Such was their idea of a Bishop. The coolies elsewhere claimed that I was equal to a general, and must give as much as he. But now we are on our way to Allahabad, the capital of the North-West; we go by railway to the Jumna. Here we find the bridge incomplete by reason of the difficulty of building one of the abutments. We are conveyed over the stream in a steamer, which takes soundings every few minutes, because of the perpetual shifting of the sands. Here we see multitudes of persons— men, women, and children-carrying sand and mud upon their heads, in little baskets, to lay a new foundation for the last abutment of the bridge. On our passage we were introduced to a celebrated Mohammedan, Syud Ahmud, Principal Sudder Ahmeen, or native judge of Allyghur, who, in the last rebellion, held the district of Bijnour against the Nawab of Nujubabad until obliged to take refuge in the cantonments of Meerut. In consideration of his services he receives a pension that descends to his eldest son. He is writing an elaborate commentary on the Old Testament Scriptures, which he holds to be inspired and binding on all Mohammedans. He combats the arguments of Colenso with great ability. He differs from Christians only in this, that he does not believe Christ,

though a prophet, to be divine, and does believe Mohammed to be a prophet. We were met at the Ghat by the Chuprassee of Hon. Mr. Muir, one of the Governor-General's council, who placed us in a carriage and drove us to his master's, where we were entertained with princely hospitality, and met with many friends, among them Mr. Owen, of the American Board. On the next day we attended a meeting of the Directors of the Bible Society, the Tract Society, and the Anglo-Vernacular Education Society. Mr. Mohun, a native preacher, insisting on the Hindee language instead of the Ordu, which the British are trying to make the common medium, said: "You have taken away our country; will you take away our language also?”

We visited the Christian native school and village, and the printing-office of the American Mission, where we found native printers publishing, on their own account, "Bunyan's Pilgrim's Progress" and "Holy War."

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FROM ALLAHABAD TO AGRA.

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EAVING Allahabad we started for Cawn

pore, 120 miles higher up on the railway. On arriving at the latter city we hired a carriage, and took a look at it. It contains over 100,000

people, is the seat of a large trade and extensive manufactures, and the terminus of the Ganges Canal. It is noted for an outrage committed in the rebellion of 1857. Gen. Wheeler took refuge in an intrenchment with 900 Europeans, most of whom were women and children. He was besieged by the Rajah of Bithoor, the Nana Sahib. When the Europeans were reduced to one-half their original number, and out of ammunition, they surrendered, under a promise of safe conduct to Allahabad, but the men were treacherously murdered, and the women and children. confined. When the Nana heard of the approach of Havelock, he caused his prisoners to be massacred and thrown into a well. The Sepoys

refused to do the savage work, and the Nana sent for the butchers of the city to execute his command. Over the well a massive and beautiful monument, with a richly carved screen of stone, has been erected, and around this a park has been laid out, with gravel walks, flower beds, and running waters.

I had the pleasure of traveling in company with Major Thompson, the only survivor of the Cawnpore massacre. He escaped by swimming for miles down the Ganges, fired upon from the shore.

From Cawnpore we proceed to Agra. This is a city of 100,000 inhabitants, and, until lately, the capital of the North-West Provinces. It was the seat of Mohammedan power in India in the days of the great Akbar. It is one of the keys of Northern Hindostan, and was a central position in the rebellion of 1857. It contains a fort a mile and a half in circuit, with battlements 70 feet high, within which is the palace of Akbar, and the Pearl Mosque. Two centuries ago this city was probably ten times the size that it is at present. Cultivated fields now occupy what once was covered with palaces, and the plowshare. runs over the remains of baths, subterranean rooms, and other ruins of former palaces. We were received very kindly by Major Ward, Cantonment magistrate, who, with his family, had

just returned from the hills, whither they had found it necessary to resort in order to recuperate.

The most remarkable object at Agra is the Taj Mahal. It is perhaps the most beautiful building on the earth. It stands on the left bank of the Jumna, two miles from the city It rises 296 feet from the platform to the crescent, and is visible a distance of twenty miles. Viewing it from the lofty tomb of Akbar, five miles distant, it looks like a tent of snowy whiteness and rich embroidery let down from heaven into a paradise of earth to be the audience-chamber of an angel on an errand of mercy to men. As you approach it you catch different views of it, but all charming. And now you are at the gate, which arrests your attention at once by the magnitude of its walls, the harmony of its proportions, and the chasteness and appropriateness of its ornaments. Around the lofty archway are Arabic letters in black marble, let into the red granite, constituting chosen texts of the Koran. Passing through the arch you find yourself in the hall, which reminds you of many passages of Oriental writings; such as, "The gates of hell shall not prevail against it;" for, within this gate, if angels were sent to recover Eden, Michael might hold a council of war, and