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inland. And this had been going on uninterrupted for years, smuggler after smuggler having used these underground cellars, made his fortune, and retired.

One of these inland smuggling depôts, situated across the bay some miles to the westward, near an ancient factory, I was on the verge of discovering. But a despatch had been immediately sent to Sir Robert Hart, at Pekin, after the seizure, and I was now transferred on promotion to Amoy, having made a very good thing out of the find.

On July 4th, at 4.30, I left Chefoo in the s.s. "Haeting," after a short but pleasant stay of eight months there.

ODE TO CHEFOO.

S.S. "HAETING," JULY 4TH, 1888.

Now as I gaze upon thy peaceful strand,
By fragrant airs of early summer fann'd,
Ling'ring I watch each twilight shade pourtray
The homely picture of a happy day

That now declines: but each receding scene
Will form the landscape of some future dream

Of perfect rest: and mem'ry will alight

On verdant ways, now fading, as the night
Steals gently forward, and the soft-toned breeze
Trips lightly homeward o'er the Eastern seas.

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XV. -AMOY AND CHANGCHOW.

THE

HE island of Haimun is one of the most important of the islands on the seaboard of the province of Fuhkien, or "Happy Establishment," as the province was denominated in place of its ancient one of Min, which is the name borne by a river that has its source in its boundaries. And Amoy, a walled city of the third degree of rank, is the capital, famed for its oysters and luscious pumeloes; and its exquisite rice-paper flowers and carved peachstone necklaces and bracelets. It is situated in lat. 29° 40' north, and long. 118 east, in the midst of a beautiful bay that is protected seaward by a chain of islands, the largest of which is Quemoy, or "The Golden Gate"; and at its south-western end is the mouth of the Lung Kang, or "Dragon" river, which runs in a westerly direction to the departmental city of Changchow (the Taitun of Marco Polo), which is about 36 miles from Amoy. A visitor to the city of Changchow writes thus:

"The approach to Changchow does not give much warning to the visitor of his being in the neighbourhood of a populous city. Almost the first intimation is the sight of a long high bridge crossing the river, with houses erected upon it. It is built on stone piles 25 in number, each 20 feet high and 20 feet apart. Large round beams of wood are laid from pile to pile, and smaller pieces across these, on which rests a brick and stone pavement. The workmanship is clumsy but massive, some of the stones used

in the pavement being 45 feet in length and two feet in breadth. The bridge is almost 10 feet in width, and about one half of its length on both sides is covered with shops. The usual landing place is just below the bridge. About a mile higher up the river is a second and similar bridge, and, just beyond this, a temple, which is reputed to be of great antiquity. It bears marks of extreme age in the decay everywhere visible, and is said to have been erected about A.D. 600 (time of the Sui Dynasty). In the central shrine are seven gigantic figures, flanked by 15 others of life size, at right angles on either side. To the right of the main building is another, containing an immense idol about 20ft. in height, carved out of solid granite.

"Some of the streets of Changchow are very wide, but the majority are as filthy and offensive as those of most Chinese towns. There are several good shops, and the markets are well supplied. At the northwest corner is another temple containing even more figures than that above mentioned. It contains a shrine dedicated to Chu-fu-tzu*, and a house, reputed to have been his, exists in the centre of the city, which is surrounded by a wall that nearly forms a square, its southern side following the curve of the river and, from the watch-towers that crown them, more than forty villages are visible."

Amoy is the safest and decidedly the most picturesque harbour in China; and, during the beautiful summer evenings, I used to take the four-oared gig and drift down with the tide to the outer harbour-there being an outer and inner one-enjoying the cool sea breeze and the wild romantic scenery. If the reader would like to catch a glimpse of this beautiful scene, he cannot do better than step into my boat and accompany me, in imagination, on one of these pleasant evening trips.

It is the close of bright day, and the soft rays of twilight, blending with the shades of approaching night, illume the western landscape, where the imposing heights of distant mountains loom up in solitary grandeur amidst the mellow shadows of departing day. With them they disappear in the fading light leaving but

* A very celebrated and prolific writer on Chinese classics.

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