alligators shewed themselves to-day, but at some distance; they are evidently shy, but fish seem extremely abundant in this part of the river. While I was writing the above, another very fine rooh was brought on board, the fishermen swimming with it from the land; and being content to dispose of it for four anas, I bought this too for the Mussulman dandees, so that every person on board had fish to-day, and the cost did not exceed half-acrown, no great sum to make 40 people happy for the afternoon.

The east wind blew pleasantly all the afternoon, bringing up a good many clouds, but no actual rain. It helped us across some very bad passes of the stream, where without its aid, we might have been detained many hours, or even days. A little after five o'clock we arrived at a village called Diha, where there is a large nullah, which, when navigable, affords the easiest and most direct passage to Allahabad. At present the water was too shallow, and we went by the main stream. Mohammed wanted to stop here, but as we had wind and day-light still, I urged him to proceed a little further and to moor on the eastern bank, along which I apprehended the great Dâk-road to run, and designed to push on in my palanquin to Allahabad that night. Unfortunately the wind soon grew fainter, and the stream being very strong, it was quite dark before we reached the eastern shore. I determined on going myself to ascertain if there was a village near, both as liking to explore, and under the idea that by seeing the

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Thannadar, could any such be found, I should judge better for myself as to the possibility or expediency of engaging bearers, either immediately or for the next morning. I accordingly set out, having a dandee with a lantern, Abdullah and one of the Tindals, with each a spear, a defence which the former assured me might not be superfluous, and would at all events make me respected. I had only my great stick as usual, but that is a tolerably large one, and well used, would in this country be no inconsiderable weapon. I had another fruitless ramble through very high corn, some of it literally above my head, and over a broad extent of fallow and pasture, but found no village. Some lights were visible, but they were extinguished as my party drew near, and it was not easy to discover whence they proceeded. I had the caution to mark the position of the stars before I set out, or we should have had much trouble to find our way back again. At length we stumbled on a herdsman's shed, where we found two men, whom the sight of our spears put, not without some cause, in great alarm, and from whom we could get little for some time but protestations that they were very poor, and entreaties not to hurt them. They had put out their fire, they said, because it was a lonely place, and seeing our light, and hearing our voices, they were afraid; they spoke of the nearest village as a coss and a half distant, and displayed great reluctance to undertake to guide us there. There was no Thanna, they said, nearer than two coss. They spoke not Oordoo, but what Abdullah said

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was the true Hindoo. Milk they called not "doodh," but "gaorus," "cow-dew," from " russ," "ros." Rain they called "russ" simply. They told us of a good path through the Indian corn to the river, in following which we came to another shed of the same sort, where a man with his wife and children were cooking their supper. The man called to us for heaven's sake not to come near him, for he was a Brahmin, and our approach would oblige him to fling away his mess. In answer to my desire that he would sell some milk, he said he could sell us none, but if I chose to take a small jug which stood on one side, I might. "Nay," said I, “I take nothing without paying." "I am a Brahmin," he replied, "and dare not sell milk, but I give it to you voluntarily." Well, Brahmin," I answered, "take up the jug and bring it to the boat, and I will give you a present, not for the milk, but voluntarily, and because you are a good fellow." He immediately started up with exceeding good-will, and went with us, talking all the way, but in a dialect which I comprehended but little. I only understood that he boasted of his own courage in not being afraid of us when we came up; most people would have been so, he said, but he had a brother who was a Sepoy, and he had been to see him with his regiment at Sultanpoor, and therefore he was not afraid when he saw a Sahib at the head of the party. He said he was one of the village watchmen, and that it was less degrading for a Brahmin to be thus employed, than as a cultivator, which seems to be by no means an usual occupation for

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4.27

them in this part of India, though it is often seen in other districts. I returned by a circuitous but level path along the beach, which was sand, and so precisely as if the tide had just left it, I could have fancied myself in one of my evening walks by the sea-side in England, had not the dark naked limbs, and the weapons of my companions, reminded me that I was in a far distant land. I was a good deal disappointed at the result of this expedition, since I had been anxious to reach Allahabad in time to have service on the following day (Sunday). That, however, was now apparently impossible, and I was obliged to be content with my walk, and with the good appetite which it procured me.

The clouds had been gradually rising from the eastward all day, but no rain fell where I was, though some seemed to fall in the neighbourhood. The night was cool and pleasant. I find all the people here, particularly the Mussulmans, pronounce Allahabad, "Illahabaz." Allah is certainly very often pronounced Ullah or Illah, but why "Abad," the Persian word for abode, should be altered, I do not know.

September 19.-This morning we were gratified by a light sprinkling of rain, I trust the forerunner of more. The fine easterly wind, however, failed, and the poor men had a hard, though not a long day's tow to Allahabad, where I arrived about two in the afternoon. As it is here that my journey by water terminates, I shall set down some information concerning Benares, which I have learned since my leaving it.

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RETROSPECT OF BENARES.

The city of Benares is certainly the richest, as well as, probably, the most populous in India; it is also the best governed in respect to its police, which is carried on by a sort of national guard, the chuprassies, of whom I have made frequent mention, chosen by the inhabitants themselves, and merely approved of by the magistrates. There are about 500 of these in the city, which is divided into 60 wards, with a gate to each which is shut at night, and guarded by one of these people. In consequence, notwithstanding the vast population, the crowds of beggars and pilgrims of all countries, (of Maharatta pilgrims alone there are generally some 20,000 in the place, many of them armed, and of warlike and predatory habits) robberies and murders are very rare, while the guards being elected and paid by the respectable householders, have an interest in being civil, well-behaved, and attentive.

The army at Secrole is never called in except in cases of extremity, according to an excellent rule laid down and strictly observed by the government of Bengal, never to employ the military force except in affairs of real war, or where an active and numerous police is visibly incompetent to provide for the public safety. Only one instance of the military being called in has occurred at Benares during the last twenty-five years, which was on occasion of the quarrel I have already noticed between the Mussulmans and Hindoos. At that time Mr. Bird was magistrate, and he gave me a far more formidable idea of the tumult than I had