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manner, in passing near a village, or any large assembly of people. Once, as they passed my tents, their slender figures, long white garments, water-pots, and minstrelsy, combined with the noble laurel-like shade of the mangoe trees, reminded me forcibly of the scene so well represented in Milman's Martyr of Antioch, where the damsels are going to the wood in the cool of the day, singing their hymns to Apollo. The male pilgrims, and those who carry water, call out, in a deep tone, "Mahadeo Bol! Bol! Bol!" in which I observed my Hindoo servants and bearers never failed to join them.

My new acquaintance, the Tusseldar, called again in the evening to ask if he could do any thing more for me, and to say he would see me again at the next station. I had in the meantime happened to find his pedigree and family history in Hamilton's Gazetteer, and pleased him much, I believe, by asking him which of the six sons of Ali Mohammed Khan he was descended from? He said, "Nawab Ali Khan;" and added that his own name was Mohammed Kasin Ali Khan. The father and founder of this family, Ali Mohammed Khan, was a peasant boy, saved from a burning village, about the year 1720, by Daood Khan, an Afghan, or Patan freebooter, who came into this country about that time, and after a long course of robbery and rebellion at length became its sovereign. He adopted the foundling to the prejudice of his own children, and, on his decease, Ali Mohammed succeeded to the throne, and held it to his death. His six sons, as usual in such cases, quarrelled and fought. Nawab Ali Khan, the fourth, was for some time the most successful; but all were at length overthrown by another chieftain, said to be of better family, Rehmut Khan. He, in his turn, was killed in battle by the English and men of Oude; and thus ended the sovereignty of Rohilcund. Of such strange materials were those dynasties chiefly composed, on whose ruins the British empire has been erected, and so easily did "the sabre's adventurous law" make and mar monarchs in the olden times of Hindostan.

A miserable little sickly man, wrapped in a ragged blanket asked charity, saying he was going with his wife and two children the pilgrimage to Mecca! What a journey for such a person! I advised him to return home, and serve God in his own land, adding that He was every where, and might be worshipped in India as well as by the side of a black stone in Hejaz. He smiled in a melancholy way, as if he were partly of the same opinion, but said he had a vow. home, indeed, he perhaps, to judge from his appearance, left nothing but beggary. I do not think that this pilgrimage is

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JOURNEY TO FURREEDPOOR.

very popular with the Indian Mussulmans. This is only the fourth person whom I have met with who appeared to have made it, or to be engaged in it; and yet the title of Hajee, which such persons assume, would, apparently, point them out to notice.

November 13.-From Futtehgunge to Furreedpoor is se ven coss, through a country equally well cultivated, and rather prettier, as being more woody, than that which I saw yesterday. Still, however, it is as flat as a carpet. The road is very good, and here I will allow a gig might travel well, and be a convenience, but it would have made a poor figure in the plashy country on the other side of Lucknow, and have not been very serviceable in any part of the King of Oude's territories. We encamped in a smaller grove of mangoe trees than the four or five last had been, but the trees themselves were very noble. The chief cultivation round us was cotton. The morning was positively cold, and the whole scene, with the exercise of the march, the picturesque groups of men and animals round me,-the bracing air, the singing of birds, the light mist hanging on the trees, and the glistening dew, had something at once so Oriental and so English, I have seldom found any thing better adapted to raise a man's animal spirits, and put him in good temper with himself and all the world. How I wish those I love were with me! How much my wife would enjoy this sort of life,-its exercise, its cleanliness and purity; its constant occupation, and at the same time its comparative freedom from form, care, and vexation! At the same time a man who is curious in his eating, had better not come here. Lamb and kid, (and we get no other flesh,) most people would soon tire of. The only fowls which are attainable are as tough and lean as can be desired; and the milk and butter are generally seasoned with the never failing condiments of Hindostan, smoke and soot. The milk would be very good if the people would only milk the cow into one of our vessels instead of their own; but this they generally refuse to do, and refuse with much greater pertinacity than those who live near the river. These, however, are matters to which it is not difficult to become reconciled; and all the more serious points of warmth, shade, cleanliness, air, and water, are at this season no where enjoyed better than in the spacious and well-contrived tents, the ample means of transport, the fine climate, and fertile regions of Northern Hindostan. Another time, by God's blessing, I will not be alone in this Eden; yet I confess there are very few people whom I greatly wish to have as associates in such a journey. It is only a wife, or a friend so intimate as to be

JOURNEY TO BAREILLY.

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quite another self, whom one is really anxious to be with one while travelling through a new country.

The Tusseldar called again this afternoon, and brought three more lambs or goats, I am not sure which, for both are called "buckra" here. I, however, thought it too bad to take the firstlings of his flock in this unmerciful manner, and declined them as civilly as I could, giving him at the same time a certificate of my satisfaction with his attentions, with my great seal appended,-a distinction of which I have discovered the value in native eyes, and mean only to give it to gentlefolks. He took his leave with a profusion of compliments, having got a “neknamee," or character, and kept his mutton.

The evening was beautiful, and I walked round the village, which, however, had nothing in it worth seeing.

November 14.-From Furreed poor to Bareilly is a distance of eight short coss, not much more than twelve miles, but to the cantonment, in the neighbourhood of which my tent was pitched, it is a mile and a half less. Mr. Hawkins, the senior judge of circuit, had offered the use of a large room in a house of his in the immediate neighbourhood of my encampment, for divine service; and I had the pleasure of finding a numerous congregation of the civil and military officers, with their families, as well as a good many Christians of humbler rank, chiefly musicians attached to the regiments stationed here, with their wives. I had, I think, sixteen communicants.

Bareilly is a poor ruinous town, in a pleasant and wellwooded, but still a very flat country. I am told, that when the weather is clear (it is now hazy) the Himalaya mountains are seen very distinctly, and form a noble termination to the landscape. Nothing, however, of the kind is now to be seen, though the distance is barely sixty miles. The nights and mornings are become really very cold, and in my tent I find a blanket, a quilt, and my large cloak, no more than enough to keep me comfortable.

November 15.-I breakfasted and dined to day at General Vanrenen's, and met a very large family party. They are extremely hospitable, kind-mannered, and simple-hearted people, and the General has seen more of different parts of India than most men whom I have met. After breakfast, I had a number of children brought to be baptized, three couples to be married, and one young woman, a native, but engaged to be married to an English soldier, who was a candidate for baptism. She spoke English a little, though imperfectly, and to my surprise was not much better acquainted with Hindoostanee, being a native of Madras. Her intended husband, however, a very respectable young man, had eviVOL. I.

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dently taken much pains to instruct her in her new belief She repeated the substance of the Lord's prayer and Creed very well in English, and afterwards explained, in answer to my questions, the different clauses intelligibly in Hindoostanee. In Telinga, her husband assured me, she was very perfect in both. I explained to her myself, as far as our means of communication went, and got him to explain to her more fully, the obligations which she was to take on herself in baptism and marriage. For the former she seemed very anxious; and to judge from her extreme seriousness during the ceremony, and the trembling earnestness with which, both in English and Hindoostanee, she made the promises, I trust it was not performed in vain. This day I baptized and married her. Her name was Cudjee, but her husband wished that she should now be called Susan. These ceremonies all took place at General Vanrenen's house, he having good-naturedly appointed the people to meet me there, as being more roomy than my tent, and more centrically situated with reference to those who were likely to attend.

I heard, in the course of conversation, many interesting particulars respecting the province of Rohilcund. Mr. Hawkins has been here many years, and holds, to all intents and purposes,. the situation of civil governor: he has been in India forty-two years, during which time he has never returned home, and is evidently an extremely useful man in his present situation. I have not for a long time met with any one so interesting; how I wish she for whom I write this, may one day see him! The account which he gives of the Rohillas is not very flattering. They are a clever and animated race of people, but devoid of principle, false and ferocious. Crimes are very numerous, both of fraud and violence, and perjury almost universal. When he first came here, the English were excessively disliked, and very few would so much as salam to either General or Magistrate; at present they are brought into better order, and, probably, better reconciled to a government, under which their condition, so far as tranquillity and the impartial administration of justice extend, has been greatly improved, and their land, from a mere desert, to which the tyranny of Oude had reduced it, restored to its former state of cultivation and richness. But the country is burdened with a crowd of lazy, profligate, self-called suwarrs, who, though many of them are not worth a rupee, conceive it derogatory to their gentility and Patan blood to apply themselves to any honest industry, and obtain for the most part a precarious livelihood by spunging on the industrious tradesmen and farmers, on whom they levy a sort of "black-mail,” or as hangers-on to the few noble and wealthy families yet re

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maining in the province. Of these men, who have no visible means of maintenance at all, and no visible occupation except that of lounging up and down with their swords and shields like the ancient Highlanders, whom in many respects they much resemble, the number is rated at, perhaps, taking all Rohilcund together, not fewer than 100,000; all these men have every thing to gain by a change of government, and both Mr. Hawkins and General Vanrenen said they hardly knew what it was that kept them down, considering the extremely inadequate force at present in these provinces. Twice, indeed, since the English have been in possession, their tenure of the country has appeared exceedingly precarious; and once when Jeswunt Row Holcar advanced to the fords of the Ganges, the whole European population of Bareilly were compelled to take refuge within the walls of the jails, which they were prepared to defend to the last extremity.

The natural remedy for this state of things would be to find a vent for a part of this superabundant population, by raising fencible regiments, who, as they are really faithful to those whose salt they eat, would sufficiently keep their countrymen in order, and materially relieve the regular troops in some of their most unpleasant duties. They should be cavalry, on something like the footing of our. yeomanry corps; they should be commanded by the judges and magistrates, with the aid of an adjutant and major from the regular army; and should be officered, so far as captains and Lieutenants, by the most respectable of the native gentry. Such a measure I am the more convinced, the more I see of upper India, would very greatly contribute to the, efficiency of the police, and the popularity and permanency of the Company's Government.

A strong impression has lately prevailed in all these provinces, arising I cannot learn how, that the English were preparing to evacuate the country. The people with whom Mr. Shore has had to deal, have pleaded this to justify their rebellion, or, at least, to account for their temerity.* Every

The following circumstance is here alluded to:-A strong body of freebooters having committed various devastations in the neighbourhood of Saharunpoor, a detachment under the command of Captain Young was sent against them, which was accompanied by the honourable F. J. Shore, who held a civil employment in that district, with his suwarrs. The banditti fled into the fort of Koonga, a place of considerable strength, which could only be entered by breaching; at the suggestion of Mr. Shore a tree was formed into a battering ram, and directed against the gate, he himself manning the foremost rope. When the breach was sufficiently opened, Captain Young, Mr. Shore, and another officer entered, followed

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