobs of English women and children perishing under horrors which no pen has dared fully to tell. Wrung to the heart with these sorrows, but cool and determined, they marched to avenge themselves and the human race against the demonism which had broken out around them."* Honour, then, to the brave soldier, whose life-blood was shed in doing his duty; pity and tears for the fearful fate of the helpless women and innocent children; but indignation and contempt for those who wrought this shame; the gallows and the cannon are a fit punishment for the coward and the traitor.

*New York Christian Advocate and Journal.

CHAPTER XVIII.

TO MEERUTH.

Appearance of Country-Bishop Heber-Christian Missions-Colonel Tucker-Country between Futtehghur and Meeruth-Ganges Canal-An Indian "Station"-Sirdhána Dyce Sombre's Tomb-Free Lances of India-An Ingenious Process for Collecting Money-A Female General-Success of the Begoom-To Moozuffurnuggur-Dhoolee Travelling-Persian Inscription-Natural History.

AFTER leaving Cawnpoor, the appearance of the country. improved much. The population seemed thicker, the cultivation better, and the tôps more numerous. A tôp is a grove regularly planted, generally near a village, and used as a resting-place for caravans. The land on each side of the road was, in many places, overgrown with jungul-grass, a tall, thick sort of grass, which rises to the height of ten feet or more sometimes. Palm trees again became abundant, but I saw scarcely any banyan trees up-country.

I used to amuse myself in the gárrhee by studying Hindoostanee, and reading Bishop Heber's travels, which is the only guide-book for India, beside being extremely well written and interesting. His character must have been really lovely. He certainly made all with whom he was brought in contact, love him. It was related to me as a most remarkable proof of the great respect and affection entertained for him by all classes of both Europeans and natives, that at his death, commemorative religious services were held, not only in the churches of all the numerous Christian sects represented in Calcutta, but also in the mosques and temples of that city.

The Bishop's darling hope was the conversion of India, and he used to think that he saw hopeful signs. It would not appear, however, that the work is going on much more rapidly than in his time. The converts are few, and mostly of