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might have fancied himself in the White House, judging by the severity of the 'free hand-shakings' he underwent. Not a man or a woman of those who gathered about spared him, nor did he flinch; but we dare say he reflected with pleasure that he was going to countries where hand-shaking is much less in fashion than here or at home.

"Last of all, the General dined, on the evening of the 4th, at the Legation of the United States. The occasion was not made a very ceremonious one; with a single exception, only Americans were put on guard that night. The exception was Monsignor Capel. The dinner was so far informal and private that I hardly know whether I am right in saying anything about

it.

Most of the distinguished Americans known to be passing. through London were invited, and were present. The list included Senator Conkling, Governor Hendricks, Judge Wallis of the United States District Court-the same who lately tried the Emma Mine case-the Rev. Phillips Brooks of Boston, and Chancellor Remsen of New Jersey. Mrs. Grant and Mrs. Pierrepont were the only ladies present. The evening was a very pleasant one, and was greatly enjoyed by all. As the General proposed starting next day for a short run to the Continent, the guests departed at an early hour, wishing the party a pleasant trip through Belgium and Switzerland."

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nent.

CHAPTER III.

A RUN TO THE CONTINENT.

HEN General Grant returned from his visit to Liverpool, he found the summer days in London, the season dead, and everybody out of town. He consequently postponed his visit to Scotland and the North of England until he had made a short trip on the ContiAs most of the countries visited by General Grant during this journey will be referred to in other parts of this book, I shall confine this chapter to noting the incidents of the journey, so far as they affected General Grant personally, and showed a disposition on the part of foreign countries and American citizens abroad to do him honor. To recount in detail every ceremony and festivity which awaited the General around the world would be to write five volumes instead of one. While I am tempted therefore to dwell upon beautiful scenery, social aspects, industry and commerce, and any feature of interest connected with the people through whose countries the General made his rapid journey, it must suffice for the present to note

the leading incidents of the trip, and leave mere speculations to the other parts of the volume.

On the 5th of July, the morning after our dinner at the American Minister's in London, General Grant, accompanied by Mrs. Grant, his son, and General Badeau, left London for Ostend. On arriving at Ostend, an officer of the King's household waited on the General, and tendered him the use of the royal car to Brussels. The municipal and military authorities met the General on landing with an address of congratulation. Mr. D. S. Merrill, the son of the American Minister at Brussels, waited upon the General, and next morning the party left Ostend for the Belgian capital. They stopped on the route at the ancient city of Ghent, where, accompanied by the American Consul, the principal bridges and places of interest of that quaint and venerable city were examined. On Friday evening at six o'clock they arrived at Brussels. The General paid a visit to the Minister, the Hon. A. P. Merrill, whose illness confined him to his house. At noon, they visited the Hotel de Ville, and were shown by the authorities all the interesting objects

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STREET SCENE IN GHENT,

in that memorable edifice. For generations past famous visitors to the Hotel de Ville have written their names in a book called the Livre d'Or. The General was requested to add his autograph to the scroll of illustrious men. In the evening the General dined with Mr. Sandford, formerly Minister at Brussels, and now resident in that city. On the 7th of July, King Leopold of Belgium, accompanied by Madame de Winkersloot,

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called on General Grant at his hotel, and had a long conversation with him. This visit was returned by General Grant at the palace on Monday evening, the 8th of July. On that evening the King gave a banquet in honor of his guest, and before the time for the guests assembling, the General and Mrs. Grant returned the call of his majesty, who entered into a long conversation. The King of Belgium is a man of more than ordinary gifts, and he impressed the Ex-President with his knowledge, industry, and his desire to strengthen his kingdom. The King seemed to be familiar with American affairs, and the subject that interested him most particularly, in his conversation with General Grant, was the establishment of lines of ships between Antwerp and American ports. The General was attended by the family of the Minister, Mr. Merrill, by General and Mrs. Sandford, General Badeau, and dignitaries' of the

court.

On Monday morning, July 9th, General Grant left Brussels for Cologne, having formed not only a high opinion of the character and intellect of the sovereign of Belgium, but a personal friendship. The journey to Cologne was performed in the King's railway carriage. On his arrival in the city, the civil and military governors called upon him. He visited the cathedral, crossed the bridges, and made the famous tour of the Rhine as far as Coblentz. On the 11th of July the General visited Wiesbaden, and on the 12th was in Frankfort, where the American citizens had arranged a fête and dinner. General Grant was met by a committee of ten gentlemen, and was escorted to the Hotel de Russie. At six o'clock in the evening there was a dinner in the famous Palmer Garten, at which a hundred and fifty gentlemen were present. Frankfort is closely

connected with the United States by commercial and financial ties, and some of her most distinguished citizens have made their fortunes out of the American trade. At the conclusion of the dinner, the General strolled round the gardens, making his way with difficulty through the multitude, which numbered as many as ten thousand, assembled there to see him. On Friday afternoon, July 13th, the General and his party drove to Homburg-les

Bains, where he was met by a committee of Americans, headed by Ex-Governor Ward of New Jersey. From Homburg he drove to Salburg to visit the famous Roman camp. This camp is the most extensive Roman memorial in Germany, and covers seven hundred acres. It is under the especial care of the Prussian Government, and while they were there Professor Jacobi and Captain Frischer, who have charge of it, opened one of the graves. It was found filled with the ashes of a Roman soldier who had been dead more than eighteen centuries. Of these burial mounds more than two hundred have been opened during the one hundred and fifty years since the camp was first discovered. In the evening there was a dinner at Homburg, during which the band of the Grand Duke of Darmstadt played. After dinner there was a walk in the glorious gardens of the Kursaal. The gardens were illuminated, and the effect of the light on the fountains was exceedingly beautiful. At eleven o'clock the General returned to Frankfort. The next day he visited some of the famous wine-cellars, and then attended a dinner at the Zoological Gardens. On Sunday morning, July 15th, the General left for Heidelberg.

From Heidelberg there was the usual tour to Baden and the Black Forest. The General and his party visited Lucerne, Interlaken, and Berne. The latter place was visited on the 24th. At all these points the people took special pains to do the General honor. On the 26th of July, General Grant and his party arrived in Geneva. The principal incident of his visit to Geneva was the laying of the corner stone of a new American Episcopal church on Friday, the 27th of July. This church is built on the Rue des Voirons, on a site given to the congregation by Mr. Barbay, an American citizen resident in Geneva. The style of architecture is simple and chaste. American colony assembled at the Hotel Beau Rivage and a procession was formed, at the head of which marched the American chaplain, the Rev. Mr. Parkes, accompanied by the Rev. Mr. Green, who assisted as the representative of the Rev. Mr. Jephson, the chaplain of the English church. Many of the inhabitants of the town were present. There were, likewise,

The

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