me, but with the exception of the soft-footed khansamer, or steward, who came in occasionally, I was entirely alone; and as the day was frightfully hot, I occupied myself in looking through the window slats at the elephants.

About sunset I walked down to explore the Agra "Fort," and here I obtained my first adequate conception of the marvellous magnificence of those princely palaces, mosques, and halls, which the Mogul conquerors were wont to raise for themselves. It was their policy to build their palaces and strongholds of defence within the same area, so that their kingly splendor might be supported, and protected if need be, by the strong arm of military power. When, therefore, I visited the Fort at Agra, I found it not merely a fortification, as the name might imply, but an enclosure of more than a square mile, containing buildings of various designs, which pertained mostly to the royal court, and gave evidence of oriental magnificence, both as to extent and lavish ornamentation. The grounds of the Forts are surrounded by a massive wall of red sandstone, seventy feet high, with a deep moat, drawbridges and battlements. Perforations are so arranged in the walls, as to serve for cannon, musketry, or the older weapons of warfare.

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The Fort is still a stronghold, however, and is at present occupied by a small British garrison of a hundred and fifty men; some of the large buildings of the interior serve the purpose of an arsenal. Within the enclosure is the large public audience hall, with King Akbar's judgment-seat; and behind this, facing the river, is a range of buildings with a square court and elevated terraces, which buildings were the palaces of the Mogul monarch.

As I wandered through the vast halls and deserted corridors of Akbar's palace, and met one surprise after another of architectural splendor, and paced the marble floors or climbed the lofty parapets of the Fort-without so much as meeting a single person—it seemed as though the wealth and magnificence of by-gone centuries were spread around me, and yet all was desolate and still. Imagination could easily restore the stately edifices, and people the deserted chambers and throne-room with the princes and ladies of Akbar's court. The garden, baths, zenanas, and reception-halls were once alive with music and merriment, and certainly fulfilled the highest ideals of oriental magnificence.

One court-yard is paved with squares of black and white marble, where Akbar and the ladies of his zenana were wont to play the eastern game of

puchisi, a sort of backgammon. The beautifullydressed ladies danced from square to square as the game proceeded, in the same way that the game of chess was once played in the French court, by substituting living knights for the pieces. There are underground passages in the Fort, where the ladies of the harem are said to have played hideand-seek, in innocent mirth.

During the late visit of the Prince of Wales in India, the palace became once more filled with life and courtly magnificence; for a state reception was here given to the Prince, in which the rajahs and native princes, and their richly-robed attendants took part. It would have made the great Mogul start to have seen his palace chambers changed to a banqueting hall, where British officers in bright uniforms feasted and made merry with the native princes, who held their titles but not their power, and were but subjects of a foreign crown.

In the centre of the Fort I observed long rows of unmounted cannon, and piles of black cannonballs; these grim looking implements of modern warfare appeared in strange contrast with the palatial surroundings and ancient oriental architecture.

"The glory of Agra dates from the reign of Akbar the Great, who made it the capital of the

Mogul Empire. He built the Fort, with its long line of castellated walls rising above the river, and commanding the country around. Within this enclosure were buildings like a city, and open spaces with canals, among which were laid out gardens blooming with flowers. On the river side of the Fort was a lofty terrace, on which stood the palace, built of the purest marble. It was divided into a number of pavilions whose white walls and gilded domes glittered in the sun. Passing from one pavilion to another over tassellated pavements, we enter apartments rich in mosaics and all manner of precious stones. Along the walls are little kiosks or balconies, the windows of which are half closed by screens of marble, which yet are so exquisitely carved and pierced as to seem like veils of lace, drawn before the flashing eyes that looked out from behind them."

Attracted by three gilded spires which shone above the other buildings, I climbed a flight of steps to the top of a lofty platform of red sandstone, upon which I found a beautiful structure of pure white marble. I had never beheld such a gem of architecture, and for the moment I stood motionless in the midst of the marble court gazing at the scene before me. The edifice proved to be the famous