24 ARRIVAL AT CALCUTTA. every thing but complexion, which, indeed, was far less swarthy than that of the other natives whom we had hitherto seen, and were received by a long train of servants in cotton dresses and turbans; one of them with a long silver stick, and another with a short mace, answering to those of the Peons who had received us at the landing place. The house consisted of a lofty and well-proportioned hall, 40 feet by 25, a drawing-room of the same length, and six or seven rooms all on the same floor, one of which served as a Chapel, the lower story being chiefly occupied as offices or lobbies. All these rooms were very lofty, with many doors and windows on every side; the floors of plaister, covered with mats; the ceilings of bricks, plaistered also, flat, and supported by massive beams, which were visible from the rooms below, but being painted neatly had not at all a bad effect. Punkas, large frames of light wood covered with white cotton, and looking not unlike enormous fire-boards, hung from the ceilings of the principal apartments, to which cords were fastened, which were drawn backwards and forwards by one or more servants, so as to agitate and cool the air very agreeably. The walls were white and unadorned, except with a number of glass lamps filled with coco-nut oil, and the furniture, though sufficient for the climate, was scanty in comparison with that of an English house. The beds instead of curtains had mosquito nets; they were raised high from the ground and very hard, admirably adapted for a hot climate. ARRIVAL AT CALCUTTA. 25 I had then the ceremony to go through of being made acquainted with a considerable number of my Clergy. Among whom was my old schoolfellow at Whitchurch, Mr. Parsons, some years older than myself, whom I recollect when I was quite an urchin. Then all our new servants were paraded before us under their respective names of Chobdars, Sotaburdars', Hurkarus', Khânsaman, Abdar3, Sherabdar*, Khitmutgars, Sirdar Bearer, and Bearers, cum multis aliis. Of all these, however, the Sircar was the most conspicuous, a tall fine looking man, in a white muslin dress, speaking good English, and the editor of a Bengalee newspaper, who appeared with a large silken and embroidered purse full of silver coins, and presented it to us, in order that we might go through the form of receiving it, and replacing it in his hands. This, I then supposed, was a badge of his office, but I afterwards found that it was the relic of the ancient Eastern custom of never approaching a superior without a present, and that, in like manner, all the natives who visited me offered a "nuzzur," or offering, of a piece of gold or silver money. 'Men who carry silver sticks before people of rank; or Messengers, all bearing the generic appellation of Peons. 3 Water Cooler. • Butler. 3 Footmen. 7 Agent.-ED. ' Steward. CHAPTER II. Calcutta-Description of Calcutta: Cathedral: Environs: QuayChild-murder-Barrrackpoor: Menagerie-Female Orphan Asylum -Consecration of Churches-Nách-Free School-Botanical Garden -Bishop's College-Native Female Schools-Distress among Euro peans. OCTOBER 11.-In the morning as the day broke, (before which time is the usual hour of rising in India) we were much struck by the singular spectacle before us. Besides the usual apparatus of a place of arms, the walks, roofs, and ramparts, swarmed with gigantic birds, the "hurgila," from 66 hur," a bone, and " gilana," to swallow, larger than the largest turkey, and twice as tall as the heron, which in some respects they much resemble, except that they have a large blue and red pouch under the lower bill, in which we were told they keep such food as they cannot eat at the moment'. These birds share with the jackalls, who enter the fort through the drains, the post of 1 It has since been ascertained by dissection, that this pouch has no connection with the stomach,—but has a very small tube opening into the nostril,-through which it is supposed air is admitted to enable the bird to breathe when the orifice of the throat is closed by any large substance, which it attempts, for some time in vain, to swallow. At such time the pouch is in this way inflated with air, and respiration goes on unimpeded.-ED. DESCRIPTION OF CALCUTTA. 27 scavenger, but unlike them, instead of flying mankind and daylight, lounge about with perfect fearlessness all day long, and almost jostle us from our paths. We walked some time round the square, and were amused to see our little girl, walking with her nurse, in great delight at the animals round her, but rather encumbered with the number of servants who had attached themselves to her. For her especial service, a bearer, a khitmutgar, a hurkaru, and a cook, were appointed, and there were besides the two former, one of the silver sticks with her, and another bearer with a monstrous umbrella on a long bamboo pole, which he held over her head in the manner represented on Chinese screens ;-my wife soon reduced her nursery establishment,-but we afterwards found that it is the custom in Calcutta to go to great expense in the equipage of children. A lady told us she had seen a little boy of six years old, paraded in a poney phaeton and pair, with his "Ayah," or nurse, coachman, "Chattahburdar," or umbrella-bearer, a saees on each side, and another behind, leading a third poney, splendidly caparisoned, not in case the young Sahib should choose to ride, he was too young for that,but, as the saees himself expressed it, "for the look of the thing." This, however, rather belongs to old times, when as a gentleman assured me, he had himself heard at the dinner party of one of the Company's civil servants, a herald proclaiming aloud all the great man's titles; and when a palanquin with the silk brocade, and gilding which then 28 DESCRIPTION OF CALCUTTA. 1 adorned it, frequently cost 3000 rupees; at present the people are poorer and wiser. The approach to the city from the fort is striking; we crossed a large green plain, having on the left the Hooghly, with its forest of masts and sails seen through the stems of a double row of trees. On the right-hand is the district called Chowringhee, lately a mere scattered suburb, but now almost as closely built as, and very little less extensive than, Calcutta. In front was the esplanade, containing the Town Hall, the Governmenthouse, and many handsome private dwellings,the whole so like some parts of Petersburgh, that it was hardly possible for me to fancy myself any where else. No native dwellings are visible from this quarter, except one extensive but ruinous bazar, which occupies the angle where Calcutta and Chowringhee join. Behind the esplanade, however, are only Tank-square, and some other streets occupied by Europeans,-the Durrumtollah and Cossitollah are pretty equally divided between the different nations, and all the west of Calcutta is a vast town, composed of narrow erooked streets, brick bazars, bamboo huts, and here and there the immense convent-like mansion of some of the more wealthy" Baboos" (the name of the native Hindoo gentleman, answering to our Esquire) or Indian merchants and bankers. The Town-hall has no other merit than size, but the Government-house The highest price of an English built palanquin in the present day, is 300 rupees.-Ed. |