Page images
PDF
EPUB

dare, and back to Dublin; and the Northern Toar, to Trim, Cavan, Enniskillen, Ballyshannon, Donegal, Coleraine, Giant's Causeway, Antrim, Belfast, Hillsborough, Newiy, Dundalk, Navan, and Dublin, about 1100 English miles, and his stay in Ireland was ten weeks.

In the Preface to this book the author says,

“The spirit and even the power of foreign travel is checked; we can no longer trace on the spot, those classical scenes described to us by the ancient poets and historians, and which in our younger days of study, we even read with enthusiasm; we can no longer in safety ascend the steps of the capitol, nor wander peacefully along the luxuriant shores of Baix or Misenum; even the frozen regions of Mont Blanc are interdicted to us by the ferocious decrees of a Corsican despot."

We shall conclude our account of this work with some extracts from the general remarks which are contained in the last sixty-two pages of the volume.

"Though the subterraneous temple cannot be said to be exclusively peculiar to this country, yet the sister kingdom cannot boast of any one either so large, or in such perfect preservation, as the one at New Grange, near Slane, which I have described in my journal, and which is one of the most curious monuments of antiquity remaining within the limits of the united kingdom."

Fifty-eight round towers are enumerated, from the best accounts which could be collected from the various authors who have recorded them.

"If Iam allowed to hazard a conjecture about these singular buildings, I should suppose

them to have been erected about the ninth
century. They seem, however, to have been
peculiar to Ireland, as there are none in Eng-
land or Wales, and ouly two in Scotland; these
are situated at Abernethy, in the county of
Murray; and at Brechin, in the county of
Angus;
each on the eastern coast of Scotland,

and far remote from Ireland."

The round towers in Scotland are on an average a hundred feet in height, sixteen in diameter, and the thickness of the walls is three feet and a half; thus the inside is only nine feet in diameter. Mr. Gordon in his "Stenerarium Septentrionalis" describes the towers in Scotland, and says, "At Abernethy I could discover nothing

except a stately hollow pillar, without a stair-case, so that when I entered within, and looked upward, I could scarce forbear imagining myself at the bottom of a deep draw-well."

The same author in describing the other. round tower at Brechin, says, “upon

it are evidences sufficient to demonstrate that it was a Christian work, for over the top of the door is the figure of our Saviour on the cross." This is no demonstration at all; any stone may be interpolated in a building, with inscriptions or basso-relievos at pleasure: on the Trajan column at Rome, a statue of St. Peter, and on the Antonine column, in the same city, another of St. Paul, were placed by Sixtus V. and these Saints have hitherto preserved their pedestals from mutilation, but nevertheless do not demonstrate that the columns are of Christian workmanship.

After having recapitulated the religious buildings, of which a minute detail had been given during the progress of the tour, Sir Richard says,

"But I should ill perform the duty I owe to my own feelings as a man of humanity, and as a citizen of that community which has so lately united each nation under the general appellation of Briton, were I to quit this subject without noticing more strongly than I have hitherto done during my journal, the disgraceful state in which several of the cemeteries are suffered to remain.

"From the earliest ages, and even by the most savage nations, the greatest respect has ever been paid to the bones and ashes of the deceased; but in Ireland, their sad relics, after a short abode in the clay-cold mansion, are again restored to light, and the floors of the once hallowed abbey become white with their thickly mouldering fragments. *

"The ruined abbies of Lislaghtin, Ardfert, Mucrus, and Buttevant, have come immediately under my own observation; and doubtless many others in Ireland present the same disgusting appearance.

"In a note on Mucrus (Journal), I presented to my readers Sir John Carr's warning to those strangers whose curiosity might lead them to examine the interior of this ruined abbey; and that I may endeavour to impress the reverend prelates to whom I have addressed myself with an idea of the disgraceful aud revolting state in which its cemetery is suffered to remain,

[ocr errors]

"I address myself to you, ye reverend guar- || simplicity, is seldom to be found in either dians of the church, and of the manes of your situation. fellow-citizens; to you it belongs to rescue "In travelling through Ireland, the attenthem from their present exposed and disgrace-tica is immediately and most forcibly arrested ful situation. Examine either personally, or by your rural deans (if such exist), the state of your churches and cemeteries. They are a disgrace to your country, a disgrace to huma- | nity; a field of battle only can equal the disgusting and desolated appearance which this Irish Golgotha presents to the astonished stranger: your task is easy and the burden will be light. A charnel-house of simple architecture, corresponding with that of the adjoining ruins, and placed under some aged yew-tree, with the plain and impressive motto of FUIMUS over its portal, would add both awe and interest to its hallowed scenery.

"Let us now turn our eyes towards the modern prospect which the capital and its provinces present to the Stranger in Ireland. A native writer has observed, that from the first view of Dublin, we must not judge of its provincial cities and villages; yet in some degree the comparison will hold good between the town and country. In the former, and particularly in the capital, we behold a city abounding with the most splendid works of architecture, extensive in their plans, and imposing in their effects; yet at every step, our feelings and senses are assailed by misery, filth, and beggary. *

"In the latter, the same magnificence of idca is extended to the nobleman and gentleman's demesne; we see splendid houses with inadequate establishments; extensive parks and pleasure-grounds, oftentimes neglected, and generally ill kept; in short, the plans both of the public and of the individual, seem in this country both to have been formed and executed on a scale beyond the powers of either; and the simplex munditiis, the neat and clean

I will add an extract from a still later publication, Illustrations of the Scenery of Killarney,' by Isaac Weld, Esq. In speaking of Mucrus abbey, the writer says: In a passage leading to the cloyster, I once found a head, with a considerable part of the flesh of the face, and nearly the entire hair upon it, literally rolling under my weet."

*"So badly regulated is the police of Dublin, that (as I was credibly informed) dead bodies are frequently exposed in the streets to procure, by charity, the means of burying them; and I was also told, that a mother had carried about the streets her infant who died of the small-pox, in order to excite the compassion of those she met."

by the situation of the labouring poor; and both the eye and the mind are in a certain degree compelled to dwell upon this distressing object, by the general want of interest which the country affords. They are seldom relieved by picturesque scenery, or by improved agriculture; but the poor man's hovel every where presents itself, and encourages a train of thought most galling to humanity. In describing the state of the poor throughout the different provinces, the authors of the statistical surveys, have performed both their duty to the public and to themselves, as men of feeling, in painting the miseries of the poor in the strongest colours. As their own words need no comment, and will speak more emphatically than from the mouth of a stranger, I shall make use of them on this occasion.

"Mr. Tighe, in his Survey of the County of Kilkenny,' says, 'The peasants are most miserably lodged; there are numbers who have not a bedstead, nor even what is called a truckle-bed frame; a pallet to sleep on is a comfort unknown to them; a wad of straw, or perhaps heath laid on a damp clay floor, forms their resting place; but very few of them have any thing like sheets; their blankets are wretchedly bad; in short, their bed-clothes are ragged and scanty; they put their coats and petticoats over them in aid of blankets in cold weather: too often these are stili damp, having been but imperfectly dried by a miserable fire, after they were worn at work in the rain. Even through the scanty thatch, the rain sometimes descends upon their beds, and bringing down the sooty substance lodged there by the smoke of the cabin, wets and stains the bed itself, and those who are stretched upon it.'

"Neither are the habitations of the poor, except in the immediate neighbourhood of some man of feeling, who has looked on them with an eye of pity (and few indeed are these examples), at all more comfortable in other provinces: in short, the above may serve as a general and just description of the poor man's hovel. I shall however subjoin a few more extracts from other county surveys."

"CAVAN.-In civilization they have made no proficiency, for the very wealthiest of these mountaineers have no better bed than straw, nor is a bedstead to be seen amongst them; but they indiscriminately herd together with the hogs, and all the domestic animals of their hovel. In more minutely examining the con

dition of this abandoned peasantry, we have an opportunity of seeing far into human nature, and behold the natives happy, and abundantly possessed of those qualifications which endear mankind to each other. In acts of friendship to their neighbours, they are rarely deficient. Their generous hospitality to strangers is proverbiai; and though their ideas may be strongly tinctured with superstition, it only argues that their minds have been totally neglected; and they show a great wish and anxiety for instruction even in religious concerns.

“QUEEN'S COUNTY.-Truly it may be said, that the hogs in England have more comfortable dwellings than the peasantry in Ireland. How can we expect propriety of conduct from our peasants, when we take so little pains to improve them? In how many places do we find the whole stock of domestic animals, and the peasant family, herd together under one miserable shed, with perhaps no better covering than sods or weeds; and from their extreme filth alone what ravages has sickness made through a whole district!

Should Sir Richard's Tour be re-printed, we beg leave to suggest that an Index and a Map, would be very acceptable additions, and that the new edition would appear less uncouth, if it were not larded with words in capitals, which disfigure the present edition.

To our review of Sir John Carr's "Tour in Holland," &c. may be added (what we unaccountably omitted), that the book is dedicated to the Duke of Bedford, by whom, when Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland, we believe the author was knighted.

Stranger

To our review of Sir John's " in Ireland," in the Supplement beforementioned, should have been added, that the ridiculous bombastic account of the Irish ladies' "Port if you please," is a fiction, and was probably copied from Mrs. Edgeworth's "Castle Rack-Rent."

Also, that the assertion that there are no monkies in Gibraltar is erroneous; many apes and monkies inhabit its caverns and precipices, and are frequently shot:it is thought that these animals are not pro

"MONAGHAN.-A bare recital of the state of this class of the community, has been considered as an unmerited satire on the country, and those who have endeavoured to call the attention of the public to the amelioration of their situation, have been stigmatized as in-duced in any other part of Europe. We

cendiaries."

For further particulars we refer to the book, which is written by a gentleman and a scholar, and on which the strictest reliance may be placed with regard to its veracity. It contains nothing extraneous to the subject, and will prove a very acceptable publication to antiquarians and historians.

The author did not visit any part of that quarter of Ireland called Connaught, of which we have no account from any modern traveller. Among the travellers in Ireland who are enumerated in the Preface, we find no mentich made of Mark Elstob, who published his Month's Tour in 1778, and of “Rambles through Ireland," by a French Emigrant, M. de la Tocnaye, in 1799.

refer the curious reader to the wonderful paragraphs and reflections p. 97 and 98 of that work, relative to petrified fish and plants, to the admirable remarks on the "Venus cockle" (Concha veneris), as specimens of the author's consummate knowledge of natural history, and to the mention of two famous trees, "of the class and order decandria monogynia," and "of the class polygamia and order trio-æcia," which is all that is said about them, of his proficiency in botany, Numberless pretty criticisms might be made on "St. Kevin, who lived 120 years before he died,” and on the author's "great uncle" who lived in For these biographical the same manner. notices we refer to the work.

TRAVELS THROUGH THE CANADAS..

ART. V.-Travels through the Canadas; containing a Description of the Picturesque Scenery on some of the Ricers and Lakes: with an Account of the Productions, Commerce, and Inhabitants of those Provinces; to which is subjoined a Comparative View of the Manners and Customs of several of the Indian Nations of North and South America. By George Heriot, Esq. Deputy Postmaster-General of British North America. Ilustrated with Maps and numerous Engravings, from Drawings made at the several places by the Author. Richard Phillips. 1807.

should gratify us with their reveries, or the memorandums in their pocket-books whilst journeying a few miles from their own homes. It is true that they are too fond of increasing the general stock of knowledge to confine their remarks to the spots they have visited, and the customs of their inhabitants, but kindiy impose upon themselves the arduous task of gathering from the works of others as much information as will enable them to extend their mental peregrinations farther, and produce a tour through countries, the soil of which they have never trodden. That this is the case with many of our modern writers, a reflecting mind will easily discover whilst perusing their performances, and comparing them with those of their predecessors. The more we are disposed to expose to deserved contempt such liter

THE spirit of science is now abroad; I it quickens the motions of every human soul, and awakens in every breast that sort of curiosity which is equally useful to society and honourable for those who feel its impulse. The most convincing proof of this general love for information, is the flourishing state of that part of literature which gives us an insight into the manners of other nations. This part is inexhaustibly fertile, the changes which years, a succession of rulers, and the vicissitudes of power and weakness produce in them, render the former descriptions that may have appeared, faithful pictures of the past, but bearing little resemblance to the present. The overflowing of a revolution, like that of the Nile, may, and generally does, after its tide has subsided, spread fertility over the most barren land. But in such a case the very face of nature wears a different ap-ary swindlers, the more do we feel inclined pearance, new descriptions therefore are required, a new field unfolds itself before the traveller, and his works, though giving an account of a country which has perhaps been twenty times described before, may still possess the charms and merits of novelty. If this part of literature be inexhaustibly teeming, it is not less varied and interesting; it supplies the legislator with intances of juridical wisdom in foreign lands, and offers a rich harvest to the moral and natural philosopher. It is not astonishing therefore that travels should crowd upon travels, to satisfy the thirst after information, and that mistaking their own talents, or blinded by the aviditywith which the public hails the appearance of such productions, many deep observers of men and manners

to praise those who lavish upon us the riches they have laboriously and honourably acquired; who do not clothe the ob servations of others in different language, but spread to our sight the fair fruits of experience, and display a degree of talent, . penetration, and accuracy equal to the importance of the subject of which they treat.

Imagination banished from the pages of history, where truth alone must dwell, finds a refuge in those of the traveller. Her ornaments, too splendid for the former, ought to be allowed to shed a softened lustre over the works of the latter : his style ought to vary with the object it describes, and ease and elegance to form its chief characteristics. The first requisites,

however, are a quick understanding capable of seizing at once the different relations of things, an active spirit, retentive memory, and a clear method.

After having perused this Tour through the Canadas, we feel happy in being able to range Mr. Heriot among those diligent travellers, whose accounts are authentic, whose style is pleasing, whose information is varied, and who know how to display the result of their observations to the greatest advantage. That our praise may not be deemed partial or unfounded, we will extract such passages from his work as will convey both interest and instruction.

He begins with a description of the Azores, and especially of St. Michael aud

odours, contribute to form a combination of objects highly pleasing and wildly picturesque.

"The valley, which is named Furno, contaius a number of boiling fountains; the most remarkable of these, the Cauldron, is situated upon a small eminence, being a circular basin

of thirty feet in diameter, whose water, boiling

with ceaseless agitation, emits a quantity of vapour. At a few paces distant from hence is the cavern Boca de Inferno, throwing out, for a considerable way from its mouth, quantities of water, mixed with mud, accompanied by a noise like thunder. Around this spot, and within the compass of an acre of land, there are upwards of a hundred fountains of the same kind; and even in the midst of a rivulet which runs by it, are several of these springs, so bot as to be unsupportable to the touch. In other

Pico, the first of which contains the follow-places the sulphureons vapours issue with

ing remarkable scenes:

"The hot baths are situated in the eastern part of the island, and the road leading from the capital thither, is by Villa Franca; from thence it rises by a gradual ascent for about twelve miles, until it attains the summit of the elevated lands by which these baths are environed. The descent into the valley is by a steep, narrow, and winding path. This extraordinary gulph is about twelve miles in circumference, surrounded by lofty and abrupt precipices, and accessible only by three ways, cut with labour out of the cliffs. The soil below is fertile and well cultivated, producing copious harvests of wheat and Indian

corn.

The inclosures are adorned with hedgerows of Lombardy poplars, which rise in pyramidal shapes, and exhibit a pleasing appearance. The gloomy faces of the surrounding rocks are shaded and varied by evergreeus, consisting of laurels, myrtles, fayas, paosanguintro, tamjuas, uvæ de serra, and a number of other shrubs and vines.

"Streams of chrystalline water, interrupted in their downward course, dash with impetuosity and foaming fury from rock to rock, and collecting in deep stony basins beneath, thence issue in serpentine rivulets, which intersect the valley in a variety of directions, in some situations rushing on with murmuring sound, in others creeping along with a smooth and silver surface. These, together with the appearance of the boiling fountains from whence clouds of steam are continually thrown up; a lake well stocked with water-fowl, blackbirds, and other feathered songsters of the groves enlivening by their melody; fruits and aromatic plants, yielding the most grateful

such force from a number of apertures in the overhanging cliffs, as to suggest to the fancy an idea of the place being inhabited by a thousand fabled Cyclops, occupied with their bellows and forges in fabricating thunder.

"The surface of the ground is covered in many places with pure sulphur, which has been condensed from the steam, and which, like hoar frost, is arranged in sharp-pointed, stellated figures.

"Not far distant from these hot springs there are others of a nature extremely cold, particularly two, whose waters possess a strong mineral quality, accompanied by a sharp acid taste. About half a mile to the westward of this place, and close by the side of a river, there are likewise several sulphureous fountains, whose waters have been used with eminent success, by persons afflicted with scrophulous disorders. Under the declivity of a hill, westward from St. Ann's church, are found springs of a similar kind, which are much used by the neighbouring inhabitants. These flow in currents from a precipice, and are some of a hot, others of a cold temperature,

although only a few fect asunder.

"To the westward of these is placed the lake, whose circumference is only three miles, and whose water is of a greenish colour, being powerfully impregnated with sulphur. On its north side there is a small plain perforated in a thousand places, incessantly emiting sulphureous exhalations. Thither, during the heat of the day, the cattle repair to avoid being tortured by flies."

The appearance of that island from the sea, and the description of the celebrated peak in that of Pico, are perhaps familiar

« PreviousContinue »