CHAPTER XXII.

EN ROUTE FOR COPENHAGEN FOURTH OF JULY AT HAMBURG - GENERAL GRANT'S ORATION

EST

-THE BLACK FOR

-COPENHAGEN REACHED AT GOTHENBURG, SWEDEN-CHRISTIANIA-WELCOME BY THE KING- -ARRIVAL AT STOCKHOLM-ST. PETERSBURG-AN INTERVIEW WITH THE CZAR-GRAND DINNER AND REVIEW ON TO MOSCOW- -WARSAW—VIENNA-DINING WITH THE EMPEROR-RETURN TO PARIS-OFF FOR SPAIN.

Leaving Berlin, General Grant and his party set out for Copenhagen by the way of Hamburg. The latter place was reached on July 2d. A correspondent writing from this place says: There were strong temptations to remain in Berlin, especially as Mr. Taylor seemed to make each hour of the stay more and more pleasant. But rumors were in the air of an unusual Fourth of July celebration, in which all the Americans were to take part, and the eagle was to have a glorious time screaming. I am afraid these rumors, and the apprehension on the General's part that he would be called upon to do his part in the glorification of our venerable bird, alarmed him, and he fled, to the disappointment of the orators, who were in severe training to entertain their guest. Hamburg was reached in due season, and the General dined quietly with the Consul, Mr. J. M. Wilson. There was the usual evening tramp about the city, and next morning a deputation of the Hamburg Senate called and welcomed the General. You know Hamburg, as one of the members of the old Hanseatic Confederation, is a free city, and governed by a Senate and a Burgomaster. Although a part of the mod

ern machine of the German Empire, it retains its municipal privileges, being, to all intents and purposes, a republic, as it has been for a thousand years. Hamburg is a very beautiful city, in some respects one of the most beau

tiful and best governed in Europe. There did not seem to be a stone out of place or a tree untrimmed. There was a quaint blending of the medieval with the modern, which you find nowhere else in so marked a degree. You pass from rows of streets with the old-fashioned red brick, the overhanging eaves, and comfortable, clumsy gables which you see in the pictures of Teniers, at once into 10ws of streets that remind you of Chicago. There was a large fire some time since which scooped out an important frag

ment of the city, and it is in this fragment that you find the resemblance to Chicago. The General admired Hamburg, and was especially pleased with its order and perfection. Nothing interfered with the trip but the rain. If, however, you would enjoy God's gifts on this north-western coast of Europe, you must take them with rain.

Hamburg gave itself up to the entertainment of the General with hearty good-will. On the morning after his arrival, he was taken by the Senators on board a small steamer, and made a tour of the docks and basins, and a small run into the Elbe. The ships had their bunting up in the friendliest manner, some English and American ships showing all their flags. The trip was pleasant, notwithstanding the rain, which came and went like the temper of a capricious woman. In the evening there was a dinner given by the Senate, at the Zoological Gardens, the Burgomaster, Dr. Kirchenssauer, in the chair. Among the Senators present were Senators Oswald, Stamer, Moring, and Hertze. The Burgomaster proposed the General's health in the kindest terms, speaking of the honor Hamburg received from his visit. The next day, being the Fourth of July, the General went down to the shooting-box of James R. McDonald, the Vice-Consul, and spent the afternoon walking about the woods and talking' with American friends. Then came a dinner at a country hotel near by, about thirty Americans, ladies and gentlemen, present, and the Consul presiding. Mr. Wilson proposed the General's health as "the man who had saved the country." This toast was drank with cheers. The General made a speech in answer, to the following effect :

"MR. CONSUL AND FRIENDS.-I am much obliged to you for the kind manner in which you drink my health. I share with you in all the pleasure and gratitude which Americans so far from home should feel on this anniversary. But I must dissent

from one remark of our Consul, to the effect that I saved the country during the recent war. If our country could be saved or ruined by the efforts of any one man, we should not have a country, and we should not be now celebrating our Fourth of July. There are many men who would have done far better than I did under the circumstances in which I found myself during the war. If I had never held command; if I had fallen; if all our generais had fallen, there were ten thousand behind us who would have done our work just as well, who would have followed the contest to the end, and never surrendered the Union. Therefore, it is a mistake, and a reflection upon the people, to attribute to me, or to any number of us who held high commands, the salvation of the Union. We did our work as well as we could, and so did hundreds of thousands of others. We deserve no credit for it, for we should have been unworthy of our country and of the American name if we had not made every sacrifice to save the Union. What saved the Union was the coming forward of the young men of the nation. They came from their homes and fields, as they did in the time of the Revolution, giving everything to the country. To their devotion we owe the salvation of the Union. The humblest soldier who carried a musket is entitled to as much credit for the results of the war as those who were in command. So long as our young men are animated by this spirit there will be no fear for the Union."

This was the essential speech at the dinner, which I have reported from memory as faithfully as possible. Among those present for the company was almost entirely American-were J. M. Wilson, the Consul; J. R. MacDonald, the Vice-Consul; Mr. Glick, Mr. and Mrs. Danna, Mr. and Mrs. Warburg, Mr. and Mrs. Slattery, Mr. and Mrs. Politz, Miss Politz, Miss Gibson, and Miss Wolff. There was some dancing in a quiet way, and as we rode to the railway-station there were fireworks in the woods at various points. The next day the General lunched at the house of Baron von Ohlendorf, one of the merchant princes. The house of the Baron is a palace,

and the entertainment was regal. The company embraced the Prussian Minister to Hamburg, the commander of the Prussian garrison, Senators Godefroy, Moring, and others. The company was mainly composed of merchant princes. The Consul told me how many millions there were around the table, but I have forgotten, and will not dare to guess. Hamburg, however, has reason to be proud of these masters of her prosperity. The General was carried off to the races; he went so reluctantly that he had almost to be carried. But the Hamburgers were quite bent on his seeing their track, and they had been so kind to him that he could not refuse. It rained, however, and, after seeing one spin around the turf, the General returned to his hotel. Among other incidents of the visit was the appearance of a Prussian military band in front of the General's hotel window, at eight o'clock on the morning of the Fourth, and a serenade. I send you the programme, so that if any of your readers come to Hamburg they may know what to expect in the way of music:

1. "Hail Columbia."

2. Overture, 2. d. op. "Die Stümme von Portici," von Auber. 3. Chor der Biester a. d. op. "Die Zauberflöte," von Mozart. 4. Entre act und Brautchor a. d. oper. "Lohengrin,"

von Wagner.

As they passed along, the Black Forest was seen in the distance. The Black Forest covers an area of about twelve hundred square miles, being at the base of a triangle some forty miles broad. Although boasting many snow-clad peaks, it is not in its mountains, but rather in its valleys, that the grand charm of the district must be sought. Im "their romantic seclusion, in their wild and lonely grandeur, in their pastoral richness, the trout-stream watered valleys of the Black Forest present as beautiful and varied gems of nature as the world, or at least Europe, can offer."