girls, and opium, having in fact scarce any society but that of his inferiors, and being divested of any of the usual motives by which even Asiatic princes are occasionally roused to exertion. To such a man a strong religious feeling would (even as far as this world is concerned) be an inestimable treasure. But to inspire Shumsheddowlah with such a feeling, there are, alas! few if any facilities.

Government has seldom more than five companies of infantry at Dacca; but this number is now doubled, and they have also sent a small flotilla of gun-vessels, which are said to be on their way. Had the Burmese really possessed any considerable force of war-boats in the neighbourhood of Teak Naaf, Dacca might easily have fallen their prey; and the alarm excited lately was very great, and with some better reason than I had supposed. Among other objects of fear and suspicion was the poor old Nawâb, whom the English suspected of plotting against them, and sending information to the Burmese. That the Nawâb would not weep his eyes out for any reverses of the British army, is, indeed, probable. But as to intelligence, he had none to send which was worth the carriage, and was so far from contemplating the approach of the Burmese with indifference, that he had taken means for removing his family as soon as possible, in case of serious alarm, while he himself requested leave to attach himself to Mr. Master, to remain or go, whenever and wherever he might think proper.

Dacca, as Abdullah truly said, is "much place for elephant." The Company have a stud of from 2 to 300, numbers being caught annually in the neighbouring woods of Tiperah and Cachar, which are broken in for service here, as well as gradually inured to the habits which they must acquire in a state of captivity. Those which are intended for the Upper Provinces, remain here some time, and are by degrees removed to Moorshedabad, Bogwangolah, Dinapoor, &c. since the transition of climate from this place to Meerut, or even Cawnpoor, is too great, and when sudden, destroys numbers. I drove in the evening, with Mr. Master, through the city and part of the neighbourhood. The former is very like the worst part of Calcutta near Chitpoor, but has some really fine ruins intermingled with the mean huts which cover three-fourths of its space. The castle which I noticed, and which used to be the palace, is of brick, yet showing some traces of the plaster which has covered it. The architecture is precisely that of the Kremlin of Moscow, of which city, indeed, I was repeatedly reminded in my progress through the town. The Grecian houses, whose ruined condition I have noticed, were the more modern and favourite residence of the late Nawâb, and were ruined a few years since by the VOL. I.-19

encroachments of the river. The obelisk, or "Mut," which I saw, was erected as an act of piety very frequent in India, by a Hindoo, who about 25 years ago accumulated a large fortune in the service of the East India Company. Another mut of an almost similar form was pointed out to me a little way out of the town. The pagodas, however, of Dacca, are few and small, three-fourths of the population being Mussulmans, and almost every brick building in the place having its Persian or Arabic inscription. Most of these look very old, but none are of great antiquity. Even the old palace was built only about 200 years ago, and consequently is scarcely older than the banquetinghouse at Whitehall. The European houses are mostly small and poor, compared with those of Calcutta; and such as are out of the town, are so surrounded with jungle and ruins, as to give the idea of desolation and unhealthiness. No cultivation was visible so far as we went, nor any place cleared except an area of about twenty acres for the new military lines. The drive was picturesque, however, in no common degree; several of the ruins were fine, and there are some noble peepul trees. The Nawâb's carriage passed us, an old landau, drawn by four horses, with a coachman and postilion in red liveries, and some horseguards in red also, with high ugly caps, like those of the old grenadiers, with gilt plates in front, and very ill mounted. The great men of India evidently lose in point of effect, by an injudicious and imperfect adoption of European fashions. An eastern cavalier with his turban and flowing robes, is a striking object; and an eastern prince on horseback, and attended by his usual train of white-staved and high-capped janizaries, a still more noble one; but an eastern prince in a shabby carriage, guarded by men dressed like an equestrian troop at a fair, is nothing more than ridiculous and melancholy. It is, however, but natural, that these unfortunate sovereigns should imitate, as far as they can, those costumes which the example of their conquerors has associated with their most recent ideas of power and splendour. Stowe has been very ill ever since he arrived here; to-day he is better, but still so unwell as to make me give up all idea of leaving Dacca this week.

I met a lady to-day who had been several years at Nusseerabad in Rajpotana, and during seven years of her stay in India, had never seen a clergyman, or had an opportunity of going to church. This was, however, a less tedious excommunication than has been the lot of a very good and religious man, resident at Tiperah, or somewhere in that neighbourhood, who was for nineteen years together the only Christian within seventy miles, and at least 300 from any place of worship. Occasionally he has gone to receive the sacrament at Chittagong, about as far from his

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residence as York from London. These are sad stories, and in the case of Nusseerabad, I hope, not beyond the reach of a remedy.

July 6.-The Nawâb called this morning according to his promise, accompanied by his eldest son. He is a good looking elderly man, of so fair a complexion as to prove the care with which the descendants of the Mussulman conquerors have kept up their northern blood. His hands, more particularly, are nearly as white as those of an European. He sat for a good while smoking his hookah, and conversing fluently enough in English, quoting some English books of history, and showing himself very tolerably acquainted with the events of the Spanish war, and the part bore in it by Sir Edward Paget. His son is a man of about 30, of a darker complexion, and education more neglected, being unable to converse in English. The Nawâb told us of a fine wild elephant, which his people were then in pursuit of, within a few miles of Dacca. He said that they did not often come so near. He cautioned me against going amongst the ruins, except on an elephant, since tigers sometimes, and snakes always, abounded there. He asked me several pertinent questions as to the intended extent and object of my journey, and talked about the Greek priest, who, he said, wished to be introduced to me, and whom he praised as a very worthy, well-informed man. I asked him about the antiquities of Dacca, which he said were not very old, the city itself being a comparatively recent Mussulman foundation. He was dressed in plain white muslin, with a small gold tassel attached to his turban. His son had a turban of purple silk, ribbed with gold, with some jewels in it. Both had splendid diamond rings. I took good care to call the father "his highness,' a distinction of which Mr. Master had warned me that he was jealous, and which he himself, I observed, was very careful always to pay him. At length pawn and attar of roses were brought to me, and I rose to give them to the visiters. The Nawâb smiled, and said, "what, has your Lordship learned our customs?" Our guests then rose, and Mr. Master gave his arm to the Nawab to lead him down stairs. The staircase was lined with attendants with silver sticks, and the horse-guards, as before, were round the carriage; this was evidently second-hand, having the arms of its former proprietor still on the pannel, and the whole show was any thing but splendid. The Company's sepoys were turned out to present arms, and the Nawab's own followers raised a singular sort of acclamation as he got into his carriage, reckoning up the titles of his family, "Lion of War!" "Prudent in Counsel!" "High and Mighty Prince," &c. &c. But the thing was done with little spirit, and more like the proclamations of a crier in an English court of justice, than a ceremony in which

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any person took an interest. I was, however, gratified throughout the scene by seeing the humane (for it was even more than good natured) respect, deference, and kindness, which in every word and action Mr. Master showed to this poor humbled potentate. It could not have been greater, or in better taste, had its object been an English prince of the blood.

July 8.-Stowe, who has had a relapse, is rather better this morning, but his situation is very uncomfortable. There is no probability of his being able to go with me up the country, or to leave Dacca, perhaps for many weeks. This is very distressing. To delay my departure so long will be to endanger the whole prospect of effecting my arrival at Cawnpoor during the rains; or possibly of performing at all, during the present year, the visitation, on which, for so many reasons, I have set my heart, and for which I have already given up so much. The prospect of being so long burdensome to Mr. Master is not agreeable. Nor, though this is a minor consideration, can I look forwards without annoyance to so large a pecuniary sacrifice as is involved in abandoning a voyage which I have already paid for, and have by so doing largely anticipated the allowance made by Government, and which I can only expect to receive if I persevere in my journey. On the other hand, I will not leave my friend so long as he is in danger, or till I see him in a really convalescent state,

In the afternoon I accompanied Mr. Master to pay a visit to the Nawâb, according to appointment. We drove a considerable way through the city, then along a shabby avenue of trees intermingled with huts, then through an old brick gateway into a sort of wild looking close, with a large tree and some bushes in the centre, and ruinous buildings all round. Here was a company of sepoys, drawn up to receive us, very neatly dressed and drilled, being in fact a detachment of the Company's local regiment, and assigned to the Nawâb as a guard of honour. In front was another and really handsome gateway, with an open gallery, where the "Nobut," or evening martial music, is performed, a mark of sovereign dignity, to which the Nawâb never had a just claim, but in which Government continue to indulge him. Here were the Nawab's own guard, in their absurd coats and caps, and a crowd of folk with silver sticks, as well as two tonjons and chahtahs, to convey us across the inner court. This was a little larger than the small quadrangle at All Souls, surrounded with low and irregular, but not inelegant buildings, kept neatly, and all whitewashed. On the right hand was a flight of steps leading to a very handsome hall, an octagon, supported by gothic arches, with a verandah round it, and with high gothic windows well venitianed. The octagon was fitted up with a large round table covered with red cloth, mahogany drawing-room chairs, two large and hand

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some convex mirrors, which showed the room and furniture to considerable advantage, two common pier-glasses, some prints of the king, the emperor Alexander, lords Wellesley and Hastings, and the duke of Wellington, and two very good portraits, by Chinnery, of the Nawâb himself, and the late Nawâb his brother. Nothing was gaudy, but all extremely respectable and noblemanly. The Nawâb, his son, his English secretary, and the Greek priest whom he had mentioned to me, received us at the door, and he led me by the hand to the upper end of the table. We sate some time, during which the conversation was kept up better than I expected; and I left the palace a good deal impressed with the good sense, information, and pleasing manners of our host, whose residence considerably surpassed my expectations, and whose court had nothing paltry, except his horse-guards and carriage. The visit ended in an invitation to dinner, but without fixing a day. I said I should be happy, and hinted that an early day would suit me best. So that it does not delay my journey, I shall like it very well.

Dacca is sometimes visited by earthquakes, though not very severe ones. Mr. Master's house was much shaken last year. The general run of European houses here is about equal to the second or third rate of those in Calcutta: the rents seem nearly the same. Few are actually on the river, but those are the best, and bear the highest prices.

July 22.-A long interval has occurred, during which I have had neither time nor heart to continue my journal, having been closely occupied in attending the sick and dying bed of my excellent and amiable friend, Stowe, and in the subsequent necessary duties of taking care of his interment and property. She for whose eyes I write these pages, will gladly spare me a repetition of the sad story of his decline, death, and burial.

I this morning left Dacca, after a residence of eighteen days, marked by great, and, to me, most unusual anxiety and sorrow; but during which, I, as well as my poor friend, received in our affliction a degree of hospitality, attention, affectionate and delicate kindness from the civil and military officers attached to the station, and their families, and most of all from our excellent host, Mr. Master, which I shall never forget, and for which, I trust, I shall be always grateful.

I do not recollect any thing very material which I saw or heard during this period, having, indeed, been pretty closely confined to my friend's sick room. On Saturday, the 9th, 1 confirmed about twenty persons, all adults, and almost all of the higher ranks. On the following Sunday I consecrated the church. This perhaps ought, in strictness, to have preceded the Confirmation; but the inversion afforded the catechumens an immediate