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EAST BY WEST.

CHAPTER I.

DINING AND CREMATING.

WE lunched with Mr. Inouyé, the Foreign Minister, at his pretty country house on the outskirts of Tokio. Mr. Ito was present, together with several English gentlemen who have been closely associated with the Government of Japan in furthering its desire of drawing nearer to Western civilization. The Foreign Office, where Mr. Inouyé officially resides, is furnished throughout in European style. At his country house the Foreign Minister preserves the two styles, there being a suite of reception and dining rooms furnished in European style, and one wing of the house in Japanese manner. There is no doubt which

VOL. II.

20

is the prettier. Nothing could be daintier or in better taste than the Japanese house. The colouring is exquisite; the various woods, simply polished and showing the grain, are a pleasure to look upon. The house stands high, with trees and fields facing it, and in summer weather must be the perfection of a summer residence.

What can be done in the way of grafting European notions of furniture upon the Japanese style of house architecture, is seen in a pretty little bungalow which Mr. Greville, of the British Embassy, has built for himself at Tokio. He took what was originally a Japanese house, made a few alterations while strictly preserving its style, and then began to furnish and adorn it with prizes drawn in the curio lottery. Mr. Trench pathetically complains that when paying a visit he is always afraid to move about, being prone either to knock his head against the ceiling, or to knock over something on tables or floor. But the chargé d'affaires is a very tall man, and even he is not so dangerous as he represents himself.

It is very difficult now to obtain really old lacquer or old things of any kind in Japan. Madame Inouyé is happy in many priceless possessions. She has not only knowledge and special opportunities of exercising it, but

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