CROSS the Baltic, from Stockholm to St. Petersburg, is quite a voyage, some four hundred miles or more by sea. Just now, at the close of July, the trip has proved a moderately pleasant one, but in the spring and fall there are no heavier gales than those

which blow through these inland seas. Away up in the frozen north, in the Gulf of Bothnia, old Boreas holds his wind bags, and launches the cold gusts down to the Baltic Sea.

It is, indeed, an inland sea, and a vast one. Though it is midsummer, and the sun has driven away the clouds, the sea is not very cheerful, for it has no grand ocean swell, and is quite turbid. The wind is brisk, not exactly a gale, but one feels the motion very distinctly. The party has got its sea legs on again, and no one is seriously disturbed. We cannot say the same of 465

30

a number of German tourists, who are evidently very much distressed. Our fellow passengers are of a very heterogeneous kind. We do not notice that peculiar middle class, however, which one finds in Southern Europe. Take an American or an English steamer, going almost anywhere, and you will be very certain to find that a large proportion of the passengers are of that honest class who are seeking their fortunes, and who bring with them, as capital, nothing more than their good thews and muscles. There are scarcely any who seem to be looking for what in America is called a job.

Take that fine-looking Italian with the oval face and olive complexion, for instance. His mission is undoubtedly to present his new opera before a St. Petersburg audience, if possible, and so bring the Russians out of what he considers barbarism into culture. Or the inventive American, who is visiting Russia for the purpose of introducing his patent rifle, which can be loaded and fired fifty times a minute. His idea is that with this invaluable arm Russia could march straight to the Dardanelles, and he considers it very unfortunate the war has not lasted six months longer. The short man leaning over the rail is the representative of the greatest banking house in the world; he makes the trip either to negotiate a loan or to see about the payment of the last one. Russia draws to herself not exactly those classed as adventurers, but she is considered a place where a fortune can be made. To the rest of Europe she is still a kind of terra incognita.

As we were skirting Finland, not quite halfway on our journey, the wind increased to a gale, blowing right in our teeth. But our vessel was an excellent one, the engines powerful, and in four hours we outsailed the squall. Occasionally, as the weather cleared, we could see the coast line, which was low and dreary. In time the broad expanse of the Gulf of Finland, some hundred miles in width, narrowed, and smoother water was reached. Imperceptibly the shores approached us, and as we neared Cronstadt, the weather made a final and positive clear-up. We knew we were near some great haven, for there were many ships coming and going. Now and

CRONSTADT.

then a steamer passed bound to the westward.

467

We make out

a bright speck in the far distance, which shines in the sunlight, and are told that that is Cronstadt, the seaport of the new Russian capital. We fly our colors, and out of respect to our chief, the stars and stripes float from the foremast. As we near the outlying batteries which bristle around Cronstadt a salute is fired. We steam rapidly into the harbor, past many vessels of war, which are all gay with flags. Though there must have

been much consumption of powder in Turkey, there is still some of it left in Northeastern Russia, for in the General's honor powder is burnt without stint. We have no difficulties, of course, as to passports, as all disagreeable routine is abolished out of consideration to the General. It is the 30th of July, and as time is passing, we are anxious to reach St. Petersburg before night. Fortunately the reception at Cronstadt was not prolonged. After a brief address of welcome we embarked on a steamboat and entered an arm of the sea, into which the Neva pours her rapid stream. The trip is not a long one.

Soon the great city of Russia, with its many lofty spires, stands out against the blue sky.

Immediately on arrival we were met by the Hon. E. M. Stoughton, our Minister at St. Petersburg, who warmly welcomed the distinguished traveler. Scarcely had the General received Mr. Stoughton, when the Emperor's aide-de-camp, Prince Gortschakoff, and other high officers of the Imperial Court, called on him with kind messages from the Emperor. A grand audience was arranged to take place next day, July 31st, when his Imperial Highness Alexander and General Grant met.

Nothing could exceed the cordiality of the reception. Prince Gortschakoff, one of the great figures which rule the destinies of men (the friend of Bismarck or his rival; which, no man can say), was also introduced by the Emperor. The Emperor seemed amazed at the long tour the General intended making. A portion of the conversation was occupied by the Emperor in gaining information regarding our Indians. The subject seemed to interest him greatly, and questions were asked, not only in regard to their treatment in the past, but as to their future. Our recent wars with them seemed to be well known by the Emperor, and the General had to go into very particular details as to the plans of campaigns, and the peculiar methods of Indian warfare. As the Russian Empire is such a vast and extensive country, in which innumerable races and religions are represented, these questions and answers were doubtless of great interest to the Emperor and the Russian chancellor.

At the close of the interview, the Emperor accompanied the General to the door, saying, "Since the foundation of your Government, relations between Russia and America have been of the friendliest character, and as long as I live nothing shall be spared to continue this friendship." The General's reply was, That although the two Governments were very opposite in their character, the great majority of the American people were in sympathy with Russia, which good feeling he hoped would long continue." The Grand Duke Alexis made it a

point to meet the Ex-President while in St. Petersburg, and recalled with much pleasure his visit to America. The Grand Duke made very many inquiries in regard to General Custer, and told of the deep solicitude he had felt on hearing of his death.

The General's call on Prince Gortschakoff was an exceed

ingly pleasant and social one. Several hours were spent in chatting and smoking. European matters were discussed, and

the General gave the chancellor some insight into American politics. Nothing strikes the American more forcibly than the mature age of European statesmen. It is too often the case in the United States that when a man has passed his fiftieth or sixtieth year he becomes worn out. Here is Prince Gortschakoff, born in 1798, now more than eighty years old, who, though he is physically frail, has still as strong a brain as he possessed in his younger days. No amount of mental work. seems to distress him. Like Thiers and Guizot, who, when still old men, were possessed with unfailing powers, the successor of