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afforded by a few north-westers, accompanied by heavy showers, thunder, and lightning. These storms were some of them

very awful at the time, but as they increased in frequency their fury abated, and recently the weather has not been unlike a close damp rainy autumn in England. The change these storms produced, both on the animal and vegetable creation, is great. The grass and trees, which always indeed retained a verdure far beyond what I could have expected, have assumed a richer luxuriance. A fresh crop of flowers has appeared on many of the trees and shrubs, the mangoes and other fruits have increased to treble and quadruple the bulk which the first specimens exhibited, the starved cattle are seen every where greedily devouring the young grass, which young as it is, is already up to their knees; the gigantic cranes, most of whom disappeared during the drought, have winged their way back from the Sunderbunds (their summer retreats;) the white and red paddy birds are fluttering all over the Meidân; and the gardens, fields, and ditches (and the ground floors of some of the houses too) swarm with the largest and noisiest frogs I ever saw or heard. One of these frogs ) saw, about as large, I think, as a good sized gosling, and very beautiful, being green speckled with black, and almost transparent. Some of the lizards (also green) are very beautiful, but they are less abundant now. than they were during the hot season. I have as yet seen in Calcutta neither snake, scorpion, nor centipede, nor any insect more formidable than a long thin starveling sort of hornet, or rather wasp, which has now disappeared. Of the fruits which this season offers, the finest are leeches, and mangoes, the first is really very fine, being a sort of plum, with the flavour of a Frontignac grape. The second is a noble fruit in point of size, being as large as a man's two fists; its flavour is not unlike an apricot, more or less smeared with turpentine. It would not, I think, be popular in England, but in India it may pass for very good, particularly when the terebinthian flavour does not predominate. When not quite ripe it makes an excellent tart.

June 14.- I have had a very interesting and awful ceremony to perform in the ordination of Christian David, a native of Malabar, and pupil of Swartz, who has been for many years a Catechist in the employ of the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge in Ceylon, and now came to me, recommended by Archdeacon 'Twistleton, and qualified with the title of a Colonial Chaplaincy by Sir Edward Barnes, the Governor of the island. "Dayid passed an exceeding good examination, and gave much satisfaction to every body by his modesty, good sense, and good manners. He was ordained Deacon on

ORDINATION OF CHRISTIAN DAVID.

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Holy Thursday, on which day also. I held my Visitation, and had a good attendance of clergy, and a numerous audience, notwithstanding the early hour at which it was celebrated. On Trinity Sunday I had the 'satisfaction (though by me it was felt at the same time, in some degree, à terrible responsibility) of ordaining him Priest. God grant that his ministration may be blessed to his own salvation, and that of many others! He was lodged during his residence in Bengal in the Bishop's college, and received much attention and kindness from Lady Amherst, and many others. He preached on Thursday evening at the old Church, and it was proposed to publish his sermon; but this I thought it best to discourage.

CHAPTER V.

CALCUTTA TO SINNIBASHL.

DEPARTURE-PINNACE-BENGALEE BOAT-HINDO0 FANATICS

NORTH-WESTER-CHINSURA-RANAGHAT-SINNIBASHI-RUINS-RAJA OMICHUND-DURBAR-DECOITS.

JUNE 15.-This morning I left Calcutta for my Visitation through the Upper Provinces. This excursion, to which both my wife and I had long looked forwards with delightful anticipations, will now become a dreary banishment to me, as the state of her own health, and the circumstances of her having an infant, are considered as insuperable obstacles to her undertaking such a journey. Accompanied by my domestic chaplain, Mr. Stowe, I embarked on board a fine 16 oared pinnace for Dacca, which was to be the first station on my Visitation. After about two hours' squabbling with the owner and navigators of the vessel, we got under weigh, with a fine south breeze and the flood-tide. Archdeacon Corrie, with his wife and children, accompanied us in a budgerow, and we had two smaller boats, one for cooking, the other for our bag. gage. We advanced to Barrackpoor that night, and in order to make up for lost time, I urged the boatmen forwards a good while after it was dark, the river being familiar to us all. The lights in Serampoor and Barrackpoor, the tall massive shadows of the Government House, and of two state barges in the river, which by this uncertain light appeared like vessels of considerable importance, made our anchoring place very beautiful. Soon after we were made snug for the night, a strong storm of rain and wind came on. Our course during

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this day was pretty steadily north-north-west by quarter west; the distance 24 miles.

June 16.-We weighed anchor about half-past four, and arrived at Chandernagore by half-past nine. We there paid the Governor, Mons. Pelissier, a visit, who pressed us to stay dinner with him, which invitation we accepted. The Governor's house has been much beautified since I was here before, and now has really a very handsome appearance. Between Barrackpoor and Chandernagore are some large and handsome pagodas, which are, however, excelled in beauty by one of a smaller size, under a noble grove of tall trees.

A Bengalee boat is the simplest and rudest of all possible structures. It is decked over, throughout its whole length, with bamboo; and on this is erected a low light fabric of bamboo and straw, exactly like a small cottage without a chimney. This is the cabin, baggage room, &c.; here the passengers sit and sleep, and here, if it be intended for a cooking boat, are one or two small ranges of brick-work like English hot-hearths, but not rising more than a few inches above the deck, with small, round sugar-loaf holes, like those in a lime-kiln, adapted for dressing victuals with charcoal. As the roof of this apartment is by far too fragile for men to stand.or sit on, and as the apartment itself takes up nearly two-thirds of the vessel, upright bamboos are fixed by its side, which support a kind of grating of the same material, immediately above the roof, on which, at the height probably of six or eight feet above the surface of the water, the boatmen sit or stand to work the vessel. They have, for oars, long bamboos, with circular boards at the end; a longer one of the same sort to steer with; a long rough bamboo for a mast, and one, or sometimes two sails, of a square form, (or rather broader above than below,) of very coarse and flimsy canvass. Nothing can seem more clumsy or dangerous than these boats. Dangerous I believe they are, but with a fair wind they sail over the water merrily. The breeze this morning carried us along at a good rate, yet our English-rigged brig could do no more than keep up with the cooking boat.

There is a large ruined building a few miles to the south of Chandernagore, which was the country house of the Governor, during the golden days of that settlement, and of the French influence in this part of India. It was suffered to fall to decay when Chandernagore was seized by us; but when Mr. Corrie came to India, was, though abandoned, still entire, and very magnificent, with a noble stair-case, painted ceilings, &c.; and altogether, in his opinion, the tinest building of the kind in this country. It has at present a very melancholy aspect, and in some degree reminded

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me of Moreton-Corbet,* having, like that, the remains of Grecian pillars and ornaments, with a high carved pediment. In beauty of decoration, however, it falls far short of Moreton-Corbet, in its present condition. This is the only visible sign of declining prosperity in this part of the country. The town of Chandernagore itself, though small, is neat, and even handsome. It has little Catholic church, and some very tolerable streets, with respectable dwelling-houses. An appearance of neatness and comfort is exhibited by the native villages; and, as an Indian generally lays out some of his superfluous wealth in building or adding to a pagoda, it is a strong mark of progressive and rapid improvement to say, as Mr. Corrie did to-day, that all the large pagodas between “ Calcutta and this place have been founded, or rebuilt, in his memory." This, however, I must confess, does not tell much for the inclination of the Hindoos to receive a new religion. Indeed, except in our schools, I see no appearance of it. The austerities and idolatries exercised by them, strike me as much, or I think more, the more I see of them. A few days since I saw a tall, large, elderly man, nearly naked, walking with three or four others, who suddenly knelt down one after the other, and catching hold of his foot kissed it repeatedly. The man stood with much gravity to allow them to do so, but said nothing. He had the string ("* peeta”) of a Brahmin. Another man passed us on Sunday morning last, hopping on one foot. He was a devotee who had made a vow never to use the other, which was now contracted, and shrunk close up to his hams. Lately, too, I saw a man who held his hands always above his head, and had thus lost the power of bringing them down to his sides. In general, however, I must own that these spectacles are not so common, at least so far as I can yet judge, as, before I came to India, I expected to find them.

Chandernagore was taken by Lord Clive and Admiral Watson, in 1757, after a gallant and bloody defence: and it is worth recording, as a proof of the alterations which have taken place in this branch of the Ganges, that Watson brought up a 74 gun ship to batter it. It was afterwards restored to the French, who lost it again during the war of the Revolution, but who have now received some favours from the Eng. lish Government, at which, when compared with the severity shown towards the colonists of Serampoor, the latter think they have reason to repine.

We spent a very pleasant evening with Mons. Pelisser. Our party consisted of his wife, daughter, and son, the phy

* A ruinous building in Shropshire.-.-ED.

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sician and secretary of the factory, and an Abbe, whom I supposed to be the chaplain. The little church, which I had seen from the beach, belongs to the “ Thibet Mission,” a branch of the Society “propropagande fide," at Rome, which seems to extend its cares all over India, which it supplies for the most part with Italian priests, though my old visiter, the Rey. Jacob Mecazenas, the Georgian monk, is one of its agents. They have a bishop somewhere near Agra, an Italian, and the priests (for I understood there were more than one at Chandernagore) are of this nation also. We returned to our pinnace soon after ten.

June 17.--About two o'clock this morning we had a northwester, accompanied with violent thunder and lightning. It lasted about two hours, and was so severe,

could not but feel thankful that it had not overtaken us the night before, while we were under sail." I have never heard louder thunder, or seen so vivid and formidable lightning. Happily, our attendant boats were close in shore, under the shel. ter of the high bank, while our own mariners did their work exceedingly well and quietly, letting go a second anchor, and veering out as much cable as they had on board. After having done all that under such circumstances was to be done, they gave

of 66 Allah hu Allah!” and went to prayers, a circumstance which, unaccompanied as it was by any marks of confusion or trepidation, gave me a very favourable impression of them, though I afterwards recollected that it was in fact pretty near the hour when that call is uttered from the mosque, which used to thrill me when I heard it in the Crimea, “Prayer is better than sleep! prayer is better than sleep!” Our boat, with this length of cable, rode well and easily, but we had some troublesome work in closing the cabin windows, as our rooms, and all they contained, were getting a complete cold bath. Indeed, there really ran something like a sea in the channel of the river where we now lay. What passed gave me confidence in the vessel and her crew. The latter are numerous, sixteen rowers, four men accustomed to the management of the sails, and the Serang, all Mussulmans, and natives of Dacca, and its vicinity. They are wild and odd-looking people, lightlimbed, and lean, and very black, but strong and muscular, and all young men, with a fiercer eye and far less civil manner than the Hindoos of Calcutta, to which expression of character their dress contributes, (when they wear any, which is the case this cool morning,) being old uniform jackets of the infantry and artillery, with red caps and dirty turbans wrapped round them. As they sat round the fire this morning, cooking their victuals for breakfast, they might

the cry

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