have currency worth twenty-five per cent. less. than its nominal value, since that would mean that for his English sovereign he would get twenty-five shillings. But he thinks he has a reasonable right to demand that he shall know a yen note when he sees it, and shall not confound a fifty-yen note with one valued at twenty. Formerly yen notes were recognizable at sight, having the figure "one" printed on them in numerals. Now there are yen notes of various colours, sizes, and designs, with no figure of denomination printed on them. The fifties are the same size as the twenties, and are exactly the same pattern save for cabalistic signs in the corners-of course plain enough to the Japanese, but worse than Greek to the foreigner. It is true that if you know where to look for it, and have a microscope handy, you can discover the figure "twenty" printed on the tenpenny note, and "fifty" on the twoshilling one. But these are not conditions always realizable, especially at night.

I heard of a recent visitor to Japan who had only a month to see the country in. Like John Gilpin, "tho' on pleasure bent he had a frugal mind," and a dear friend estimated that he spent one week of the four in studying his notes before he made payments, and went away saddened by the conviction that he

had three times paid away fifty-yen notes for twenty. This is not likely to be strictly true, but it indicates a matter of considerable embarrassment to visitors to Japan, and might be commended to the attention of the Government among their other reforms.

The explanation of this shower of diverse designs in copper plate is the establishment of national banks, of which there are no less than 152, each authorized to issue its own notes. The necessity for diversity of designs is obvious; but there is the more reason why the denomination should be made clear. The silver yen, a strikingly handsome coin, is now at par with the Mexican dollar. It is, indeed, preferred by tradespeople and banks, since Chinese industry has found a new and wide field in dealing with the Mexican coin. By the exercise of dexterity and industry the artisan removes the face from one side of the coin, cuts out the silver, fills up the cavity with baser metal, and resets the face in a way that makes it difficult for any but trained eyes to detect the fraud. So So widely has this practice obtained, that when payment is made in Mexican dollars the recipient rings every coin. It is of no consequence when the transaction does not exceed three or four dollars, but when it comes to thirty, forty, or over, it

is rather a bore to have to stand by and watch each coin tested. This is necessary, since the industry branches out in another direction, and the guileless-looking Chinese, who is judicially testing your money, may have ready at hand a few of these manipulated coins ready for opportunities. These somehow get mixed up with yours, and he, with a pitying smile for your earlier misfortune, will invite you to replace them with sterling silver.

Between luncheon and dinner was a convenient time for witnessing a cremation. In Tokio, the principal place of cremation is situated at Shen-jo, a suburb reached through long lines of busy streets. It was fête day in the neighbourhood, and we approached it through a dense crowd of holiday makers. The shops were brightly lit. Jinrikshas abounded, most of them holding two, and one at least four, persons, two being babies. On these occasions the Japan infant obtains a change of view and position. For the most part it peers out upon the world round the side of its mother's or sister's head. But it being physically impossible for a woman to sit in a jinriksha with the everlasting baby at her back, it is, on this occasion only, slewed round to the front.

Many of the tea-houses in this quarter were brilliantly illuminated with scores of lanterns. One, which our guide said was "a goose-house," had over a hundred, a tall pole running up from before it hanging out a score. It appears that the Japanese is rapidly developing carnivorous tastes. As the home culinary department is not yet equal to cooking joints, the luxurious Japanese of the lower middle class goes out to a beef-house, or a goose-and-duck house, and feeds on the unfamiliar viand.

After an hour's drive through a lane of busy life we came to the silent house where the dead awaited the last service of the living. It stands a little apart from the main road, a building of a single story, with an innocentlooking tall chimney, that might be connected with a pottery or a small iron-foundry. The business is always conducted privately, and there are few in Tokio, except those who are professionally engaged, who have witnessed the process. But arrangements made by the omnipotent Foreign Minister opened the doors, and secured a respectful welcome. We were first received in the house of the manager, where tea was served in priceless porcelain cups of Kutani ware. The furnace, if so imposing a name may be used for a process so

simple, stood a few paces from the house. On entering it there was nothing to be seen but what appeared to be two butter-tubs resting upon a few faggots of wood. There were several cavities about two inches deep and a foot long in the stone floor, and these were filled with shavings. According to municipal law, no burning is to be done before half-past six in the evening. It still wanted ten minutes to that time, but in the circumstances the manager thought he would be safe in anticipating the hour, and the shavings were fired.

One of the men, kneeling before the growing flame, fanned it with a piece of wood. It caught the dry faggots, greedily licked the sides of the tubs, rose high in the air, and then, with a horrible thud, the head of the barrel burst outwards. Quick as thought, the man seized a large piece of wood, lying by in readiness, and hid from sight whatever may have protruded. It is the boast of the skilful cremator that under his supervision the contents of the barrel are never exposed to view. A heavy matting of wet straw is laid over the length of the barrel before the fire is ignited. As the barrel is burned away this falls in and covers the body. In three hours the work is done. Every particle of flesh is burned away, and there remains only the skeleton.