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endeavored to remove it. But every ladder they planted broke in the middle! This enraged the French, who then brought a cannon to batter down door and picture together; but, do what they would, the dry powder was possessed by the devil of water, who was too much for the devil of fire, and would not explode! At last they made a great fire with coals over the touch-hole: the powder was now subdued, but it exploded the wrong way, blowing the cannon into a thousand pieces, and some of the French artillerymen into the bargain, while gate and picture remained unharmed! The spoilers, now overmastered by dread, withdrew, acknowledging the miraculous power. Such is the story told by the taper-seller at the gate. The origin of the custom of uncapping at the 'Holy Gate' is unknown; several traditions are extant, yet the authenticity of any fact is lost in the darkness of ages; but the feelings of devotion are still fresh and powerful, and it is a question. how weighty a bribe would be sufficient to induce a Russian to pass this archway, by either day or night, without uncovering his head. The Emperor himself bares his imperial brow as he approaches the Spaskoi; the officer and soldier in all the pomp and circumstance of war do the same; and thus tradition says it has been since the wooden walls of the first Kremlin were raised. The greatest care is taken not to allow dogs to enter by the Saviour's gatea proof that in a religious point of view the Russians look upon this animal as unclean."

General Grant reached Warsaw on the 13th. After a brief stay here, he passed on to Vienna, where he arrived on Sunday, August 18th. At the railroad station he was met by Minister Kasson, the secretaries and members of the American Legation, and a large number of the American residents. He was loudly cheered as he stepped out of the railway-carriage.

On the 19th, the General was visited at the Legation of the United States by Count Andrassy, the First Minister of the Council, and several colleagues. In the evening, he dined with the Countess and Mrs. Grant at Post's. On the 20th, he had an audience of His Imperial Majesty Francis Joseph at the lovely palace of Schoenbrunn, spending the remainder of the day driving about the imperial grounds and forests, and visiting points of interest in that romantic and historic neighborhood.

On the 21st, General and Mrs. Grant were entertained by the imperial family, and dined with the Emperor in the evening. During the morning, Baron Steinberg accompanied the Emperor's American guests to the Arsenal.

On the 22d, Minister Kasson gave a diplomatic dinner in honor of our ex-President, at which nearly all the foreign Ambassadors were present. The members of the AustroHungarian Cabinet attended the reception in the evening, and added to the attractiveness and brilliancy of the occasion. The General expressed himself greatly pleased with Vienna; thinks it a charming city. He was gratified also at the marked attentions of the Emperor's household, and the earnest endeavor shown to honor him as a citizen of the United States.

On the following Monday he left for Steirmart. After a short stop here, and a ramble through other Austrian cities and towns, he returned to Paris on the 25th of September. He was met at the station by Minister Noyes, ex-Governor Fairchild, ex-Governor McCormick, and other American officials. The General was in excellent health and spirits, and had experienced so little fatigue during his journey that, after dining en famille, he strolled along the boulevards for more than two hours.

Among the many fêtes given in honor of General Grant's return to Paris, none is more important than the dinner

given by Mr. Edward F. Noyes, the United States Minister, at the Legation. Among the invited guests were the following distinguished Americans:-General and Mrs. Grant, John Welsh, Minister to England; John A. Kasson, Minister to Austria; J. Meredith Read, Chargé d'Affaires to Greece; General Hazen, United States Army; General Lucius Fairchild, Consul-General at Paris; ex-Governor McCormick, Commissioner-General to the Paris Exposition; ex-Governor Smith, of New Hampshire, and Miss Waite, daughter of the Chief Justice of the Supreme Court of the United States.

On the 10th of October, General Grant left Paris for Spain.

CHAPTER XXIII.

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THE

-

- AT

A MESSAGE FROM THE KING OF SPAIN - - GLIMPSES OF
SPANISH LIFE- CASTELAR'S GREETING-AMONG THE
PYRENEES ARRIVAL AT VITTORIA MEETING
KING CONVERSATION WITH GENERAL GRANT
MADRID-WELCOME BY MR. LOWELL-RECOLLECTIONS
OF MADRID-NEW LIFE IN THE CAPITAL-LOTTERIES
IN SPAIN - HOW THEY ARE MANAGED -
COMES
THE SPANIARDS' MONEY EXPENSES OF

STATE

OF

THE REAL POSITION OF THE KING.

WHAT BE

It was the intention of General Grant, when he left Paris, to make a short visit to the Pyrenees, and especially Pau. But when he came to Bordeaux he was met by a message from the King of Spain, who was at the time at Vittoria, directing the manoeuvres of his troops, and who especially requested that the General would honor him with a visit. If there is one thing the General dislikes it is reviewing troops; but the message from the King was so cordial that it could hardly be declined. Accordingly Pau was postponed, and the General went on as far as Biarritz, meaning to rest over night and cross the frontier next day. Resuming their journey, the little town of Irun, which is just over the frontier, afforded the first glimpse of Spanish life and character. Its neat railway-station was draped with flags and bunting, and on the platform was a group of officers of the Royal Guard, standing apart from those privileged citizens who had been admitted within the barriers. Beyond, clearly seen through the gates and station windows, struggling for a view of the distinguished visitor, were the villagers and the country people, who, denied

admission to the yard, were none the less active in their demonstrations of curiosity.

As the train drew up at the platform, General Grant alighted from his carriage. The ranking officer of the delegation, a general on the staff of Alfonso XII., advanced and, saluting the visitor, welcomed him, in the King's name, to the Iberian peninsula. He stated that he was directed by His Majesty to place at the General's disposal the special railway-carriage of the King, and to beg an acceptance of the same. General Grant expressed his thanks in a few words and accepted the proffered courtesy. The train moved out of the little village towards the warbegrimed city of San Sebastian-the last stronghold of the Carlists.

At San Sebastian General Grant was received by Emilio Castelar, ex-President of the Spanish Republic. To the well-known statesman and journalist, General Grant was exceedingly cordial. He concluded his remarks by saying: "Believe me, sir, the name of Castelar is especially honored in America." Here, as at Irun, were gathered many people to see General Grant, and he was presented to the town officials and the distinguished citizens. The contracted harbor reflected the green of the tree-covered hills that encircle it so nearly, and beyond the cone-like isle at its mouth was the sheen of the noonday sun on the Bay of Biscay.

Leaving this place the road leads southward towards Tolosa and Vergara. At both of these stations a squad of soldiers was stationed. The usual military guard had been doubled in honor of the American General. After winding about the hills beyond the station of Tolosa the train suddenly leaves the defiles behind and smoothly skirts the side of a great hill, giving the occupants of the carriages a grand view to the southward. Near at hand are seen the

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