Farewell, Red Fort! No longer from those towers The exiled sentries keep Their lonely vigil thro' the anxious hours, While exiled comrades sleep, In armour clad. Kozinga's warlike junks no longer rise Above the sea's dark line; No more beneath the gold of evening skies For they have gone. Gone! But a crumbling relic of their age The changing scenery of the time-worn stage, No more than dust. XXI. A RUN DOWN THE COAST. THE Douglas, Lapraik and Co.'s steamship "Formosa" was ad vertised to sail from Tamsui for Hongkong, via Amoy and Swatow, on Tuesday, November 24th, 1891, at 4.30 p.m. It had been blowing a very heavy N.E. gale for some days, consequently there was a tremendous sea breaking over the bar. This, however, did not intimidate our plucky commander, who, never loth, was ready to start. Precisely at the appointed time the propeller was tried-much to the annoyance of several enterprising sampan men-undergoing a sort of preliminary "backing and filling" process, to thoroughly satisfy the engineers that all was right with the engines, and to warn all loafers and cake venders that the ship was ready to start. Then the Customs boat, with the gay yellow dragon-flag fluttering from the stern, hove in sight and came alongside. The ship's papers were delivered to the captain, and the steamer pronounced as "cleared" and prepared for sea. Then the whistle sounded, as did the voices of several superfluous loafers as they "cleared" over the side with considerable interest and remarkable despatch. But all to no purpose for old "Chop Dollar," the pilot, who had been anxiously surveying the angry "bar" for some time, solemnly declared that there was far too much sea breaking there; and a departure under these circumstances would have been attended with much risk and danger to ship and crew. So there was no other alternative but to remain where we were, and wile the time away as best we could, much to the satisfaction of all those who were not altogether desirous of taking soundings under most adverse circumstances. Throughout the night the gale increased, and continued with unabating fury until the morning of the 27th, when Captain Hall determined, in spite of the dangerous-looking bar and the remonstrances of the Chinese pilot, to attempt a departure. The ship was accordingly got under way at 7.30 p.m., and headed out for the dreaded and often fatal barrier, where a line of white foam. gradually assumed alarming dimensions as we steadily and swiftly approached. A low thundering roar-a breaking of huge white-topped billows soon accompanied by a dull but alarmingly sudden and heavy thud which shook us considerably, was the first intimation that we sluggards received of the vessel's near approach to the bar of dark renown. She bumped twice. Answering for myself, I can truthfully say that I "shipped" my clothes with much promptitude, and, without waiting to complete my toilet, rushed out on deck, endeavouring, however, to appear much interested and equally unconcerned. I found that the actual bar was still a distance of some 40ft. or 50ft. ahead; and it was not at all pleasant or pretty to look at. I immediately ordered a cup of coffee, flavoured with Hennessy's nerve-giving "three star" cream, before further ascertaining, with a sigh of relief, that the steamer was now being manoeuvred in such a manner as to place it beyond doubt that we were going back to breakfast in Tamsui. In turning round, the worthy captain showed no little skill in handling a large vessel in a dangerously narrow and shallow place, under the most critical and unfavourable circumstances. Throughout that day the wind blew strong, veering about from north-east to north, occasionally accompanied by heavy squalls. During the afternoon we were invited by Captain Leffler aboard the steamer "Smith," which, with the "Cass" and the "Formosa," had been bar-bound for some days. We enjoyed a very pleasant musical afternoon aboard the "Smith," Mr. P-, one of our passengers, quite charming us with some of his own compositions arranged for the piano, which he rendered with much ability. We returned to a late dinner aboard the "Formosa," afterwards enjoying a very interesting chat, and the proverbial evening pipe with Captain Hall, who, throughout the trying passage across the stormy channel, was not only attentive, hospitable, and courteous, but also very cheerful and entertaining, quite winning our confidence and esteem. As I have said before, the China-coast captains are a splendid set of hardy, hospitable men, who never change with the weather or veer with the wind. Next morning, November 28th, the steamer got under way once more, and at eight a.m., in company with the "Cass," steamed down the harbour, soon leaving astern the rustic homes which nestle among the banyan trees and the tree-shaded Red Fort which crowns the hill above, scenes that are oft recalled in after years when many miles away. The Cass" kept a little in advance of the "Formosa" until crossing the bar, where a nasty "swell" was still breaking in some places. Here the former vessel bumped heavily once or twice, and, as we came quickly up close under her quarter, suddenly became stationary, having grounded on the bar. Then we gave a lurch, and also struck with a mighty thud, and it was only the very prompt and skillful way in which Captain Hall acted at this critical moment that saved both ships, which were then only about 40ft. apart, and would inevitably have crushed each other to pieces had they then "lagged" together, which was extremely difficult to prevent. I was standing on the bridge. beside Captain Hall, and having been some years at sea, could realize the full extent of our danger, but he was quite calm and composed, standing with one hand on the engine-room telegraph, and eyes fixed on the other ship. Then his hand moved the handle and the electric bell rang. "Full-speed astern" and "helm hard-a-starboard!" were now the prompt orders issued. And then, having worked our vessel to a safer position, and still being in danger of drifting to leeward, commands were given to go "full speed ahead" and "port the helm." Ahead we went in good style, passing the "Cass," which soon afterwards got off and shaped a northerly course, bound for Shanghai; while we bore away to the westward, soon changing our course to W. by S. S. As the land gradually faded from sight, the wind increased to a gale, with a corresponding sea. The jib, fore-topsail, foresail, and fore and main trysails were then set, and, with wind abaft the beam, the "Formosa" went booming" along at the rate of 12 knots an hour, and, in spite of the heavy sea that was running, behaved admirably, showing many of her good qualities to the best advantage. I can safely say that, for travellers to the southern ports of China, the Douglas, Lapraik and Co.'s steamers are the most safe and comfortable, and the China Merchants' Steam Navigation Company's boats for the ports north of Shanghai. Ockseu light was sighted on the starboard beam at five p.m., at which time we encountered several heavy squalls, with a little rain. Dodd Island was passed at ten p.m., and the sea became much smoother as we neared the land, so that the passengers were enabled to enjoy a fairly good night's rest, which was only pleasantly broken at 12.14 p.m. by the welcome sound of the anchor being dropped in the outer harbour of Amoy, after a smart run across of sixteen hours and fifteen minutes, covering 190 miles. Sunday was spent quietly and uneventfully, and on Monday the harbour was gaily decorated, most of the vessels, of which there were many, displaying the code of signals and flying symbols of congratulation to a young lady and her bridegroom, captain of the barque "Sebastian Bach"-who were married at 3.30 pm., at the Union Church, Kulangsoo. It appeared that there had been considerable excitement and apprehension felt in Amoy for some time owing to a threatened attack of some rioters, who goaded on by a number of Kolao Hwei* men, were advancing upon Amoy, coming from the country to the eastward, where they had committed great depredations. The Consuls, aided by the Taotai, managed however to intimidate them sufficiently to alter their plans and arrest their further progress, and all seemed quiet again; but a man-of-war would have given a sense of security not often felt by the numerous foreign residents there. At "eight bells"-four o'clock-on the afternoon of November 30th, the "Formosa" again hove up anchor, bound for Swatow and Hongkong. Onward we went at full speed, soon leaving the * The Kolao Hwei, Tripod, and Tsing Li Secret Societies are anti-Manchoo, and are very powerful. |