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danced before him. These armed dancers were preceded by four-andtwenty others, each also bearing a torch in his hands. The dances being finished, various offerings of food and drink were brought to my lord. Then my lord, with his companions, was honourably conducted, by the maids and matrons, even to his inn."

Thus, even the simple-hearted Bohemian could not resist the temptation to chronicle the merry-makings at Cologne, after he had satisfied his conscience by describing the relics of the saints; while the more carnalminded Gabriel Tetzel, having, according to his nature, first revelled in the recollection of the jousting and good cheer, was evidently a little pricked in conscience until he had set down in his commercial, summary way, the saintly items of the account.

It would be pleasant to accompany our travellers through every step of their progress, for the whole journey abounds in quaint and whimsical incidents, highly characteristic of the age; but we must hasten forward on the road to Brussels, where they found the Duke of Burgundy. There they saw excellent pictures, ascended the tower, and had a noble view of the city, and were most honourably entertained. The son of the old duke was absent on a military expedition; and our travellers were entreated to remain until his return. The arrival of the young prince was celebrated with equestrian and other chivalrous games, in which Johannes Zehroviensis took part with his usual success. Johannes seems to have been the sturdiest champion of all the company; whenever there was any jousting, tilting, wrestling, or real fighting to be done, Johannes was sure to have a hand in the business, and generally was more than a match for any antagonist that might be pitted against him. On this occasion, he was put up to wrestle with a brawny fellow, whose equal was not to be found in all the Duke of Burgundy's dominions. A great concourse of the most illustrious persons, including matrons and damsels, was drawn together to witness the spectacle. Johannes made little ado, and thrice threw his adversary as fast as he could get up. The spectators could scarcely believe their eyes; and the duke was so astonished, that he sent for Johannes, clad with the thorax only, just as he had wrestled, and scrutinized his whole body, feeling all his limbs, his feet, and his hands, and wondering greatly that his wrestler was beaten.

These were followed up by other sports and festivities. Of one of the feasts given by the Duke of Burgundy, Tetzel says, "It was the most costly and splendid that I have ever eaten in all my days." But it will not do thus to linger on the way. They passed through Ghent and Bruges, and at length arrived at Calais, on their way to England. Thence they put to sea, but were driven back and detained three days by a violent storm. Tetzel says, "One day God gave us the luck, that we had a good wind, and that the master of the ship was willing to proceed, and had already taken the ship out of port. Then my lord must needs sit in a small boat, and go out to the large vessel. Then there fell upon us the mightiest wind, that we were well-nigh drowned, and with great pains we got to the great ship. And had not Jan and Gabriel Tetzel done as they did, then would the Lord Leo, when he would go on board the great ship, have been drowned." However, they proceeded to cross the channel, and saw from a distance the "high, chalky hills" of England. "And the sea afflicted my lord and his companions so much, that they lay in the ship as if they were dead." They landed at Sandwich, and journeyed on to Canterbury, where they has

tened to pay their respects at the shrine of St. Thomas à Becket, "who," according to Ssassek, "was slain in that church, because he firmly resisted the unjust laws which King Henry enacted against the liberty of the Catholic church." The following are only a part of the relics which they saw in that once famous sanctuary:

"First, we saw the head-band of the blessed Virgin, a piece of Christ's garment, and three thorns from his crown; then we saw the vestment of St. Thomas, and his brain, and the blood of St. Thomas and of St. John, the Apostles. We saw also, the sword with which St. Thomas of Canterbury was beheaded; the hair of the mother of God, and a part of the sepulchre. There was also shown to us a part of the shoulder of the blessed Simeon, who bore Christ in his arms; the head of the blessed Lustrabena; one leg of St. George; a piece of the body and the bones of St. Lawrence; a leg of the bishop St. Romanus; the cup of St. Thomas, which he had been accustomed to use in administering the sacrament at Canterbury; a leg of the virgin Milda; a leg of the virgin Euduarda. We also saw a tooth of John the Baptist; a portion of the cross of the Apostles Peter and Andrew; a tooth and a finger of Stephen the Martyr; bones of the virgin Catherine, and oil from her sepulchre, which is said to flow even to this day; hair of the blessed Mary Magdalene; a tooth of St. Benedict; a finger of St. Urban; the lips of one of the infants slain by Herod; bones of the blessed Clement; bones of St. Vincent. Very many other things were also shown to us, which are not set down by me in this place."

This Canterbury pilgrimage occurred sixty-five years after the death of Chaucer. Having satisfied their pious curiosity, our wayfarers proceeded to London. Ssassek says, "Though the kingdom is of small extent, it is exceedingly populous, and abounds in beautiful women and maids, whom we gazed upon when my lord was invited by the king to dinner." The hints of manners, and sketches of national peculiarities which our travellers give in the portions of their journal occupied with England, are quite curious and entertaining. It was in the reign of the showy and pleasure-loving monarch, Edward the Fourth, and his second wife, the lady Elizabeth Woodville, that this visit was made. The first objects described by the Bohemian journalizer are, of course, the relics; but he found so many of them in London, that he fairly gave up the attempt to record them all, in despair. Among the customs of the people which attracted his particular attention, one was, that, on the arrival of a distinguished stranger from foreign parts, maids and matrons went to the inn, and welcomed him with gifts; another, that, when guests arrived at an inn, the hostess, with all her family, went out to meet and receive them, and the guests were required to kiss them all; and this among the English was the same as shaking hands among other nations. "In no region," honestly adds our authority, were we held in such honour as there." Erasmus, who was born the very year that Ssassek returned home, describes a similar custom as prevailing in England in his time, and bestows on it his most decided approbation. "Our long hair," says Ssassek, "was a great astonishment to them; for they declared that they had never seen any who excelled us in the length and beauty of the hair; and they could by no means be made to believe that it was a natural growth, but they said it must have been stuck on with pitch. And whenever any of us, thus long-haired, appeared in public, he had more people to stare at him, than if some strange animal had been ex

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hibited." With regard to the entertainments, the Bohemian merely says, "My lord was kindly and magnificently treated, and all his companions, especially Schasco (Ssassek), both in the royal palace and elsewhere." For further information on these points, we must have recourse to Gabriel Tetzel:

"Once upon a day," says he, "the king ordered us to be bidden to the court. Then the queen went in the morning from childbed to the church, with a splendid procession, with many of the priesthood, who bore the sacred vessels, and many scholars, who chanted, and all bore blazing torches. Thereafter came a great troop of women and virgins, from the country and from London, who had been bidden. Then came a great number of trumpeters, and pipers, and others, players on stringed instruments. Then the king's musicians, about two-and-forty, who sang stately chants. Then about four-and-twenty heralds and pursuivants. Then about sixty earls and knights. After these went the queen. Two dukes preceded. A canopy was borne over her. After her followed her mother, and maidens and women, about sixty. And so she heard an office chanted; and when she had entered the church with the same procession, she returned to her palace. And all who had gone in the procession were bidden to remain to the banquet; and they were seated, women and men, spiritual and temporal, each according to his condition, four great halls full.

"And so they gave my lord and his companions, and the noblest lords, an especial banquet in the hall, and at the tables, where the king was wont to feast with his court; and the king's most powerful earl was commanded to sit at the king's table, in the king's seat, in his stead. And my lord also sat at the same table, two steps lower down, and no one beside sat at that table. And all the honour which was wont to be paid the king, with carving and offering of wine, and presenting of the viands, in all respects as if the king himself were seated there, was done to the earl in the king's stead, and to my lord, with so much splendour, that what was consumed there surpasses belief.

"And while we feasted, the king gave largesse to all the trumpeters, pipers, and players; and to the heralds alone he gave four hundred nobles. And all to whom he had given largesse came to the tables, and proclaimed aloud what the king had given to them. When my lord had now feasted with the earl, he led my lord with all his retinue into a hall, most richly adorned, where was the queen, and she was just about to banquet. And so he placed my lord and his companions in a recess, that he might behold the sumptuousness.

"And so the queen sat down on a costly golden seat, at a table alone. The queen's mother and the king's sister must needs stand far down. And when the queen spoke with her mother, or with the king's sister, they always knelt before her, until the queen took water. And when the first dish had been set before her, then the queen's mother and the king's sister also sat down. And her women and maids, and all who served the queen at table, were all of powerful earls' families, and all must kneel as long as she ate. And she ate nigh three hours, and of many costly viands, which were set before her, and before her mother, and the rest, whereof much might be written; and every one was still, not a word spoken. My lord with his companions stood ever in the recess, and looked on.

"After the banquet, there began a dance. The queen remained sit

ting on her chair. Her mother kneeled before her; at times, she bade her arise. Then the king's sister danced a stately dance with two dukes, and the stately reverences which were made to the queen were such as I have never elsewhere seen paid by such surpassingly beautiful damsels. Among them were eight duchesses, and about thirty countesses, and all the rest the daughters of mighty men. After the dance, the king's musicians were bidden to enter, and were commanded to sing. We also heard them when the king heard mass in his chapel, since my lord and his companions were admitted; and I think that there are no better singers in the world. Then the king permitted us to see his sacred vessels, and many saints who lie in London. And especially we saw a stone which was brought from the Mount of Olives, whereon was a footprint of our Lord; and a girdle and ring of our Lady, and many other sacred things.

"Afterwards, two earls invited my lord with his companions to their house. They gave us an unspeakably costly banquet, about sixty, according to their custom. There we saw the most sumptuous tapestries. Afterwards, my lord invited many earls and gentlemen to his house, and gave them a feast in the Bohemian fashion. They thought it very strange. My lord armed himself, and would fain have jousted with his companions, but the king would not permit it. And so my Lord Leo, Lord Frodner, and Gabriel Tetzel, bestowed all their harness and steeds upon the king, and left all their jousting-gear in England. After this, my lord took leave of the king, and the king paid for my lord at the hostel, and we were there about forty days."

After these festivities in London were over, our pilgrims visited other places in England, under the conduct of a guide whom the king had granted them," that they might see the kingdom." It is impossible to describe the whole journey; but we must copy a few sentences from Gabriel Tetzel's description of their visit to the Duke of Clarence, at Salisbury.

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"He received my lord very joyfully, and paid him great honour and We remained there over Palm Sunday, and beheld there the most splendid procession, how our Lord rode into Jerusalem. And the Duke himself went in the procession, and took my lord with him. After the service, my lord, with his companions, was bidden to a feast at court; and the duke and my lord ate together, and my lord's vassals with the earls and gentlemen. There they gave us an unspeakably costly banquet, and we ate for about three hours; and at the banquet they gave us a dish that should be fish, which was roasted, and formed like a duck. It has his wings, his feathers, his neck, his feet, and layeth eggs, and tasteth like a wild duck. This we were made to eat for a fish, but in my mouth it was flesh; and they say that it should be fish, because it grows first out of a worm in the sea; and when it becomes great, it acquires a form like a duck, and lays eggs; but it never hatches the same eggs, and is not itself produced therefrom, and seeks its food always in the sea, and not on the land. Therefore should it be a fish." These curious birds are also noticed by Ssassek, who says they are produced in the sea, and have no food except the air!

From Salisbury our travellers proceeded to Poole, whence they embarked for Brittany. Here we leave them for the present, reserving for another paper the narrative of their travels through France, Spain and Italy.

(To be continued.)

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