and glorious history. More than once she was the conqueror of England, and all Europe wherever a ship could sail has felt her power. Denmark, standing as she did at the entrance. of the Baltic, exacted for many years feudal rights over the expanse of waters. I trust my country has been forgiven long ago because we refused to pay Sound dues and asserted the freedom of the seas. Copenhagen is a most picturesque place, with noble squares and stately houses. It seems strange

that in this far-off city of the North, the artistic tendency should be so conspicuous, but it is manifest everywhere. Something else that strike us is the politeness of the people, the grace of their manner, and their fine personal appearance. Physiologically it is a leading race, and being a handsome one, has stamped its peculiar type on many people. You see the clear gray eye, the flaxen locks, and the finest of profiles. Situated partly on the coast of Zealand, Copenhagen also occupies the island of Amager. All these northern towns have something of a Venetian appearance, for water is used in every way possible as a method of locomotion. The ships are

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moored in canals which are alongside of the busiest of the streets. We are particularly struck by the many brilliant costumes of the country people who throng the streets. have spoken of the artistic tendency of the Danes, as shown in their city of Copenhagen. This is due to the genius of Thorwaldsen. In fact, Denmark has had a modern renaissance, with this advantage that all that was brutal and wicked in men's manners in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries has been eliminated in this new art birth. The influence of Copenhagen has been very great on all Northern Europe, in fact over the whole world. It is not only the genius of Thorwaldsen which asserted its power, for there was once a famous story-teller, who delighted all children in both the New and Old World, and made us look to Denmark with love and reverence. Need I say that it is of Hans Andersen that I write? We all know he died but a year or so ago, but we are very sure that many a man will remember until he goes down to his grave the pleasant stories Andersen told him, and in think

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ing of them will be a child once more. We would have dearly loved to have seen good Hans Andersen, and to have told him how well he was known and appreciated away across the broad ocean. The veneration and respect paid to Thorwaldsen is very evident in Copenhagen, and a great center of attraction is the Thorwaldsen Museum. Here are preserved the greater part of all his works, some three hundred in number. It is the life, the history of a great genius, which can be seen in all its wonderful detail. Though Thorwaldsen has been dead some thirty-four years, his memory seems very fresh. Museums and collec

tions of the greatest merit are to be found in profusion. In Rosenborg Castle are exhibited all the relics belonging to a long race of Danish kings. It is the Ethnographic Museum, contained in the Prindsens Palais, which is the most famous of its kind in the world. Of course, no country save one having ample intercourse with the outside world could have made so perfect a collection. Here are the antiquities of all ages. Here there is a long series of objects which teach us the history, manners, or customs of men of the prehistoric time. There is an absolute thoroughness in all these collections, and an intelligent system employed in their classification, which make them studied throughout Europe. It is accurate science and an absolute acquaintance with facts which is the great moving impulse of the Dane. As has been before

mentioned, however, he is never forgetful of art. This is manifest by the elegant appearance of all the public buildings, and the judicious care evinced in their decoration. At a short distance from the city is the Palace of Fredericksberg, in the midst of a beautiful park. We are attracted that way by the familiar appearance of a New-York built street-car. Two or three of us, intent on a stroll, jump on the car, perfectly indifferent as to where it is going, and thus discover one of the most charming gardens near the city. Here the better classes come to drink their beer, and to eat the delicatessen which Denmark offers. On the long summer evenings, which have scarce any night, we love to while away an hour or so in these gardens. We observe closely the methods of Danish amusement. It is apparently very decorous. very decorous. People seem to enjoy themselves. Young men and handsome girls talk, chat, and laugh, and the parents join in their glee. It is perfectly true that we do not at home know how to amuse ourselves in a similar sensible way. There is a zoological garden here too, and we follow great troops of children and grown people who are to pay a visit to the animals. Our visit to Copenhagen is short, almost too short, but we are under royal commands, and the General bids us hasten away, for we are to touch. at Sweden, and then be off for Norway. Need I always repeat that the Ex-President's reception, no matter where he goes, is of the warmest kind, and that Copenhagen and Denmark are all anxious to do him honor? We bid our many newmade friends a good-by, and crossing the Cattegat, touch at Gottenburg, and then and there make our first acquaintance with the fjords of the great Northern Peninsula. It was the heartiest of welcomes that General Grant met at Gottenburg. There must have been fully five thousand persons, all cheering lustily as our vessel approached the town, so anxious were the good Swedes to show their respect to our chief. Again was the General in what the French call un pays de connaissance, for so many Swedes have emigrated to the United States, that his fame has been spread far and wide through the Great North Country. There was not a big ship at Gottenburg, not even a

fishing shallop, that was not gay with flags. It had been the General's desire to post on at once to Christiania, but he had not the heart, after such a welcome, not to accept at least a portion of the large hospitality offered to him. Now Gottenburg is decidedly a place of interest, as it presents what is quite a rare thing in Europe, the fact that a town may be reborn, and from being comparatively a dead city, like those in Holland, may again spring into life and activity. It was great Gustavus (who rather tore down towns than built them) who first thought that the position of Gottenburg offered certain advantages. In 1834 it was an old town without activity, and with very little if any business outside of its local trade. About the year 1850, Gottenburg began to show signs of improvement, and it is now a handsome well-built city, with a population of forty thousand. It does a great lumber business with England, and when iron. is wanted on the Continent, it is Gottenburg that receives and ships the best Swedish iron. It is called not inappropriately the Liverpool of the North. There are numerous fine, broad streets, and the houses, like all houses in which well-to-do merchants dwell, have an air of solid comfort. The weather is simply delightful now, pleasantly warm midday, with cool nights and mornings, and the heavens all blue without a cloud. We are getting farther and farther north, and though it is July and days are shortening, still we enjoy the long, clear evenings. The day is spent most enjoyably at Gottenburg, and we go the next morning to Christiania. I think the General is touched when he notices that in his especial honor every village we pass near has been decorated by the peasant folk. It is on the 13th of July that we arrive at Christiania, the capital of Norway. If the reception in Sweden was flattering to the General, that in Norway I can hardly describe. It is the most spontaneous of welcomes. There were fully ten thousand people who thronged the quays to see the General. King Oscar himself had left Stockholm, and has made a rapid journey to his capital of Norway, to take the General by the hand and to offer him all courtesy. At home we have seen General Grant as general and President only. These are stations in life

where feelings and emotions must be concealed or at least kept under control. I watch the General as he receives the applause of the Norsemen who give him cheer after cheer as he puts his foot on their hospitable shores. First the General seems puzzled, then the least bit of timidity is visible; there is, too, a

trace of wonderment apparent; but then he fairly unbends, and does show some emotion in his face. I even think he looks happy when he feels sure that all this honor which is paid him is spontaneous and comes from the heart of these northern folks. It is a beautiful day, and the fresh sea air blows across the sparkling waters, and makes little white caps of foam. Nothing can be more enchanting than the view which Christiania