are to be taught certain ideas which are revolting to us. It is a long-continued misery which has been entailed on our sires. and grandsires, and which must press forever on our grandchildren. In our religion we are Catholic (for all the old Poles derive their religious belief from the French, in opposition to the Greek Church). We neither have peace at home nor in our churches."

men.

It was the 18th of August when we reached Vienna, late in the evening. At the station we were met by the United States Minister, Mr. Kasson, and by all the secretaries and attachés of the American Legation. A large number of our fellow citizens were there also, and as the General left the cars, he was loudly cheered. On the 19th, General Grant went to the American Legation, as it was there Count Andrassy, the First Minister of the Council, was to receive him. It is quite well understood that, by diplomatic license, the legation of any Government is supposed to represent the soil of that country. Count Andrassy was attended by many of the leading statesAn acquaintance with the Count was soon made, and an hour or more passed in agreeable conversation. In the evening General Grant dined at the Countess Andrassy's, and Mrs. Grant was the guest of Mrs. Post. On the 20th there was an audience with his Imperial Highness Francis Joseph. This reception took place at the Palace of Schoenbrunn. On the 21st the General and Mrs. Grant were guests of the imperial family, and dined with them in the evening. Prior to the dinner Baron Steinburg accompanied the General to the Arsenal, where the fullest explanations were made of all the new Austrian improvements in artillery. A grand diplomatic dinner was given on the 22d, by the American Minister. At this banquet the guests included all the ambassadors of the foreign powers. In the evening a reception and ball took place, when the representatives of the Austro-Hungarian Cabinet were present, and the rooms were thronged by the most distinguished people in Vienna.

When we were journeying north, we were told that Hamburg was the most pleasant of cities, but as we were tending south

VIENNA.

497 erly, we heard on all sides "that. Vienna was, indeed, the true Paris of Southern Europe." Certainly no place has the same traits as Paris, but in that open-air life, which does not exist save in the country, it quite surpasses the French capital. It is a most aristocratic city. You may, if you will, by working hard enough and having plenty of money at your disposal, get into the best society in Paris, the Faubourg St. Germain if you please; but it is quite a different thing in Vienna. The higher circles of the nobility are unapproachable. The old prestige of the Austrian noble still exercises its peculiar privileges, and recalls the exclusive times of Maria Louisa, and of

Kaunitz. There are habits and customs which hedge around the Austrian higher classes, whose boast is to have genealogies dating from antediluvian times. Commercial aristocracy of course is to be found in Vienna, men of the present day, who have brought their brains to their aid; but still, as you will very soon discover, between such men enriched by trade, and the old régime, there is hardly any intercourse. Vienna is undergoing changes which have been very rapid, and which are partly due to the late International Exhibition. Forty years ago, when Austria had Metternich for its guiding spirit, to have made Vienna the center of an exhibition would have been, in that antiquated statesman's eyes, the same thing as if some one had offered to

introduce the plague, or invite a club of republicans to hold their sittings in the city.

As you enter Vienna from the station and cross the RingStrasse, or circular boulevard, you find a new city as fresh as an American town. Here are magnificent streets, crowded with superb shops, finer, indeed, than we have seen anywhere, Paris not excepted. Some controlling thought has apparently guided the architects, for the appearance of these new quarters is both harmonious and pleasing. All these immense ranges of buildings are due to joint-stock associations, who went mad just before the Exhibition, and the collapse of these enterprises brought ruin on many. Still, as we do not see the trouble which has ensued from these speculations, we only look at and admire the results. We are comfortably ensconced in a hotel which is quite sumptuous, and we regale ourselves with the delights of the Austrian cuisine. We are even inclined to think that there are no better cooks than those found in Vienna.

Our first visit was to the imperial summer residence, the Schönbrunn Palace, which is situated on the outskirts of the city, surrounded by elegant gardens and green woods. We wandered through the many handsome apartments of this "Palace of the Beautiful Fountain," recalling the remembrance of the Duc de Reichstadt, who, as a child, may have lived in some of these great rooms, and pondered there over the fall of his father. As we leave the palace we stroll through the gardens, and can only compare them with those of Versailles.

This morning we visited the Stephanplatz, where stands the famous Church of St. Stephans, and the Archbishop's Palace, and strolled across the Danube and into the Prater, the grand park of Vienna. This beautiful park has a superb avenue lined with trees, called the Prater Allee. It is about two and a half miles long, and is the great drive for the upper classes. At one side of this carriage-road are the coffee houses, restaurants, music halls, etc. This part of the Prater is chiefly frequented by the poorer people.

The military element is visible everywhere, and soldiers dressed in light-colored uniforms may be seen in every neigh

borhood. Nothing can be more jaunty than an Austrian lieutenant or captain. Possibly, not excluding your swell English guardsman, the Austrian officer is the greatest military dandy in the world. Notwithstanding their rather exquisite appearance, we found them to be most courteous and obliging, and very thoroughly informed. Unfortunately for Austria she has had full need of her soldiers for the last thirty years. As far as the inventive military art goes the Austrian officer holds

a distinguished place, and the discoveries of General Uchatius, especially in artillery, are of the most remarkable kind. It is certainly within the memory of many when Austrian and Hungarian were at daggers drawn. Thanks to a wise and generous policy, one of forgiveness and forgetfulness, Austria is stronger by the love of her Hungarian population than she ever has been before. The early misfortunes which met the present emperor were not lessons lost on him. With her Italian provinces gone, Austria has gained new life, and she has to-day the respect and sympathy of all Europe. It

was pleasant to hear on all sides the love expressed for the Emperor, and to listen to the many stories told of his kindnesses. The Viennese have an intense love for music. Is not Vienna the city sacred to the waltz and to Strauss? You hear music on every side. In the streets, in the public places, military bands are performing in the most delightful manner. In fact, we float along on music. The Opera House is second to none, and from Vienna, as a hot-bed, spring forth all the year round crops of sopranos, contraltos, tenors, and bassos, who go hence for their tour around the musical world. Vienna was the home of the great Mozart. Beethoven, too, did the most of his work here.

In the Viennese population, the Jew forms a large proportion. The Israelite may be seen occupying very extensively the profession of street peddler. In Germany, generally, the social condition of the Jew, his place among his fellows, is not a flattering one. When he arrives at great wealth, the power which money brings is even then grudgingly accorded to him. There is a feeling of religious prejudice existing in the German mind which seems difficult to eradicate. Austria is devoutly Catholic, though of late years Unitarianism has made great progress. Education is making rapid strides, and to know how to read and write becomes a necessity, for there is a rather arbitrary law which prohibits any one from marrying who cannot read and write. Fancy how oppressive must be a dictum of this kind. Still it may have its touching side, for we can imagine some pretty Austrian peasant girl, well versed in her A, B, C's, teaching her swain all the mysteries of the spelling book so that he may gain her hand in wedlock.

Among the most delightful of our visits was one to Baden, fourteen miles from the city and about half way to Voslau. Baden, as its name designates, is a place for bathing. Springs abound, and the water is at a very high temperature.

For once the General was forced by many courtesies to extend his stay some days over the date fixed for our departure. None of us regretted this delay, for Vienna is a city fitted for those who feel like indulging in a little rest.

But our time has come, and we hear imperative commands