CHURCHES AND GRAVES. 453 in one piece. Red caps seemed to be the ordinary head gear. Short breeches and stockings were universal. I never saw more honest, sturdy faces. Our road led by a village church. It was of fair size with nave and chancel. It was built of wood, not thin planks and scantlings as with us in America, but constructed of good, solid, massive beams. How long it had been built we could not find out. It was weather-stained with time. The roof was high-pointed and covered with shingles. in Norway have to be high and of a sharp angle, otherwise they could not withstand the heavy weight of snow which falls through the long winter. On top of the church swung the typical cock which had veered in the gale for many a hunSome of us dred years. years. halted for a little while PEASANT GIRL. Roofs sweet touch of summer around these silent graves, for blue gentianellas and lilies of the valley were growing in all luxuriance; even a rose gave out its pleasant perfume. There seems to be great respect paid by the Norseman to the last resting place of his race. The memory of the dead is sincerely cherished. Our informant tells us that reunions are sometimes held by members of a family in the grave-yards long after the decease of a relative. It is said that much of that family affection, that patriotism, that attachment the Norwegian peasant has for his country throughout all his wanderings, may be traced to this respect they pay to their graves. Just as we were remounting our vehicles, our skyds gut, or postboy, urging departure, the pleasant chimes of the bells in the church steeple were heard. It might have been only the hour that was told, or some church service that was indicated, but instantly the whole group of peasants removed their hats and caps and bowed. It was a kind of reverential act, a return of salutation to the old church. We are interested in the history of these peasants, and find that they have certain peculiarities which are not to be found elsewhere. There never has been anything approaching to feudalism in this Scandinavian country. A man has always asserted his rights, and fought for them. He never owed allegiance to a petty chief. A Norwegian gentleman, who has acted as our guide, explains what is meant by a bonder: "You might go," he tells us, "into that rather modest-looking house yonder on the hill-I have been there before—and if you asked the owner who he was or what was his origin, he would tell you that some old king of Norway was his ancestor. The man is perfectly truthful. He can trace his lineage back maybe a thousand or twelve hundred years. The English pride themselves on their names, and date the birth of their noble families to the Norman Conquest. He can date his to the time of Alfred. We could show you bonders, peasants, who have an absolute descent much farther back than the tenth century. These bonders form a distinctive class. They have an intense love for country, and are mostly comfortably off. They despise all show and parade, and live simply and unostentatiously. They are always fairly educated, and are representative men. They occupy a special position, which is difficult to explain. In your English sense they belong to the yeoman class rather than to the gentry. They are exceedingly courteous, and will give you their hospitality without stint. If they have any pride of race, they never show it, but still they must remember the grand old stock from which they sprang. I think," concluded our informant, "that they are quite distinguishable, as a class, THE LAPPS. 455 by their fine manly appearance, for they always hold their heads high, and stoop to no man." Our journey into the interior is necessarily restricted as to time. It would have delighted the General if we could have pushed still farther north. Trondjhem and Christiansund were even mentioned, but time is fleeting, and our aspiration to pay a visit to the town nearest to the pole is frustrated. The fact is we are all more or less possessed with an intense desire of seeing a Lapp, or riding behind a reindeer. As to the first, we get a sight of these strange men of the North, and as to the reindeer, our curiosity is readily satisfied, for we find he resembles very much our caribou. In response to our inquiries. in regard to the reindeer, we find that he is difficult to keep, even as far south or north (whichever you please) as Christiania. We are shown some of the deer, who are apparently gentle to those who care for them, but who resent any familiarity on our part. Like our caribou, the reindeer will not thrive where the reindeer moss is not found in abundance. How wonderful it is when we think that this particular animal will only exist where a special food is found. Some of us indulge in a glass of reindeer milk, and find it sweet and rich, but the cheeses are terrible inflictions. As to the Lapps, we saw some nomads in the more southern country. They were not a prepossessing people. The term Lapp they do not understand; it may possibly be Swedish, but it is not Norse. In appearance and color, save that they are stunted, they resemble somewhat our Indians, but I did not think their features were like the Esquimaux. They are a pastoral people, but necessity has forced some of them to become fishermen. The Lapp is said to be honest, fairly industrious, and very superstitious, and is devotedly fond of tobacco and corn brandy. Your Lapp not only smokes all the time, but absolutely chews tobacco while he smokes. He is not a frequent inmate of the large towns of Lower Denmark, but in the north he seems of late to take to the towns, where he finds employment as a fisherman. We even find some few Lapps in Christiania. No one can describe Norway or its people without paying some attention to her great fishing interests. Where land is so barren, and climate so ungrateful, the catching of fish is a matter of paramount importance. The hardy Norse mariners, seeking the harvest of the seas, sail away up to the north, and the cod and herring of the Lofoden Islands, when cured and prepared by them, find a market in all parts of the world. Fish are to the Norseman not only food for himself but for his cattle. It often happens, when an early frost comes, and kills the scanty grass, and there is no hay for horse or cow, that these animals become ichthyophagous, and exist on fish. All along the coast, perched on every eminence, may be seen either the hut of the fisherman or a watch tower, so that the movements of the fish as they NORWEGIAN SCENERY. 457 come into the shores can be discovered. The hardihood and daring of these fishermen are extreme. They laugh at wind or weather. We are well acquainted with this brave race in the United States, for the fishing fleet of Gloucester carries out many a Norseman who exercises in American waters the calling acquired in the Northern Ocean. In some respects this northern coast is a dangerous one, though there are so many fjords and islands that shelter is often found. Still one shivers when the thought comes of men exposed to these terrible northern gales, and the horrors of the long nights. Of course Norway is by no means the terra incognita of forty years ago. Besides the magnificence of its scenery, it affords great attraction to the sportsman. In our short excursion into the country we met numerous parties of English gentlemen intent on salmon fishing. In fact, numerous invitations were extended to the General that he should try his hand with rod and fly in some brawling Norwegian stream. But fishing is hardly among the General's accomplishments. We are told by an Englishman that although the sport is pleasant enough, the great drawback are the mosquitoes, which are on a par, as to quantity and aggressiveness, with the insect found in the United States. We spent a few days most pleasantly in our excursion, having seen country life in Norway under peculiar advantages. On our return to Christiania, regal courtesies were offered by his majesty the King, and were accepted by the General. Our stay in the capital of Norway was now drawing to a close. It is on our programme that we are to reach Stockholm on the 24th of July. We bid a good-by to our many Norwegian friends, and the same hearty feeling which was extended to the General on his arrival at Christiania is repeated, only it is to wish him a good-by. We take rail from Christiania by Kingsringer to Stockholm. The country we pass through does not present much beauty. The soil seemed poor, and the crops light, but even such scanty harvest as the ground gives is eagerly sought after. Occasionally we pass near a beautiful lake, all bordered by dark pines, and we have glimpses of mountain ranges behind. What |