visit the land where the missionary Judson labored. Beyond Burmah was Farther India, where British rule is already felt, and beyond that is the Kingdom of Siam, the land of the white elephant.

The Bay of Bengal treated us with moderate weather to the end; no cyclone engulfed us, and though a squall blew over at intervals, a little rolling is all we had to bear. We sighted the lightship, stationed one hundred and forty miles from Calcutta, about ten o'clock at night; but long before it was visible we were made aware of its proximity by a broad glare of light seen against the sky, occasioned by one of the "maroons," or firework illuminations, which are set off at every hour during the night, and may be seen across the sea at an immense distance.

Soon after, the steamer stopped and took two pilots on board from the pilot-brig which made towards us; a boat was lowered and sent for them, and as it pulled off, the phosphorescence which shone on the sea and gleamed from the oar-blades was beautiful. The water presented a livid appearance, like liquid fire. Lights were scattered about on the horizon, as many ships were anchored off the "sand-heads," as the shallow flats are called here, waiting for the day.

We steamed slowly up the river Hoogly, which is a branch of the Ganges. The river became narrower as we advanced inland, and the fields were covered with vegetation. No villages of note were passed, but natives were seen at intervals along the banks; they appeared for the most part lazy and listless.

The tide was high, and many steamers and ships passed us, going down over the "sand-heads ;" the ships were towed by strong, double-funnel tugboats. Navigation here is very difficult, and in bad weather dangerous. Our steamer pursued a zigzag course, first passing to one side of the river and then to the other, in order to avoid the numerous shallow flats and sand-bars. A rain-squall came on to cool things a little.

The whole region was exceedingly flat, the water being so close to the level of the fields that a small rise of tide would easily inundate them. In the terrible cyclone which occurred here some years ago, the river rose twenty-five feet; fifteen thousand natives were swept from their homes and drowned, the whole country was devastated, and nearly all the ships in the neighborhood were either wrecked or carried for miles into the interior, where they were left high and dry by the receding tide.

CHAPTER V.

CALCUTTA AND ITS INSTITUTIONS.

CALCUTTA is called the "City of Palaces," and certainly its broad streets and elegant buildings are a pleasant surprise to the traveller who approaches it from the east, and has seen no place so European-like among the other cities of Asia. Nevertheless, it is scarcely more palatial than some other cities of India, and in public buildings and imposing effect Bombay may fairly be said to rival it. Many private residences combine the substantial characteristics of European architecture with the graceful verandas and columns of the Orient. The city is spread over a large area, and the streets are wide and well sprinkled with water, gardens surround the houses of the wealthy, and broad balconies, shaded by Venetian blinds, look out upon green lawns and pleasant walks.

On the banks of the river Hoogly, approaching Calcutta, are a succession of castles and splendid estates, owned and occupied by some of the native princes who formerly ruled the provinces of Hindostan. Deprived of their princely possessions by

the British government, they still keep up the same pretentious display as that in which they formerly indulged; for their incomes are still large, though they have none of the expense and responsibility of state affairs. The most magnificent estate in this neighborhood is that of the king of Oude, who once ruled the great province of the same name, which has Lucknow as its capital. He joined the mutiny against the British in 1857, and was subsequently deprived of his possessions; he was allowed to retain his rank and a munificent pension, but was obliged to reside near Calcutta, under the surveillance of the government. His palace, seen on coming up the Hoogly, is the most beautiful of all the stately residences passed. Within the grounds are large aquariums, flower-gardens, and one of the finest menageries in the world.

Menageries are old established institutions among the estates of Oriental princes, and much pride is taken in making them as complete and extensive as possible. The Bengal tiger is of course seen here in full glory, stalking up and down his capacious cage, with easy, cat-like tread, and glaring at the stranger with his great eyes, as though the strong bars alone prevented his seeking a closer interview. The serpent-charmer exhibits

his wriggling pets of live snakes, handling them regardless of the venomous fangs with which they are armed. Birds of paradise are kept here, and also the ostrich, pelican, eagle, flamingo, swan, and many species of pigeons. Great green tortoises sun themselves on the margin of the artificial lakes, and goldfish, and other members of the finny tribe, shoot to and fro beneath the water.

The royal residences of the king of Oude consist of nearly a dozen edifices, with colonnades and open porches. In these buildings a small army of servants, retainers, and native soldiery are quartered. All the elegance and affluence of a court are kept up, even though it is all an empty show of sovereignty; for the "king" has seen his kingdom wrested from his hands, and he is little more than a magnificent prisoner and pensioner, under the eye and power of the government.

The other princely residences and villas along the river bank are exceedingly beautiful, and in sailing slowly up the Hoogly they lend a picturesque effect to the landscape not unlike the feudal castles on the Rhine. But the tropical foliage and gorgeous colorings of light and shade are more striking than the scenery of Europe. The river channel is difficult of navigation, owing to the swift