back to half. Then you split the difference. He will smile nonchalantly, shrug his shoulders and say "No can.” You shrug yours, say "marskee" and walk away-don't look back, though. He won't let you go far before you hear his voice; and as you reluctantly return he will smile again and say "Can do, one dolla." Then give him ninety cents and go your way. You will be satisfied and will look so. So will he be satisfied and have reason to be but he won't show it.

Among the sights of Canton, the temples take a prominent place and are very interesting. The most noteworthy of them is the Temple of the "Five Hundred Gods"-called by the Chinese Fan Lum Sze-which is situated in the western suburbs and consists of a number of stately halls where a variety of enthroned deities, five hundreds of them, preside in all the gilded pomp and magnificence befitting these satirical effigies of the great Buddhist worthies and religious fanatics of historical and mythological renown. While passing through the seemingly lifeless streets of the Tartar Quarter we come to the handsome Bell Temple or Temple of the Five Genii. "This institution, being well endowed, and also supported by considerable subscriptions among the Tartar military officials, is kept in better order than most of the temples within the city. After traversing the usual quadrangle in front a flight of steps is reached, above which a highly ornamental gateway was built in 1842 from funds. contributed by the celebrated Ki-ying, the Imperial Commissioner for foreign affairs. In addition to the main hall containing an image of the Supreme Divinity of the Taoust faith, there are lateral enclosures each containing separate places of worship. The principal "sights" connected with this Temple were until lately its gigantic bell, and the stone images of five (supernatural) rams, but these latter were destroyed in a conflagration which consumed the rear building in which they stood some three years since. The legend with reference to the foundation of this Temple is that, some twenty centuries ago, five shepherds were seen on the site where the building now stands, who suddenly became transformed into an equal number of rams, while these again instantly changed into stone, a voice being heard at the same time pro

claiming that, so long as these supernatural objects should be worshipped on this spot, the prosperity of the adjoining city should endure. From that day forward (runs the story) these images have remained on the identical spot, and it is certain that from time immemorial they have been looked upon with superstitious reverence; nor is it the less remarkable that the destruction of their shrine should coincide so closely with the actual decline in the prosperity of the city. The stones were almost shapeless blocks of granite, about eighteen inches high and the same in length, with some rude attempt at sculpture in the form of a ram's head. From them and their attendant legend Canton derived its soubriquet of the city of Rams, but the legend itself is traced by Chinese philosophers to an accidental resemblance between the word signifying "ram" or "sheep" and the ancient designation of the province of Kwang-tung. This is a striking corroboration of Professor Müller's dictum that all myths are merely amplifications of some forgotten sound.

Immediately in front of the building in which these mystic stones were preserved stands a remarkable pile of masonry traversed by an archway some 20 feet in height and open at the crown in the centre, above which, from lofty rafters supported by pillars placd on the top of the arch-way, hangs an enormous bell. This was cast and placed in its present position, it is believed, some two centuries ago, but in consequence of a prophecy which was uttered at the time, foretelling calamity to Canton whenever this bell should give forth sound, it was deprived of a clapper and all means of access to it were removed. The knowledge of this prophecy served to bring about its fulfilment. When the bombardment of the defences of Canton took place in 1857, prior to the capture of the city, it was suggested to the commander of one of H. M's. ships to aim a shot at this bell, and the result was that, while calamity was indeed befalling the haughty city, the bell, struck by a cannon-ball, boomed forth its unwonted sound. The effects of the shot are seen in the fracture of the lower rim of the bell. Immediately beneath it is placed a large iron censer, which incense, offered to the spirit of the bell, is kept constantly burning.

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On the east of the main hall is a small enclosure surrounding a pond, on the red sandstone floor of which is seen the shape of a gigantic foot, declared by the priests to be the impress left by the divine Buddha; and on the opposite side down a flight of steps is the shrine of Golden Flowers, where the deity who corresponds in China to the Venus Genitrix of Rome is besought to bless mothers with offspring. Images of the hand-maidens of this benign goddess are placed in shrines on both sides of the temple, each holding one or more newly born infants upon her knee. Mothers making vows or prayers before a particular image are accustomed to tie a piece of red cord around the figure of one of the infants in token of their wish. At the head of the enclosure is placed a small building containing an image of the mighty Kwan, the God of War. His frowning visage, and bow and sword suspended by the altar indicates the martial character of the idol. Here the Tartar aspirants for promotion make sacrifice before appearing at the examinations.”

From an architectural point of view the official residences are well worth visiting. But it is not easy to gain admission to a Yamen-unless the "great man" is absent. Then by a judiciously bestowed "cumshaw" his underlings or runners will show you round. These residences are easily distinguished by their high triple gateways outside of which numerous proclamations and orders are posted up. On entering, the visitor passes several courtyards the sides of which are lined with the servants. offices and rooms; then come the reception rooms, tribunal, private apartments and treasury. But we have no time for more sightseeing now; we must hurry down to the landing-stage or we shall lose the Hongkong boat.

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