feared, would never consent to such a measure; on which the Raja came down in his request to four and even three lacs, his wish to obtain which last sum Mr. Williams promised to transmit to Government. This, Mr. Williams afterwards told me, is a specimen of the way in which important business was often introduced and discussed in the midst of crowds and ceremonial parties. On my observing that the wish to obtain money did not tally with all which I had heard of the Raja's wealth and covetousness, he answered that the Raja always distinguished his personal savings from the national property; that he expected his daughter to be portioned out by the state; but that if he could get sufficient security, he was able and likely, under a borrowed name, himself to lend the money. While this conversation was going on, I was doing my best to entertain my little friend, to whom, in addition to the present destined for him on account of the Company, I gave a huge native coloured drawing on vellum, of the Howa Mahil at Jyepoor, with which he seemed greatly pleased, and which, by the explanation of the different objects which it contained, afforded more conversation than it would have been otherwise easy for me to keep up with him, though he was really a lively and forward boy. He was fond of riding both horses and elephants, but the " Sircar," Sovereign, (meaning his father) had not yet taken him out hunting. He had begun to read and write in Maharatta, but in no other language, and was fonder of drawing pictures than letters, the same word,

"likna," being used both for drawing and writing. His father, who, engaged as he was on the other side, contrived very dexterously to bestow all necessary attention on me, bid him ask me about my journey, but I do not think he knew any of the names of places which I mentioned, except, perhaps, Calcutta and Delhi. All the rest of the world was, in his vocabulary, "Belattee."

There was a good deal of Persian singing and instrumental music, the character of which does not seem a want of harmony, but dullness and languor. The airs were sung sotto voce; the instruments, chiefly guitars, were low-toned and struck in a monotonous manner; and the effect intended to be produced seemed rather repose and luxurious languor, than any more ardent or animated feeling. One man, a native of Lucknow, had a good natural voice, and two of the women sang prettily. The tunes had first parts only. The Nâch women were, as usual, ugly, huddled up in huge bundles of red petticoats; and their exhibition as dull and insipid to an European taste as could well be conceived. In fact nobody in the room seemed to pay them any attention, all being engaged in conversation, though in an under voice, and only with their near neighbours. About eight the Raja went away; and we sate down to dinner, but not till I had discovered that the greater part of the camels which the Raja had promised to lend me for my journey had not yet arrived, and that it would be impossible for me to send off, as I had intended, my baggage and servants that night. I now regretted that I

had dismissed the Hindoostanee elephants and camels, but there was no use in repining.

March 25.-This morning Dr. Smith and I were up at four o'clock, and, with a good deal of exertion, succeeded in assembling the camels and bearers and fairly setting our servants on their way. We ourselves remained till the evening, and then set off to join the camp. Archdeacon Barnes accompanied me, and Mr. Williams and several other gentlemen rode out with me three or four miles to a boolee, at which I found, to my surprise, that, in addition to the four Bombay troopers whom he had sent me before, we were joined by Bappoojee Maharatta (his Dewan) with six silver sticks and spearmen, and above fifty Guicwar horse, with their standard and nagari. I pleaded that these were really unnecessary, considering the numerous guard of Sepoys, fifty men, whom I had sent on with the baggage. He answered, however, that though less might suffice in Hindostan, here these outward forms were both desireable and necessary! To this I could say nothing, and proceeded on my march; though I could not help thinking that since the days of Thomas a Becket or Cardinal Wolsey, an English Bishop had seldom been so formidably attended. From Mr. Williams I had received in every respect very gratifying attention and kindness; and it was a great satisfaction to me to know that he intended to visit Bombay at the same time with myself, and that my dear wife also would know and like him.

Our road for about eight miles lay over a highly

cultivated country, with many round-topped trees and high green hedges; the villages, which were numerous, were all more in the European than the Indian style; and, to complete the likeness, had large stacks of hay in their neighbourhood piled up and thatched like those in England. The custom of keeping hay as fodder does not exist in any other part of India which I have seen, but is here universal. As day closed we left the open country, and entered some extremely deep and narrow ravines, with sides of crumbling earth, the convexity of which was evidently the work of the waters of the monsoon in their annual course to the Mhye. The summits of these steep banks were overgrown with brushwood; nor could a more favourable place be desired to favour the spring of a tyger, or the arrows of an ambushed band of robbers. numbers, our noise, and the torches which some of the servants carried during this part of our journey, were enough, I should conceive, to keep either description of ferocious animals at a distance. Both kinds, however, are very abundant along the banks of the Mhye and in its neighbourhood; passengers had been very recently stopped and plundered here by Bheels; and two months ago a tyger had carried off a man from a numerous convoy of artillery on its march to Kairah. On the whole, as one of the party observed, " on a road like this, and in such a country, too many guards were better than too few." After about four miles and a half of this kind of road, we arrived on the banks of the Mhye, high, precipitous, and woody,

Our

with a broad bright stream, in spite of all the recent drought, wandering in a still wider bed of gravel and sand. Here toc, I found, that the watchful kindness of Mr. Williams had provided for us, in giving notice of my coming to the collector of the Kairah district, who had sent some fishermen acquainted with the ford, and a body of Bheels in the pay of the police, to assist us in crossing, and guide us to the encampment, which was about three miles further at a village called Wasnud.

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Nothing could be more picturesque than this passage of the Granicus." The moon was sufficiently bright to shew the wild and woodland character of the landscape, and the brightness and ripple of the water, without overpowering the effect of the torches as they issued from the wood, and the other torches which our guides carried, and which shone on groupes of men, horses, and camels, as wild and singular as were ever assembled in the fancy of a Salvator Rosa. I thought of Walter Scott's account of the salmon fishing; but this show exceeded that as much as the naked limbs, platted elf-locks, and loose mantles of the Bheels, with their bows, arrows, and swords, the polished helmets of our regular troopers, the broad, brocaded, swallow-tailed banner of the Guicwar, and the rude, but gorgeous chivalry of his cavaliers on long-tailed horses and in long cotton caftans, their shields behind their backs, their battle axes pendant from their saddle-bows, and long spears or harquebuzes with lighted matches over their shoulders, surpassed the most picturesque assortment of