ancient temple, now consecrated as a Catholic Chapel. There is no doubt that these remains form only a part of the former temples of Jupiter Clitumnus, of which fanes, and of the adjacent scenery and fountain, Pliny the Younger, in the eighth Epistle of Book eighth, has given a particular, and inviting description. Indeed so delighted is he as to exclaim :-In summa nihil erit ex quo non capias voluptatem.* The following are some of the classical allusions to the streams of the Clitumnus. Quà formosa suo Clitumnus flumina luco Propertius, b. ii. Elegy 19. Where the Clitumnus still amid forests flows, And the milk white ox that drinks, yet whiter grows. Patulis Clitumnus in arvis Candentes gelido perfundit flumine tauros. Sil. Ital. b. ii. The snowy bulls that in its waters lave. Hinc albi, Clitumne, greges, et maxima taurus Second Georgics, v. 146. Here flows the Clitumnus, in whose sacred stream In fine, there is nothing with which you may not be pleased. The Apennines. 265 Foligno we have just reached, but find nothing particularly worthy of notice.-Anciently Fulginia, and Fulginium. Thursday. This day has been spent in traversing the Apennines; in exploring the wild, the grand, the never-satiating sublimity of Alpine scenery; and though some of the way was dreary, some again was equally romantic, more particularly when from the lofty height, or close upon the torrent, the eye looks down upon the fragrant dell below, the scattered hamlet, village spire, grove or streamlet, peeping from amid the olive and the vine, yet topped on all sides by the craggy, and aspiring giant mountain. After the pass of Col Fiorito comes the miserable village of Sieravale, separating Umbria from the March of Ancona, the road near which is intersected by the Via Flaminia. Leaving the poverty-stricken village of Valcimara, where we slept last night, and where compassion for penury lightened the purse equally with payments for superfluous luxury and parade, we set off long before day break on a frosty morning, and passing Tolentino, stopped some time at Macerata. It is long since I have seen a town so picturesque, so clean, and well preserved. It is situated on an eminence commanding on all sides the most varied, and luxuriant prospects; endless plains, and verdant hills, stretch beneath the eye, diversified by cultivation, and habitation. In the very further distance, we caught with delight the first glimpse of the expansive Adriatic, together with the Apennines, lifting their blanched summits to the skies, glittering with pinky hues as the sunbeams played upon their virgin snows; while for all the intermediate space there was luxuriancy of produce, This town, with its many gates, and military wall, are all enclosed by one noble road that winds around the entire city;-yet while, at this moment, I view the beauteous prospect varying at every point; and while I yet gaze once more upon the Apennines just passed:-Italy, and chiefly Rome, with all her grandeur, and all her recollections burst upon the mind; nor can I forbear a sigh to the memory of that country whose fame still remains, and ever shall remain, so long as the fleecy clouds canopy her soil! Loretto. 267 CHAPTER XXXVI. LORETTO-CHURCH-SANTA CASA-VIRGIN, AND JESUS HISTORY, AND VARIOUS FLIGHTS OF HOLY HOUSE-ITS RIMINI ROMAN LEON-CESENA-FAENZA-VIA EMILIA-IMOLA-BOLOGNA. SUNDAY, ten o'clock at night.-Arrived at Loretto this evening, though just too late to see the Church, and Santissima Casa. Our stroll enabled us to explore the town which is handsome, and the patrimony of the Virgin which is so rich; an immense tract of ground being pointed out to us, the produce or revenue of which, 80,000 crowns, is appropriated to the maintenance of the priests of this church, and which income, together with other foundations, legacies, bequests, &c. support a very complete, and dignified ecclesiastical establishment. . The revenue of the city being thus misapplied, the hapless inhabitants are proportionately poor; they are clamorous, and irresistibly importunate for the passing stranger to purchase their religious offerings, their other trifles or ornaments, rosaries, crucifixes, necklaces, beads, trinkets, &c. so that we 268 Church of Loretto. willingly gave to poverty what I would ever deny to superstition. The artless speech of a young, and pretty girl who had fixed her station in the saloon of our hotel, and of whom I was purchasing some trifle went to the heart. Ah! caro Signore, quando non vengono forestieri, non si mangia.* This maiden of fifteen told me that she had determined to take the vows, and to become a Nun. Monday. We were in the church by half past four this morning, finding abundance of devotees who had groped there in the dark, as well as ourselves, to fall on their knees in the Santissima Casa. Mass was even then performing, while a profusion of lamps illuminated this most sacred and splendid church, erected to consecrate and shield the Holy House. Advancing up the nave, we gazed, for a moment, with delight at the grandeur, and beauty of the richly sculptured marble case immediately enclosing the Santa Casa, which occupies the centre of the church, and is placed directly under the great dome; hence, heretics as we were, we ventured to enter the Holiest of Dwellings, being a poor and miserable habitation of stone, about twenty-nine feet long, thirteen feet broad, and thirteen and a half high. At the one extremity is the window through which the Angel Ah, dear Sir, when we have no visitors, we have no victuals. |