of the route; which commands a fine view of the mountains on each side, and of the rivers Isère and Drave, the latter of which is very rapid, and must be crossed to arrive at Sassenage. Having reached this place, we left our carriage, and, conducted by two guides, proceeded up the mountain, by the side of a torrent. The ascent is very steep, and somewhat dangerous, but the views it commands are so beautiful that the fatigue and danger are amply repaid. After a walk of twenty minutes, we crossed the foaming torrent, on a plank brought for the purpose, on the shoulders of the guides; and soon reached the cascade formed by the vast rush of water from the cavern above. This waterfall proceeds from a subterranean stream issuing rapidly through a number of less caverns, formed in the rocky mountain. On ascending still higher, we reached the opening of the grotto, which has a very grand and imposing effect; and then entered the subterraneous gallery, preceded by our guides bearing torches. This passage is so low and narrow, that we had great difficulty in groping our way through it, though nearly on our knees. We at length arrived at a point that commands a view of

per

the foaming gulf beneath; the noise of which is fectly appalling, as, lashed into fury, it sends its snowy spray in showers around. Having resumed the steep passage to the entrance of the grand cavern, we descended by an abrupt route, formed by large disjointed fragments of rocks; and crossed subterranean streams, winding round by the ledge of a vast rock, which having passed, we entered another grotto, through which the water rushes with a noise and rapidity truly surprising. All further access is prevented by the water, the deafening sound of which is reverberated through the corridors. The picture here presented was very sublime; the guides tossing about the torches to display the wonders of the place, their wild and haggard countenances tinged by the glare of the lights, which fell also on the dark water, giving its rushing masses a shade of lurid red. Their gestures too were so fantastic, as they endeavoured to point out to our observation the objects worthy of notice, all attempt at speaking, or at least of being heard, being from the noise of the water impossible, that there was something unearthly in the appearance of the whole scene.

Every turn of the descent to the village of Sassenage presents some fresh scene of wild beauty. Waterfalls rushing from fissures in the sterile mountain, large and isolated rocks of the most grotesque forms, trees and wild shrubs scattered between, and mountain rising over mountain, capped with snow; while at the bottom, a fertile valley glowing with cherry orchards and mulberry trees, not yet despoiled of their foliage;-all combine to render this one of the most picturesque and striking scenes imaginable. It is with great regret that I find we must abandon our projected visit to the celebrated Chartreuse in this neighbourhood; as the route, from the season being so far advanced, is considered unsafe.

ST. MARCELLIN, 13th.-The road from Grenoble to this place passes through a fertile and fine country, diversified by woods, vineyards, and mountains. The town itself has little to recommend it, save its excellent inn, la petite France, and its most attentive and obliging hostess. Both appear to great advantage after those of Vienne, where the discomfort of the accommodation, and extravagance of the charges, must often vex the traveller who sojourns there.

Our hostess, as if aware of our recent privations, gave us a dinner copious enough to have satisfied a large party of gourmands, though not of a choice to have gratified the more fastidious taste of an epicure. She seemed to think that quantity was more essential than quality; for the table might well have groaned beneath the weight of the feast. In truth, twenty English labourers could not have consumed the repast set before us, which for four persons, consisted of no less than thirteen substantial dishes. It reminded me of the profusion of an inn dinner in the unfrequented parts of the south of Ireland; and the assiduities of the hostess, "who gaily pressed and smiled," was not unlike those exhibited by Irish landladies, who, " on hospitable thoughts intent," seemed to believe that their

could never have too much for their money.

guests

14th. The profusion of yesterday has been followed by a famine to-day. Not wishing to travel on the sabbath, we remained here; a contingency which our hostess had neither foreseen nor provided for, consequently her larder was but scantily stocked; and our servants, whose appetites are less delicate

than ours, had consumed the viands despatched from our table last evening.

The sabbath cannot be said to be a day of rest in France; it is, on the contrary, a day of pleasure; and the town has been filled with groups of both sexes, and of all ages, busy in the pursuit of amusement. This passion never seems to subside in the hearts of the gay and volatile inhabitants of this nation. The oldest men and women seek it with no less avidity than the young, and emulate them in the zest with which they indulge it. The gaiety that has prevailed here all day, had however nothing gross or disgusting in its exhibition. No symptom of intoxication could be discovered in the men, and the women, though lively, were not indecorous.

VALENCE, 15th.-Valence formed the duchy of Valentinois, that title disgraced by him on whom it was so improperly bestowed, the execrable Cæsar Borgia. This is a town of considerable extent, but its streets are narrow, irregular, and dirty. The house, in an obscure street, was pointed out to us, in which Napoleon Bonaparte, when a lieutenant in the artillery, spent many months. They were