some large chasms on them resembling immense portals and windows; while the road, which is formed on a ledge, appears like a balcony overhanging the sea. Seen by moonlight, they give the idea of some gigantic palace, the residence of the genii of the place.

Noli is about a mile from the last and largest of the grottos, and is a long straggling village built on the beach, immediately fronting the sea. The inn was crowded with guests, who were occupied in supping, singing, and smoking, and was redolent of the mingled odours of garlic, tobacco, and fried fish. At one table a party were devouring maccaroni in a similar manner to that in which an Indian juggler swallows steel; and at another were seated half a dozen persons partaking the contents of a large earthen bowl, the savoury steams of which proclaimed that garlic was one of its principal ingredients. Various small circles were celebrating their bacchanalian orgies round separate tables, and sang, or more properly speaking, roared a sort of wild chaunt, compensating by animation and noise for the great deficiency of harmony; while the smokers sent forth blue curly exhalations,

that partly veiled them from sight. Our passage through the chambers occupied by these groups, although far from being agreeable to us, did not at all disturb them: indeed, they seemed not to notice our presence. We found the noise and effluvia of the house so overpowering, that we were, although fatigued, glad to exchange it for a walk on the shore; where we encountered a numerous procession of monks of the order of White Penitents, followed by nuns and others, amounting to above two hundred, bearing huge wax candles lighted, and carrying large crucifixes, and various other symbols of their religion. They walked two by two, chaunting psalms; and as they slowly moved along, their white robes floating in the air, the lights gleaming, and their voices swelling on the breeze, while the murmuring waves rolled gently forward as if to meet them, and broke in snowy wreaths at their feet, I thought I had seldom beheld a more interesting scene.

VOLTRI, 30th. From Noli we proceeded this morning to Spotorno, Vado, Genolla, and Savona, and arrived at this place to a late dinner. We have been to see the cathedral, which is a very

fine one, and as richly decorated as paintings and gilding can make it. The inn, too, is better than those we have lately encountered; and the aspect of the country, though equally beautiful, is less wild, owing to being much more thickly inhabited. Here, we are to take leave of our mules, and proceed to Genoa in coaches of the country. I shall abandon these sure-footed and patient animals with regret; for a more agreeable mode of traversing a fine country cannot be devised; and it is but justice to them to state, that the obstinacy imputed to them is, in my opinion, either a slander, or at least, a gross exaggeration; for, in the experience of six days, we have not witnessed a single symptom of it.

We passed many fortifications erected on the rocks and coast, between Noli and this place, which add much to the picturesque effect of the scenery. Desirous as I am to see "Genoa the Superb," with its street of palaces, and the treasures of art they contain, I confess that its being the residence of Lord Byron gives it a still greater attraction for His works have excited such a lively interest in my mind, and the stories related of him have so much increased it, that I look forward to making

me.

his acquaintance with impatience. Should he decline seeing us, as he has done to many of his acquaintances, it will be a great disappointment to me; but I will not anticipate such an annoyance. I long to compare him with the beau idéal I have formed in my mind's eye, and to judge how far the descriptions given of him are correct.

GENOA, 31st.The first view of Genoa from the Voltri road is charming. It looks like a fairy city of white marble rising out of the sea, the blue waters of which are only one shade deeper than the cerulean sky with which at a distance they seem to mingle. The approach from Voltri is very fine, presenting palaces with their gardens at each side of the road; and the walls for the most part being painted with landscapes and figures, which though gaudy, have a gay effect. It was night when we entered this place; and the lamps and lights in each house were reflected in the water with an effulgence that looked magical. We arrived in time to witness a grand procession passing through the streets to the principal church. Innumerable dignitaries of the church in rich dresses, attended by priests, monks, and

youths, robed in white, each carrying an immense wax-light, were followed by a number of priests bearing the symbols of their religion. In the centre of the procession was a gilded litter, and on it was placed two figures of the size of life, representing a dead Christ supported in the arms of the Virgin. The litter was covered with flowers, and rich ornaments, and the Virgin was dressed in cloth of gold, the head, neck, and arms covered by a profusion of pearl beads and trinkets. The ghastly image of the Saviour, smeared with blood, and covered with thorns, formed a fearful contrast with the rich habiliments of the Virgin, and the glowing tints of the flowers; while the embroidered vestments of the priests, and the white robes of their followers, were illumined by the blaze of the countless number of wax-lights that surrounded them. Two regiments, in their best uniforms, attended the procession, which moved along with a choral swell of sacred music, the whole scene having more the character of a triumphal entry than a solemn religious ceremony.

Our inn, the Alberga del la Villa, appears like a palace, after those to which we have lately been.