Preface HE sketches which are here collected and reprinted were some of the records of many journeys at the time the writer's avocations led him to travel almost yearly across the continent of India. They were labours of love, written during the intervals of graver occupations, and the author trusts that the work may reflect some of his own keen enjoyment in these cities, and some of their serene charm and Oriental enchantment. He has endeavoured, both by conversation and reading, to enter into the spirit of the times in which each temple or mosque or palace was produced, and into the manners and customs of those who erected it. By selections from the ancient records and old books of travels, and the great Anglo-Indian classics, he has endeavoured to give life to old scenes, and to reproduce sentiments unfamiliar to the present generation. After giving an account of the story of each city, he has referred to the prominent objects of interest in it, and he has borrowed freely from the inquirers of other days whatsoever he considered important, as illustrating their architecture or antiquity. He has endeavoured to acknowledge in all cases the sources of his information, but as some of the papers were written twenty years ago it has not always been easy to trace them. He has also borrowed from the Introductions to the volumes of State Papers edited by him, on the old principle that a man may once say a thing as he would have it said—he cannot say it twice. These papers have been selected and arranged so that the volume might adapt itself to the traveller. The visitor, if he starts from Bombay and stays a few days at the cities in the order in which they are given in this book, will see a great deal that is best worth seeing on the continent of India, within moderate compass of time. All he can never see, and there is subject enough for twenty quartos. As a large number of people who must remain at home take an interest and feel a pride in our Indian Empire, it is hoped that these papers may offer them some pleasure and some information. Of their omissions and imperfections, no one can be more conscious than the author. The papers headed Bombay, Delhi, and Calcutta appeared in the Pall Mall Magazine, and the permission to reprint and use the illustrations is hereby gratefully acknowledged. It remains to thank those from whom the writer has had the privilege of receiving advice, and who have assisted him in the dull task of proof reading and correction. The spelling of Indian words is bound to cause great difficulty; but in a book of this kind it would be out of place to follow always too closely the somewhat pedantic official system of transliteration, which has proved a stumbling-block to ordinary English people, and a great non-conductor of interest. Contents Appearance from the sea-Occupied by Humphrey Cook, 1663— Historical interest of Surat-Its antiquity-Barbosa's description- Portuguese inroads-Seized by Akbar-First English Trading Company-Captain Hawkins-Sir H. Middleton-Captain Best: engages the Portuguese-The Firman-Nicholas Dounton de- feats the Portuguese-Sir Thomas Roe makes a treaty with the Emperor's son-Naval engagements, 1630—Growth of the Com- pany-Sir George Oxinden: defends the factory against Shivaji— Fryer's description of the settlement, 1674-Ostentation of the early factors: disapproval of the Home Authorities-Lieutenant- Governor appointed-Decline of Surat-Brigg's description of the Architectural and historical interest-Vama Raja-Anahelavada- PAGE I bar-Jainism and Buddhism: Mahāvira-Muhammadan influ- ence on Hindu Architecture-The Jumma Musjid-Mosque of Rani Sipri-The Queen's Mosque-Shah Alum's Tomb-The Teen Durwaza-Mandelslo's visit, 1638: his interview with the Viceroy, Azam Khan: the Viceroy's cruelties—Mandelslo's de- scription of the English factory-Thomas Aldworth-Kerridge imprisoned released by Sir T. Roe's firmness, 1616-Ahme- dabad in the seventeenth century—Skill of Ahmedaban artificers Physical Geography of the district-The Rajpoots: their pride of birth-Jain shrines-" Patience is the highest good"—The Arhai-din-ka-jhompra: described by Tod and Fergusson-The Aja-mer-The Ana Sangur-The Doulat Bagh-Jehangir's Diary -Rana Umra Sing: abdicates in favour of his son-Aurangzeb- Fate of the Emperor Farukshir-The Barha Seiads-Ajit Sing seizes Tarragurh-Murder of Ajit devotion of his wives- Battle of Mairta-Murder of Raja Bukht-Assassination of Ram Sing-Surrender of Ajmer to the Mahrattas-Mistaken policy of Wellesley's successors— -Energy of Lord Hastings-The Mayo College Lord Mayo's speech-Sir T. Roe's account of Jehangir's PAGE Position and importance of the city-Early chiefs of Jeypore State- Raja Bagwandas: his daughter's marriage-Maun Sing-Jey Sing his tragic death-Jey Sing the Second: his scientific attain- ments-The Kantra-Vedyadhar designs the city of Jeypore-Its theatrical appearance—The Temple of the Winds—The Chandra Mahal-Reception of Bishop Heber, 1817: the Rani's gifts- Jota Ram's conspiracy-Council of Regency-Ram Sing- Siwai Madhao-The Albert Hall-School of Art-Description of Amber-The Diwan-i-Khas-Its hidden sculptures-The Jey Mandir The Sukh Nawas-Rajpoot's treatment of women— Antiquity and importance-Indrapastha-Iron pillar of Raja Dhava— |